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Synthetics

AkMudr

AkMudr

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Ok, so I'll be rockin a mild built th350 and 205 plus a new in the crate 14bFF locked. Ive never used synthetics before in my trucks but because I'm puttin some $$ worth of parts into my truck and want the best results I can possibly get...

I want you guys to sell me on the fact that I should/should not use Synthetics and Why. After how many miles from break-in is it recommended to start using it? Also, include some of the brands you recommend for the tranny, case and rear axle.

Not sure if it matters but the tranny has extra cluches and a shift kit, stock rebuild on the 205, 14bFF has a detroit
 
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Don't bother, use the cheap stuff and change it when it gets water in it. Your parts are bombproof, you dont need special oil to make them work.
 
i disagree. i have worked at a gear shop for some time, and i've seen the inside of hundreds of axels, yes regular gear oil if fine, and will work just fine, but does break down. another bad side is that it runs off the parts. i also use, and highly reccomend redline heavy duty shock proof, this stuff is unbeatable and "clings: to the parts and i have yet to see any wear when this is used. now what i mean by regular oil running off and the shock proof redline clinging is this..i'll pull the gears out of a rear end that runs regular gear oil and set it on the bench then i'll pull the gears out of a rear end that runs the redline shock proof and set it on the bench also..then i'll go to lunch and come back in an hour, the gears with regualr oil are now sitting in a puddle of gear oil, all the oil has run off and dripped off of the gears, yet the one with the redline oil might have only a small drop or two on the bench.. for my money and in my opinion the redline heavyduty shockproof synthetic is the only way to go..you can actually get a hole in your diff cover on the trail, have all the flud come out and still drive home just fine, because the gears stay coated, of course i wouldn't reccomed it unless necessary..and the redline isn't that expensive, we sell it for 5 or 6 bucks a bottle..imo well worth it. oh and it a cool redish color:D as for break in..we always run the gears for the first 500 miles on valeoline gear oil, then we have our customers come back and we pull the covers, drain the fulid, inspect everything than reseal and re-fill, at that time if you wanted is when you add the synthetic..it wouldn't hurt to start with synthetic, but the first 500 miles the oil no matter what you use gets dirty and broken down fast, beause the gears no mater what will always run hot at first and till everything is broken in..so its just cheaper to run the first 500 with regular gear oil, then go to synthectic if you choose, we also recommend that you go easy on the gas pedal and don't wheel or tow for the first 1500-2000 miles..just as a precaution, to make sure everything is broken in good and propper.but if your like me, you can put 2000 miles on your rig in no time..and like i said its just a precaution that we reccomend..you technically should be fine after the first 500 miles...we stand behind all of our work, and have never once had a gear job come back..
 
Break in for me will consist of a 4500 miles trip back to alaska with about 500lbs of sh it in the back

P.S. Find me somewhere that sells redline for 5-6$ a bottle? Wont on the internet!
 
well no matter what you use 4500 miles at one time for break in, is definatly not reccomed..summit has it $7.95 jeggs for $7.99..we sell it for $5.99 last time i looked, but hey i don't set the price the onwer does...ask your local gear shops, if your nice odds are they will cut you a deal, we always do..and if your nice to summit they cut you deals too, i've never paid asking price at summit, of course i live about and hour from the reno summit raceing, and always sweet talk the girl behind the counter and always get at least 10 to 20 percent discount..but eaither way, you asked for our opinions and you got mine, do with it what you will, and good luck on that 4500 mile break in, hope you don't fry the gears..not saying you will but there is a reason for the break in period...anything else i can help you with let me know:D
 
Wont be 4500 right off the bat, whatever I rack up between next weeka nd april 15th will be break in :D
 
ah ha! that makes me feel better!:D :D :D just baby it for 500 miles, i know its tempting to get on it..trust me,..but you'll feel better knowing everything is broken in propperly if you baby it for 500 miles
 
I baby my truck as it is :D Which is why I'm addin some beef, so I wont hafta worry about breakin stuff.
 
so what ratio are you gonna use anyways? and what size tires?
 
Will be 4.10's with detroit and 35's right now...they are a good universal ratio, I'll go up to a 38 or so, by then I'll have plenty of power to turn them so I'll be about where I need to as far as rpm range goes. I might step to 4.56's later on.
 
wow 4.10s with 35s, that will work, but if your gonna go to a 38, go at least 4.88s, to be honest at our shop if your running 35s we go to 4.88s, 4.56 with 33s..beleave it or not, 4.88s with 35 inch tires is actually closer to "factory" ratio than 4.56s..its all in the math..the 4.88s are a little over "factory" but 4.56s are farther under factory. i know alot of people don't agree with this, but every person who insisted on not running 4.88s despite our advice, has come back and had us re-gear to 4.88s and are glad that they did..so definatly if you go to a 38, get the 4.88s at least, my k-5 with 35s has 4.88s and i'm so happy that it does..moves up hills on the freeway better, and when off road, crawls slower..i'm very happy with it, and i know some people say, that if you go 4.88s you run a higher rpm, and there for use more gas, but i have found that not to be true, because when i did have the 4.10s in mine, my foot was in it more, to get up the hills and stuff..now with the 4.88s my foot is not always in it. and so there is no real difference in mpg, plus now that i don't have to keep my foot in it, when i do put my foot in it, it gets up and goes....just something to chew on
 
If you don't do alot of mud running or river crossings I would say run synthetic in the 205, 14bff, and front axle. Break in on dyno oil for gears is 500 miles.

I run synthetic in my diffs. I think it is worth it to run synthetic so things wear better. This is as long as you don't contaminate fluids alot from mud or water or whatever. Then it just is a waste of time and is expensive.

Harley
 
Synthetic motor oil would be fine...
But as far as synthetic gear lube goes...I'd use a petroleum based product.

I tried Red line synthetic in my axles...after a couple mud runs...
I pulled my covers to find what looked like a strawberry milkshake.

A buddy of mine has rebuilding axles for over 20 years...he tells me...
He does many rebuild's because of that stuff.

I've been using Torco's RGO 85w-140..GL-6 petroleum based.
It doesn't breakdown like the other oils I've used.

www.torcoracingoils.com

What's nice is...they have FREE shipping.
 
Mainly I chose to stick with 4.10's and the detroit becuase I do alot of hauling year round, and in the winter I'll be rockin my 35's just because I get better traction with them, I can't imagine hauling a 4 place snowmachine trailer with 38's or bigger. Once I put some pep in my motor I won't have any issues. I'm not a crawler, I stick to back woods trails and mud so low crawling doesnt concern me. The places I will be wheelin do have river crossings and alot of water holes but I'll be runnin the breathers high on the firewall with some one way filters.

The 14B I bought is a cucv in the crate with 4.10's, locked...so as of right now its more cost efficient to run it like it is then when I get my 60 in I'll regear. No biggie to me.

I just looked up the Torco website, Ive heard of them but I have never used anythin. A bud I know here mentioned them especially for playin in the mud often. I might give them a shot and fill the rear end and tcase with it, see how it holds up in a wet environment.
 
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I'm in water almost every weekend...so I've put it to the test.
I was surprised after going on 10 mud runs..the oil looked new.

I just changed my oil once all last year.
 
All CUCV 14 bolts have 4.56s and Detroit lockers.

700R4 with 4.10s and 35s will be absolutely gutless. I can say that from experience because I personally ran that setup for about a year. It sucked, even in the flat lands of Illinois, and MPG sucked too because the engine was working its ass off.

4.88s for 35s, I agree.
 
I really do have a CUCV 14B in the crate with 4.10's Detroit and I can take pics. Never been installed, built in '87. I'm not saying there could be some odd circumstance to where I am wrong but it did come from a military auction not too long ago.
 
Where you using the Redline Heavy Shockproof gear oil? If so it should look like a strawberry milkshake when you drop the diff cover. Mine looks like that when I drop the diff cover. When Redline Heavy Shockproof gear oil gets contaminated it turns a nasty green color.

Harley
 
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