t-case drop...

[87 Blue Beast]

ive looked into the "drop brackets" that come with lift kits for the t-case and from what i can tell, they are just box steel that goes between the crossmember, correct? i bought a piece of 1 1/2" x 1 1/2" square tubing to use for that. will it be ok? i also am going to do the same thing for dropping the sway bar, since thats how the lifts come also.

 

[Hogback Fabrication]

ive looked into the "drop brackets" that come with lift kits for the t-case and from what i can tell, they are just box steel that goes between the crossmember, correct? i bought a piece of 1 1/2" x 1 1/2" square tubing to use for that. will it be ok? i also am going to do the same thing for dropping the sway bar, since thats how the lifts come also.

I would say the "spacers" you want to use are ok if they are at least .188" thick.

Why are you dropping the t-case (how much lift, etc.)?

 

[87 Blue Beast]

im in the process of lifting it now. i have the rear lifted already and im starting on the front. its 7" susp. lift. i just want to ease the angle alittle more. btw, the tubing is 3/16" thick, so its plenty thick enough.

 

[Hogback Fabrication]

Dropping the t-case will make your rear driveshaft angle better and your front driveshaft angle worse.

I would find a way to avoid dropping the t-case.

If you have driveline vibrations you will probably have to go to a cv driveshaft in the rear.

 

[85burb4x4]

The square tubing used for the sway bar mount will not work...unless maybe the holes are elongated or ovaled out. My friend had a some left over from his lift kit....he couldn't get them to work on his Blazer and I couldn't get them to work on my Burb. I ended up buying some mounts from ebay...if I remember right they were made by rough country.

 

[87 Blue Beast]

well i made the pieces today and got them on and it works nice. the angles are actually pretty decent (for stock length shafts). i still am going to have them lengthened tho. why wouldnt they work for the sway bar? do you have a pic of the ones that you bought? thanks for the input guys.

 

[gmc4cw]

is this for a blazer? on my shortbed I got away with out dropping the t-case with 8" lift springs. if you have to get your driveshafts lengthened anyways it would be best to run without the spacers. the front shaft angle gets worse as you drop the crossmember.

with the lift you are running you can probably throw away the swaybar and not notice. the springs will be stiff enough. the drop kits help bring it back in line but the geometry is poor to begin with. you springs have shackles at the back because they lengthen when you hit a bump, but the swaybar is affixed solid at both ends. the disconnect kit from ORD will help. I had one, but after you forget to hook it up one time and drive it, you will never hook it up again.

 

[87 Blue Beast]

so your saying it will ride smoother with out the sway bar?

 

[Hogback Fabrication]

so your saying it will ride smoother with out the sway bar?

Yes.

 

[87 Blue Beast]

wow.. interesting. ill most likely ditch it then, thanks