T-case needed

[merndaddy]

My 241 is going out. Burb is my daily driver, not really enough time to rebuild. I'm not having alot of luck finding a reasonable price (is 350+ core reasonable for a used 241?) for a 241 passenger drop for a 700R4. I can probably score a 208 for about 100-300 dollars. Will it bolt right in without yoke mods etc.? If they are both mech speedos, any problems?

 

[Guss]

have a np231 sitting in my garage its yours for $50 plus shipping

 

[orangefj45]

the 231 won't take the load and both it and the 208 would require some mods to run in the burb.


what's wrong with yours?

 

[MaxPF]

My 241 is going out. Burb is my daily driver, not really enough time to rebuild. I'm not having alot of luck finding a reasonable price (is 350+ core reasonable for a used 241?) for a 241 passenger drop for a 700R4.

Hmm. my buddy picked up a good pass. drop 241 (elec. speedo) for $150 w/core. Seems $200 is a pretty good deal around here, with $300 or so being average for salvage yards.

When you say "going out", what exactly is it doing?

 

[merndaddy]

My burb clunks sometimes when I brake to fast, clunks when I first press the gas in Reverse, and the fluid was sparkly with metal flakes when I changed the seal, and I found it empty(prompting me to change the seal).

 

[orangefj45]

i bet it has a broken output shaft snap ring. very common problem and something you can fix with the t-case in the vehicle in about 30 minutes. pull the driveshaft (rear), pull the 4 bolt extrension housing and take a look at the snap ring. chances are it's broken. if so, buy a new one from the dealer and install it. use some silicone on the extension housing after removing all the old silicone, reassemble, fill the t-case with atf the next day (so the silicone has time to set up) and you're back on the road.

 

[kennyw]

If your buying a used tcase it is a rediculous idea you should have to pay a core fee...

 

[merndaddy]

I thought it might be the snap ring too, so that when I drained it to install the Gilly's T-case saver when I noticed the sparkly fluid. I proceeded and the snap ring was intact and it looked like a stout piece.

 

[orangefj45]

bummer.

 

[MaxPF]

My burb clunks sometimes when I brake to fast, clunks when I first press the gas in Reverse, and the fluid was sparkly with metal flakes when I changed the seal, and I found it empty(prompting me to change the seal).

When you say you "found it empty", do you mean the t-case had little or no fluid in it? If so, it is probably junk.

I know you don't want to rebuild your case, but if a driver drop 241 can be had in your area cheap, your best option is to get one and swap all the guts, INCLUDING BEARINGS (or better yet, get new bearings) into your pass. drop case. Before you get a donor case, you should disassemble your case and make sure a bearing didn't sieze and spin in the case. If that happens, your tubed. Then you really have no choice but to get another case.

Transfer cases are easy to neglect, but we should all remember to check the fluid every time we change our oil and change it every 12-15k along with our tranny fluid. Cases with slip yokes are prone to leakage from the yoke seal due to the longitudinal movement of the yoke dragging dirt into the seal and eroding it. That's one of the two good reasons for $#!tcanning the slip yoke and installing an SYE.

 

[merndaddy]

My T'case was almost empty, took a QT and a half. Thanks for the feedback guys. I bought one from orangefj45. I'll open mine up at some point and see what I broke, maybe rebuild it and have a spare.