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t-case questions for a flat belly setup.

muddysub

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I asked in my build thread but the Suburban section doesn't get much traffic so I'll throw it out here too.

I've got a sheet of 1/2" delrin (UHMW) plate for the skid on my suburban. My cross members are only about 1/16" lower than my t-case right now and i'm sure that's not enough room. I'm thinking about adding in some 3/8" flat bar on top of the skid plate to reinforce it anyway, that would leave me with 7/16" between the plate and the case. Is that enough? How much room do you doubler/clocked/flat bellied guys have between your cases and the top side of your skid plates?

Also, with my 5.3/4l80e/clocked NP241 combo, the original brace from the case to the block is no longer an option. There is no where on my new block to mount one if I built a new one either. How necessary are those brace bars? Would running a bar to a bushing'd mount on the frame rail work? I understand that it would need to move with the drive train so running it from the case to the frame might not work. I've got poly competition motor mounts and a poly trans mount so I don't think it'll move around too much but I don't know for sure yet.
 
Interested in this as well, mainly because I don't have my torque rod anymore as well.
 
I have about the same amount of room. But, I don't have a skid on yet. It wont hit anyway. There is a portion of the T-case that is ~3/8" away from the top of my crossmember and I don't see any rub marks etc.

The torque rod helps. When the driveshaft is under power, the splines don't slip as easily, so it tends to yank on the T-case with suspension travel. I have at least one extra rod for a 700/208/241 if anyone needs it, but a lot of guys do in the for sale section too.

MuddySub: it's hard to believe you can't make a rod for your application. I can't imagine why other than no room or weird bell housing. I would rather go to a header bolt than the frame :dunno: Or even an engine mount like the K case rods do. At least it will have side to side flex and move a little with the engine, but when it comes to front to back flex....there wont be any. And that's important :waytogo::waytogo:

Crossmember thread: My junk
http://coloradok5.com/forums/showpost.php?p=3271615&postcount=87


.
 
I have about the same amount of room. But, I don't have a skid on yet. It wont hit anyway. There is a portion of the T-case that is ~3/8" away from the top of my crossmember and I don't see any rub marks etc.

The torque rod helps. When the driveshaft is under power, the splines don't slip as easily, so it tends to yank on the T-case with suspension travel. I have at least one extra rod for a 700/208/241 if anyone needs it, but a lot of guys do in the for sale section too.

MuddySub: it's hard to believe you can't make a rod for your application. I can't imagine why other than no room or weird bell housing. I would rather go to a header bolt than the frame :dunno: Or even an engine mount like the K case rods do. At least it will have side to side flex and move a little with the engine, but when it comes to front to back flex....there wont be any. And that's important :waytogo::waytogo:

Crossmember thread: My junk
http://coloradok5.com/forums/showpost.php?p=3271615&postcount=87


.


I'm gonna look a little closer, maybe I can get creative and come up with something.

I'll go ahead with the 3/8" flat bar and see how it goes.
 
I would provide that 3/8" minimum....with an aluminum trans case, it will be the first thing to give. The engine torques clockwise and if an obstacle pushes up the t/c in the opposite direction....it will break the trans case....mine is still sitting on the bench from a similar endeavor!
 
I would provide that 3/8" minimum....with an aluminum trans case, it will be the first thing to give. The engine torques clockwise and if an obstacle pushes up the t/c in the opposite direction....it will break the trans case....mine is still sitting on the bench from a similar endeavor!


Yeah, that's what I'm afraid of. I think the 1/2" UHMW with 3/8" flat bar on top of it will be solid enough to keep anything from pushing up. I just want to make sure the t-case isn't gonna move enough to hit anything.
 
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