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t-case strut rod

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6.2Blazer

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I have a 6.2/700r4/NP241 Blazer. Removed the t-case the other night and after removing the two large bolts on the t-case to the strut rod just fell off. It was dark so didn't get a chance to look at it but either the bolt that attaches to the bellhousing broke or fell out.

Does the end of the strut rod just bolt directly under one of the bellhousing bolts? No brackets or anything? Anybody have pictures.

I'm guessing it will make sense once I reinstall but was hoping to take a look today and stop by the hardware store if needed on the way home from work.

What size are these bolts?
 
There should be a shouldered 3/8-16 bolt holding it to the bellhousing/block.
 
Thanks for the reply. Unfortunately the bolt is broke off (was hoping it just fell out). The end of the broke bolt is probably flush with the block, so it's recessed in the hole the width of the trans bellhousing. I'll try to get ahold of a right angle drill and some EZ outs and see what happens.......of course broke bolts only occur at locations that are hard to get to:rolleyes:
 
This is mine with 700r4 bolted to a 350, little late but hope it helps.

picture.php
 
Get it done, those aluminum 700r4's don't like the weight of those t-cases

Recently had a buddy suffer from leaving those out/non-functional... The installer was actually DeviousK5

It had stripped a bolt on one side at the engine mounting point, and a bellhousing bolt was left out on the other side (the one pictured above).

He drove it fine for a couple thousand miles after a fresh rebuild, but had never had it off-road before.

The weight of the t-case broke it as soon as he touched a bumpy road, and it started drizzling out. When he put one tire on a rock, it SPLIT that case the rest of the way open and dumped the rest of the fluid. That's when he realized it, got out, and followed the trail of fluid back to a few yards onto the bumpy road, LOL

I recently had a Th350 rebuilt for my Jimmy also. The P.O. had NO t-case struts on it whatsoever, it had a pretty bad crack around the case also

in short, t-case struts are awesome
 
6.2Blazer said:
Thanks for the reply. Unfortunately the bolt is broke off (was hoping it just fell out). The end of the broke bolt is probably flush with the block, so it's recessed in the hole the width of the trans bellhousing. I'll try to get ahold of a right angle drill and some EZ outs and see what happens.......of course broke bolts only occur at locations that are hard to get to:rolleyes:
Click to expand...

This happened to me also. After I removed the starter I was able to get to the bolt. I made a jig from another bolt where I drilled a hole down the middle. I had just enought threads where I could screw in the bolt with the hole I jig. Then I was able to drill a straight hole. After I went in a ways I was able to use a screw extractor. I also used a lot of pb blaster. It took some work but I was able to get the broken bolt out. Now I have a bolt that is extra long. So it it shears again I can gain easier access to the bolt from the frount.
 
6.2Blazer said:
I have a 6.2/700r4/NP241 Blazer. Removed the t-case the other night and after removing the two large bolts on the t-case to the strut rod just fell off. It was dark so didn't get a chance to look at it but either the bolt that attaches to the bellhousing broke or fell out.

Does the end of the strut rod just bolt directly under one of the bellhousing bolts? No brackets or anything? Anybody have pictures.

I'm guessing it will make sense once I reinstall but was hoping to take a look today and stop by the hardware store if needed on the way home from work.

What size are these bolts?
Click to expand...
Is this what you are talking about?
100_0551.jpg


If needed i can get better pictures. That is a th400/208 out of a 6.2 84 suburban.
 
it bolts straight to the bellhousing bolt.

When I replaced mine, my bolt was broken also, it looked to be a normal bolt as only the head was missing it looked like. Very easy to back out after I took the trans out.

My normal bolt hasn't broken yet


If you are taking the t-case off it don't forget to heli coil the 4 holes in the transmission that bolt to the adapter, aluminum does not make good threads
 
That's why when I take the t-case off, I leave the adapter on unless I have to take it off. It seems like more trouble because it's harder to get to the bolts but it's worth it to me not to risk stripping out those threads.
 
I worked on it a little bit last night but it was late, started to rain, and I'm sure the neighbors are not fond of me running an air drill and compressor at night.

I could get a right angle drill in from the back (drill bit pointing towards the front of the truck) and made a jig to center the hole. The trouble is there is another tab on the bellhousing that prevents the drill head from getting too close to the hole.

Sounds like this is a through bolt so you can get to it from the front side after removing the starter. Couldn't tell for sure last night.

I'm not going to worry about it too much for now as I have a wheeling trip this weekend. It's obvious the bolt has been broke for awhile and the truck has seen many hard trails in that time.
 
The other bolt must be holding it tight enough to keep it in place enough to do its job. I know one of mine got loose for some reason, but not enough for the rod to fall off. I think that's why your's broke possibly. Maybe you should use some blue Loctite when you put the new one back in.
 
6.2Blazer said:
Sounds like this is a through bolt so you can get to it from the front side after removing the starter. Couldn't tell for sure last night.
Click to expand...

Yes the bolt does run through. At least on a 350 not sure about 6.2. I had to remove the starter and used the jig I made to center the drill on the bolt. This allowed me to get an screw extractor on the bolt.
 
andyblack said:
The other bolt must be holding it tight enough to keep it in place enough to do its job. I know one of mine got loose for some reason, but not enough for the rod to fall off. I think that's why your's broke possibly. Maybe you should use some blue Loctite when you put the new one back in.
Click to expand...

Not sure what you are talking about. There is only one bolt attaching it to the bellhousing and it was broke. The two on the t-case were still tight and required a cheater bar to break them loose.
 
Also I have the factory assembly manual. It calls for a washer that goes between the strut rod and block.

So it is bolt-strut rod -washer - block. I used grade 8 bolts and got one longer so part of it stuck out the back in the event the bolt is sheared again. Next time I can just use some pliers and back the bolt out from the starter area.
 
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