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Tach Wiring

aglinks

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I know where to run the signal wire for the tach, I found a ton of threads on that topic. My question is for power and light. Which wires do I tap? Is there a good write-up or diagram with pictures to follow?
 
I know where to run the signal wire for the tach, I found a ton of threads on that topic. My question is for power and light. Which wires do I tap? Is there a good write-up or diagram with pictures to follow?

No tapping!

1981(? blade fuse designs)+ have accessory terminals on the fuse panel. You can use a spade connector in them, or go to the wrecking yard and find proper locking connector if you really want. Run the ground to the bus bar on the left side of dash...remove cluster, look left.
 
I wish I could find a source for those new.

You said that on purpose didn't you? :rotfl:

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/aww-500429

I wouldn't go that route, as with every kit there is probably one or two of what you need (they are keyed based on ignition 12V, battery 12V, etc), and 20 of what you don't. Waytek or Mouser probably have them buried in their inventory somewhere, but I have no idea who makes/made those connectors. Even the terminals are not a design I've seen used anywhere else.
 
And I can use a spade connector for the gauge light as well? What about the dimmer?
 
The fuse box has a spot labeled "LPS" for adding an illuminated gauge for the light in it,the light switch will dim a bulb hooked to that tap..
Christ! How did I not know this? :doah:
 
The kit I showed from Summit appears to have the piggyback plugs (the clear ones) but it's kind of hard to tell...and without looking at the fuse panel wiring diagram, you don't really know how (or if) the accessory terminals are fused. I believe some/all of the accessory terminals are run off the breakers on the panel, which I want to say are 30A. You could exceed that by running too many items off the panel, or it simply might not trip before it harms your component.

If there is an intent to run additional accessories in the future, and they add up fast (USB power ports, additional lighting, electric fans, etc), it may be wise to consider investing in something like the Eaton Bussman 15xxx series up front instead of the fuse panel taps. For~ $50 you would have everything needed to add nearly as many circuits as you'd ever conceivably need.
 
I actually found that LPS tap by accident...
I was installing a radio and needed a 12V power source that was hot with the key off (for the "memory")--I probed around with my test light and found that empty LPS tap in the fuse box..and I hooked it up there..

All was good until I decided to dim the dash lights one night...the radio lost all its pre-sets and I was stumped,until I found out that tap is controlled by the headlamp switch..
Note-far as I know,the square body trucks are the only ones that have that tap in the fuse box..I'm not very familiar with the "newer" trucks..
 
Should there be something already plugged into the LPS tap? Because my truck definitely does have. And the truck was unmolested when I got it.
 
It could be GM used it for some accessory, or some years had it used for something related to the dash cluster --on my trucks that tap happened to be empty and un-used..
You can get piggy-back solderless terminals that allow you to plug two female connectors on two wires to a single fuse box spade connector..piggy back connector.jpg
 
I plumbed the transmission sender to the port on the drivers side of the transmission. Does anyone have experience using this port? What should the temperature ranges be at this point? I found a lot of different results from my searches but most people didn't have the sender installed in this factory port.
 
I'd let Greg Ducato advise you on that question...
That port,if it had a pipe plug in it,might be a pressure test port,and I'm unsure if a sending unit will withstand the amount of pressure available there--hape to have it go "pop" and dump all the fluid out,or spray it on the hot exhaust..
 

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