My tailgate window goes up and down very very slowly, with most of the time I have to help it go ... not sure if it's the regulatir or the motor any help as far as which one it is and or help to get the job done in example utube, websites of that nature would be appreciated thx
CK5
Register an account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members.
Tail gate window...
- Thread starter 79jenny
- Start date
You might need to adjust the strikers to align with the top, or loosen the bolts on the top, unless you have the locating pin still then it should be in the right place
Not sure how to align it properly. I guess I will have to trial and error. Makes me want to take it to a good body shop and let them deal with it. I'd rather not have to add a long/thick battery wire all the way from the battery plus a relay to solve this unless I really have to. It worked fine before with the old tailgate and same glass. I could try a freshly charged 1000ca battery 2 feet away with thick leads to see if it makes a difference.
They do have felts in them and the window slides freely inside the channels when not connected to the regulator. The bottom glass channel never came off the old window and the window installed the correct way with the slight curve it has. I may try direct battery first to see if needs the relay. Not against a relay, just want to make sure its not something else first before going down that path.
I have not adjusted the strikers but maybe I should leave them loose for now to see if it helps with the window binding. The top has locating pins.
Appreciate all the advice!
Since we are on the subject of a relay for this, here is decent video showing what's involved if you DIY. I know there's a few good kits out there too.
Sometimes I find the complete relay harness kits for lighting that sell for $13 work great and come with heavy gauge wiring. You maybe have to move the wires around on the relay since these were meant to be used with off-road lights. Would cost me more just in wire and relay if I bought it separately. Then I I just cut what I don't need like the switch.
Sometimes I find the complete relay harness kits for lighting that sell for $13 work great and come with heavy gauge wiring. You maybe have to move the wires around on the relay since these were meant to be used with off-road lights. Would cost me more just in wire and relay if I bought it separately. Then I I just cut what I don't need like the switch.
I'd stay away from running the strikers loose. You can loosen them up and see how badly the tailgate flops around just pushing and pulling on it. If bad enough, the glass will be trying to hold the tailgate in place.
I can't be certain but this could also be a contributing factor as to why the gates tend to crack at the top edges.
The most important thing about relays is the power wire. Simple research on voltage drop will tell you that 10awg not 10g wire is needed for the 20a draw. Most of these motors are choked to around 9v with the drop in the factory harness.
Found this TSB on this issue:
CHEVROLET NUMBER: 87-T-51
SECTION: 10 - Body Section
DATE: January, 1987
SUBJECT: TAILGATE WINDOW ALIGNMENT
MODELS: 1984-1987 C/K-R/V JIMMY/BLAZER
Some 1984-1987 C/K - R/V Jimmy/Blazer models equipped with a power tailgate window may experience a tailgate window that operates slowly or does not fully return to its upward or closed position. This condition can be caused by misalignment of the rear tailgate window, cable, guide pins, sash assembly, regulator assembly or the tailgate. The following checks and adjustments should be used to correct this condition.
1. Battery Condition - Check the charge of the battery while the engine is running and also when the engine is stopped. A low battery charge can cause the window to move slowly.
2. Rubber Wedge - Some models have a rubber wedge (5" long) installed at the base of the roof housing between the window track and the glass run seal. If equipped with the wedge, remove it and glue the glass run seal to the roof using weather strip adhesive (P/N 12345097) or equivalent (see Figure No. 1).
3. Cable Assembly - The cable assembly should not interfere with the movement of the window. The cable should run below the lower window stop and through the holding tab (clip) mounted on the tailgate (see Figures No. 2 and 3). Any tight bends in the cable will reduce the power transferred to the regulator assembly.
4. Window Regulator - Check window regulator and left regulator arm for any binding (see Figure No. 4). Marks will be visible where the regulator arm and sash have contacted. If left regulator arm is catching on the window sash, carefully bend regulator arm as required. Check the meshing of the regulator teeth. An overly tight meshing will cause unnecessary binding and the regulator assembly should be replaced.
5. Window and Sash Assembly - Remove glass and sash assembly for inspection. This can be accomplished by removing the four bolts that connect the sash assembly to the regulator arms.
- If sash is not centered on glass, remove the sash and center it on the glass assembly (see Figure No. 5).
- Remove any excess sash filler at the ends of the sash assembly.
- Check the angle of the sash channel guides to ensure they follow the curvature of the glass and sash channel (see Figure No. 6). If adjustment is required, carefully bend the guides to the same curvature as the glass and sash channel. Ensure that the guides travel through the channel smoothly.
6. Tailgate Glass - Check curvature of the tailgate window. Lay straight edge on glass and observe the clearance between straight edge and glass at center of window (see Figure No. 7). If clearance exceeds 1/4 of an inch replace the glass.
7. Ground Strap - Install a ground strap (12 gauge wire) from the tailgate to the frame. Attachment can be made from one of the tailgate hinge bolts to one of the holes in the rear frame crossmember. Use a star washer with each bolt to provide good metal to metal contact. Make sure the ground strap does not become kinked when the tailgate is closed. Ensure that the motor is grounded properly to the tailgate. This can be accomplished by replacing one of the window regulator motor bolts with a zinc chromate coated bolt, P/N 9419004.
8. Tailgate Fit To Body - Check flushness and height of tailgate to the rear quarter panels. If the top of the tailgate is misaligned (in or out), loosen the strikers on the inside of the rear quarter panels and adjust accordingly. If alignment (in or out) is off on the bottom of the tailgate, loosen hinges and adjust as required.
9. Window Centering - Loosen the two channel adjusting bolts on each side of the tailgate (see Figure No. 8). Close tailgate and run window up and down. Open tailgate enough to access the adjustment bolts and tighten.
Associated images:
CHEVROLET NUMBER: 87-T-51
SECTION: 10 - Body Section
DATE: January, 1987
SUBJECT: TAILGATE WINDOW ALIGNMENT
MODELS: 1984-1987 C/K-R/V JIMMY/BLAZER
Some 1984-1987 C/K - R/V Jimmy/Blazer models equipped with a power tailgate window may experience a tailgate window that operates slowly or does not fully return to its upward or closed position. This condition can be caused by misalignment of the rear tailgate window, cable, guide pins, sash assembly, regulator assembly or the tailgate. The following checks and adjustments should be used to correct this condition.
1. Battery Condition - Check the charge of the battery while the engine is running and also when the engine is stopped. A low battery charge can cause the window to move slowly.
2. Rubber Wedge - Some models have a rubber wedge (5" long) installed at the base of the roof housing between the window track and the glass run seal. If equipped with the wedge, remove it and glue the glass run seal to the roof using weather strip adhesive (P/N 12345097) or equivalent (see Figure No. 1).
3. Cable Assembly - The cable assembly should not interfere with the movement of the window. The cable should run below the lower window stop and through the holding tab (clip) mounted on the tailgate (see Figures No. 2 and 3). Any tight bends in the cable will reduce the power transferred to the regulator assembly.
4. Window Regulator - Check window regulator and left regulator arm for any binding (see Figure No. 4). Marks will be visible where the regulator arm and sash have contacted. If left regulator arm is catching on the window sash, carefully bend regulator arm as required. Check the meshing of the regulator teeth. An overly tight meshing will cause unnecessary binding and the regulator assembly should be replaced.
5. Window and Sash Assembly - Remove glass and sash assembly for inspection. This can be accomplished by removing the four bolts that connect the sash assembly to the regulator arms.
- If sash is not centered on glass, remove the sash and center it on the glass assembly (see Figure No. 5).
- Remove any excess sash filler at the ends of the sash assembly.
- Check the angle of the sash channel guides to ensure they follow the curvature of the glass and sash channel (see Figure No. 6). If adjustment is required, carefully bend the guides to the same curvature as the glass and sash channel. Ensure that the guides travel through the channel smoothly.
6. Tailgate Glass - Check curvature of the tailgate window. Lay straight edge on glass and observe the clearance between straight edge and glass at center of window (see Figure No. 7). If clearance exceeds 1/4 of an inch replace the glass.
7. Ground Strap - Install a ground strap (12 gauge wire) from the tailgate to the frame. Attachment can be made from one of the tailgate hinge bolts to one of the holes in the rear frame crossmember. Use a star washer with each bolt to provide good metal to metal contact. Make sure the ground strap does not become kinked when the tailgate is closed. Ensure that the motor is grounded properly to the tailgate. This can be accomplished by replacing one of the window regulator motor bolts with a zinc chromate coated bolt, P/N 9419004.
8. Tailgate Fit To Body - Check flushness and height of tailgate to the rear quarter panels. If the top of the tailgate is misaligned (in or out), loosen the strikers on the inside of the rear quarter panels and adjust accordingly. If alignment (in or out) is off on the bottom of the tailgate, loosen hinges and adjust as required.
9. Window Centering - Loosen the two channel adjusting bolts on each side of the tailgate (see Figure No. 8). Close tailgate and run window up and down. Open tailgate enough to access the adjustment bolts and tighten.
Associated images:
All high amp alternators have a built in internal regulator or in some cases external regulator like my high amp Wranger and also most older cars. Who's ever telling you this should stop giving advice.
Not true as it is internally regulated, as Shawn posted.
More info here on high output alternators.
autopartsu.com
A vehicle comes with a stock alternator from the factory to meet the basic electrical needs of a vehicle. Even though the vehicle comes with a stock alternator that can fulfill the basic needs of the car such as supplying power for the lights and sound system. However, since the vehicles today are highly upgraded a great alternative to a standard alternator for supplying amps is high output alternator.
A high output alternator is a perfect way to upgrade modern vehicles. A modern vehicle is different from traditional vehicle since it can require higher electrical supply for, power windows, modern seats with heating and cooling systems, power gates, ignition systems, compressors, navigation systems and more. A high output alternator provides higher amperage output to a vehicle, improving their performance. This article discusses the different types of high output alternators, their functions, how they work and how to prevent them from going bad. To find out more about high output alternators please read below:
A high output alternator functions by providing the required amps. A high output alternator is can be used in case of alternator failure. Alternators run on the basis of load on the charging system, so higher the amps required, more the pressure on the charging system and higher the operating temperature of an alternator would be. A high output alternator is recommended in case additional accessories are added to a vehicle because the stock alternator might not be able to handle the demand of higher amp and voltage that are required to run additional accessories.
In order to find out more about the types of high output alternators please read below:
High Output Alternator Required for Audio
Based on our needs of sound systems the requirement for output changes therefore special high output alternators are designed to run different audio systems in a car. As a cars sound system is upgraded and audio output increases the requirement for energy to run the sound output also increases. For example typically 16 amps are required to run around 100 watts of audio, so if a vehicle has a 100 watt amplifier the traditional alternator can produce the electrical energy of 16 amps, but if a vehicle has an amplifier of more than 100 watts then a high output alternator will be required to run the function.
High Output Alternator Required for Applications
Some vehicles are upgraded to run more applications e.g. vehicles that don’t come with electric doors and windows would require a high output alternator if the windows are upgraded to electric from manual. If lights of a car are upgraded and additional lights are added i.e. emergency lights for police cars then a high output alternator would be required.
Thus, high output alternators designed to run applications are designed to run any applications that require more amperage than the stock alternator can provide. Dynamo generators and OEM alternators are two examples of alternators designed to provide the additional electric power required by a vehicle.
An alternator needs to have a wiring harness to handle the alternator output and different amp alternators to generate high electric output.
The most common instance of an alternator going bad is bearing failure because of accumulation of dirt in the alternator which halts the function of an alternator and causes damage because of overheating.
How Does A High Output Alternator Work? - Auto Parts Replacement, Reviews, Automotive Repair - AutoPartsU.com
A high-output alternator should be used if you want to upgrade your vehicle and it requires higher electrical output from the vehicle.
autopartsu.com
A vehicle comes with a stock alternator from the factory to meet the basic electrical needs of a vehicle. Even though the vehicle comes with a stock alternator that can fulfill the basic needs of the car such as supplying power for the lights and sound system. However, since the vehicles today are highly upgraded a great alternative to a standard alternator for supplying amps is high output alternator.
A high output alternator is a perfect way to upgrade modern vehicles. A modern vehicle is different from traditional vehicle since it can require higher electrical supply for, power windows, modern seats with heating and cooling systems, power gates, ignition systems, compressors, navigation systems and more. A high output alternator provides higher amperage output to a vehicle, improving their performance. This article discusses the different types of high output alternators, their functions, how they work and how to prevent them from going bad. To find out more about high output alternators please read below:
HOW DOES AN ALTERNATOR WORK
A high output alternator is generally used to increase the amperage within the electrical system. When an alternator is not turning quickly, the output could be reduced hence not keeping up with the demands of a charging system. In such a case battery has to make up for providing the amps, that’s why reserve of the battery is considered like a deposit account that saves power. The amps stored in a battery’s reserve capacity then provide the amps when electrical load exceeds the charging system output. However, this could affect the power of the battery negatively and put pressure on the battery. Therefore, a high output alternator is recommended to save the battery’s power and provide the required electrical output and amps to a vehicle. When a high output alternator is used, amps are supplied back to the battery when the vehicle is used, and with a high output alternator charging systems are able to generate more amps and supply vehicle with the amps required to keep the vehicle running.A high output alternator functions by providing the required amps. A high output alternator is can be used in case of alternator failure. Alternators run on the basis of load on the charging system, so higher the amps required, more the pressure on the charging system and higher the operating temperature of an alternator would be. A high output alternator is recommended in case additional accessories are added to a vehicle because the stock alternator might not be able to handle the demand of higher amp and voltage that are required to run additional accessories.
In order to find out more about the types of high output alternators please read below:
TYPES OF HIGH OUTPUT ALTERNATORS
A basic alternator that is traditionally installed in the vehicles provides power for basic functions such as ignition, starting the engine, audio, and lights etc. However, traditional alternators can only run for a few minutes under extreme load and can be damaged due to overheating. In order to avoid alternator damage due to overheating, high output alternators are designed. There are different types of high output alternators depending on the type of car, power requirements and the functions of the car. The three basic types of high output alternators are high output alternator required for audio and high output alternator required for running applications, and the high output alternators for all functions.SPECIAL DESIGNED ALTERNATORS
Specialty designed alternators are designed to provide power to all applications and systems of a car without being overheated. Companies such as Leece-Neville and Neihoff design high output alternators that can supply amps for all functions of a car without exceeding the temperature limit and being damaged. Choosing a specialty designed alternator depends on the type of car you have and the functions you want to perform. Therefore, different companies design different types of specialty designed alternators according to exact amps required by a car.High Output Alternator Required for Audio
Based on our needs of sound systems the requirement for output changes therefore special high output alternators are designed to run different audio systems in a car. As a cars sound system is upgraded and audio output increases the requirement for energy to run the sound output also increases. For example typically 16 amps are required to run around 100 watts of audio, so if a vehicle has a 100 watt amplifier the traditional alternator can produce the electrical energy of 16 amps, but if a vehicle has an amplifier of more than 100 watts then a high output alternator will be required to run the function.
High Output Alternator Required for Applications
Some vehicles are upgraded to run more applications e.g. vehicles that don’t come with electric doors and windows would require a high output alternator if the windows are upgraded to electric from manual. If lights of a car are upgraded and additional lights are added i.e. emergency lights for police cars then a high output alternator would be required.
Thus, high output alternators designed to run applications are designed to run any applications that require more amperage than the stock alternator can provide. Dynamo generators and OEM alternators are two examples of alternators designed to provide the additional electric power required by a vehicle.
WHAT ARE THE PARTS OF AN ALTERNATOR AND THEIR FUNCTIONS?
High output alternators are designed to achieve high output functions, therefore, they are designed with heavy-duty diodes in order to produce and handle large currents and heat. The different part of a high output alternator would be its diodes, wires for producing electric current and heat resistant parts in order to increase their durability. In addition, some high output alternators also contain chrome-plated compartments in order to increase their resistance to harsh conditions.An alternator needs to have a wiring harness to handle the alternator output and different amp alternators to generate high electric output.
HOW DOES AN ALTERNATOR GO BAD?
An alternator goes bad when it’s used in extreme conditions and needs to produce higher amperage than it can handle. In order to prevent an alternator failure, it is important to know the output capacity of an alternator and upgrade the alternator when the amps requirement of vehicle increase due to up-gradation. The picture in the above section shows the different parts of alternators, the cooling fan, finger poles rotors, slip rings, and bearings. An alternator goes bad if one of the parts stop working.The most common instance of an alternator going bad is bearing failure because of accumulation of dirt in the alternator which halts the function of an alternator and causes damage because of overheating.
CONCLUSION
A high output alternator should be used if you want to upgrade your vehicle and the upgrade requires higher electrical output from the vehicle. The type of alternator you should purchase depends on the type of upgrade and the function an alternator is required to perform. It is important to check an alternator regularly in order to assess whether it’s functioning properly or if it needs to be changed. Generally, loud noises from a vehicle, dim lights, or sound system not functioning properly can be linked to an alternator failure, because these things happen when an alternator stops functioning properly. Therefore, check regularly if the alternator is performing its duties properly and change the alternator if it’s not functioning properly.The rear window in the video is a brand new tinted window all felts and seals are new. Same with the front windows on my truck. Relays allow the window to travel 6 seconds faster up and down. This is without the truck running. With the truck running they are much faster because the full voltage gets to the motors. After installing these and sharing the video I hot so many questions I decided to sell them .
Last edited:
mrwilliamsburg33
1/2 ton status
Did you ever get this to work out?
I was wondering if anyone had the factory wiring diagram for the truck that shows the tailgate wiring too.
I like the relay idea. Being in the electrical field, that makes a lot more sense than what the factory design was.
I need to install an entire new tailgate on my blazer so I've been searching around on here for tips. This is a good thread for sure.
I was wondering if anyone had the factory wiring diagram for the truck that shows the tailgate wiring too.
I like the relay idea. Being in the electrical field, that makes a lot more sense than what the factory design was.
I need to install an entire new tailgate on my blazer so I've been searching around on here for tips. This is a good thread for sure.
We don't use the factory wiring at all anymore. We just run a heavy power back and the 2 switch leads. I have found on the last few trucks this makes things much cleaner. Simply run the leadt through the cab and out through the rear post behind the taillights.
JDJ2810
Registered Member
Makes perfect sense.
