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Tailgate window HELP!!....again!

AZShooter

AZShooter

1/2 ton status
Joined
Jul 26, 2012
Posts
243
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Location
Tempe, Arizona
All,

This tailgate window is killing me.

Here's the scoop. The window was acting slower and slower until it finally died. God FORBID the weather was even slightly cold...and yes, cold for Phoenix....the darned thing wouldn't work at all.

After much research I decided to replace all the components, including the motor. I had it all professionally put back in and......still slow. Slower than ever. Now it really doesn't even work when it is warm. Frustrating....:chainsaw:

So....the parts aren't bad, replaced them all. When we connected the cable to a Makita drill, the window operated perfectly.....also, when there was a direct connect to the DC Motor, the window operated very slowly....we have gone through 3 motors now with no improvement. :doah:

The only thing I can think of is either...

1) Try to find a way to amp up the voltage on the DC current to the motor giving her more power or... Can this be done somehow?

2) Convert the entire system to manual crank. Can this be done on an '87 K5? Does anyone have a .pdf of the FSM or know what parts I need for the conversion?

Has anyone out there had this issue? This is primarily a hunting vehicle and the back window is essential to the operation of the vehicle in the field. Any thoughts? Please help! :dunno:

Thank you.
 
Have you tried running a dedicated ground wire from the motor casing to the frame? And make sure if you do this that the wire is connected to good clean metal and has dielectric grease on it. The only ground path to the motor is through the hinges/latches and if those have any rust or corrosion then your ground path has a lot of resistance.
 
There's always the chance that parts store motors aren't as good as the original, but they should at least work when new. You can get to the bottom of this with voltage measurements and find out where the voltage drop is coming from (of course the whole circuit to the motor must be complete when testing as the voltage drops go away with no load). If you use really small wire (like magnet wire), you can fit it even in the sealed connectors under the tailgate to measure there. Some key places to look:
-The safety switch located in the tailgate at the DS latch
-The switch in the dash may need to be cleaned/rebuilt
-Connectors under the tailgate may be corroded
-Damage to the wires somewhere under the frame or in the tailgate
-Ground from tailgate to frame/body might be marginal

You could also confirm that the motor is good by putting another battery back there and connecting it directly to the motor. The motor case is ground (common) and one connector pin is hot for each direction.
 
Changing to a manual crank is pretty easy. Remove the electric regulator, motor, and lock escutcheon plate. Get a manual regulator and hand crank assembly. If you want it to lock you will need the lock mechanism.

I am willing to bet your window felts are bad. Your bottom sash might also be bad or be in need of lube where the wheels for the regulator travel. The drill runs the window fine because it is geared lower to have more torque than your lift motor. Remove the regulator and see how easy the window moves in the side channels/felts. I've had these rust to the point they bind the window or twist out of shape making the window bind. Did you also replace the whole regulator? If direct current from a test battery doesn't help that normally leads to a mechanical problem. Use jumpers from the test battery to both the hot lead and ground. Make sure the test battery is fully charged.

A way I test for a bad ground is to use a 12volt test light. I hook the spring clip to positive then ground the pointed tip on the motor. When the switch is operated for the window the light will go very dim or even out when the ground is bad. Some bad grounds only show up when under high amperage load.

Just some ideas.
 
All,

Had family in this weekend and haven't had time to get to the project for a couple of days. We will try these suggestions...THANK YOU! I will report back on the findings.

Thanks again and Happy New Year!
 
UPDATE!!!!

Tried all the suggestions on the diagnosis. Could not get the power I needed to operate the window.....very frustrating.

Finally, made the move to switch to manual operation and stop screwing with it.

WOW!! What a difference!! The parts were not super easy to get, but once installed you can crank that thing with one finger. Why the HELL had I spent so much time on the electric motor? :doah:

The downside is I now need a 3rd key on the keychain, but the UPSIDE is I can use my rear window, running or not, in any weather while hunting.

Here's the message.....

If you are having issues with the K5...super-over-engineered rear window apparatus, switch to manual and save the $$$$ and headache! You'll be VERY glad you did. That's my $.02 anyway.
 
Where did you get all of your parts for it IV been contemplating doing this with mine for a while. The power window is such a hassle and I like the idea of being able to use it without turning the truck on.
 
Uh, key switch works without the truck on. Well, at least theoretically. If its like mine, it can use some help.

Personally, up here, I like being able to control the rear window from inside the cab so I can get a bit of ventilation going to defrost/dehumidify the rear window.

But can totally see why the frustration of the power rear window would drive someone to ditch it.
 
Theres that too, I like being able to open it while driving and stuff like that, I wonder if I could have a crank AND electric? Because my outside key switch doesn't work at all.
 
K5Titan83 said:
Where did you get all of your parts for it IV been contemplating doing this with mine for a while. The power window is such a hassle and I like the idea of being able to use it without turning the truck on.
Click to expand...

All you really need is the manual handle, lock and manual regulator. Frankly, you can leave the motor in place in case you want to switch back to electric some day. We managed to find some parts in a Tucson salvage yard and some in Florida off Ebay. All used. The regulator is still manufactured, but the rest of it is a bit difficult for 2 reasons. 1) I don't think they make that lock anymore and 2) there weren't as many manuals ordered from the factory. Not a difficult conversion, really...just have to find the parts.

I very much liked driving with the rear cracked a bit and the ability of dash control for ventilation. That being said, this is primarily a hunting/outdoor vehicle and the rear window in these rigs is absolutely ESSENTIAL to the operation of the tailgate. Frankly, the darned thing HAS to work. This was the best way for me to guarantee its operation every time. Now, a 3 year old could operate that thing. It's awesome and highly recommended.
 
Okay that sounds good IL look into it and I know it has to work haha right now it won't work regulator cable broke thank god I managed to get up rolled up haha ins an inconvenience having to crawl through cab to get to the back haha
 
Here's an article to help any future people who may be looking for info...

http://coloradok5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=296615

Even after writing this article and getting my electric window to work great (most of the time), it would still refuse to operate on really cold days. I recently swapped out the power guts for manual and it works EVERY TIME. I sourced my stuff from a manual tailgate Suburban (rare in itself as most were barn doors), the gate is different but the internals are the same.
 
496truck said:
Here's an article to help any future people who may be looking for info...

http://coloradok5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=296615

Even after writing this article and getting my electric window to work great (most of the time), it would still refuse to operate on really cold days. I recently swapped out the power guts for manual and it works EVERY TIME. I sourced my stuff from a manual tailgate Suburban (rare in itself as most were barn doors), the gate is different but the internals are the same.
Click to expand...

Thanks, 496! Quick question, now that I have a manual...... like a noob, I carry 3 keys, 1 for the door, 1 for the engine and 1 for the manual crank. The key seems to be slightly different. Did you run into the same thing?
 
I don't have a key for the t-gate lock, didn't come with one. I honestly don't lock my truck.... ever, so I never worried about it. :dunno:
 
496truck said:
I don't have a key for the t-gate lock, didn't come with one. I honestly don't lock my truck.... ever, so I never worried about it. :dunno:
Click to expand...

Must be nice. I live in the Phoenix area and am only 2.5 hours from the border. Older Chevy trucks are like candy down here.
 
I don't lock my truck either. I secure my truck with my .45 and .223.:D Even though MA is the land of the liberals, the thieves know where they can and can't successfully steal. We have backhoes shovels, and other stuff out in the suburbs! LOL
 
Massboy said:
I don't lock my truck either. I secure my truck with my .45 and .223.:D Even though MA is the land of the liberals, the thieves know where they can and can't successfully steal. We have backhoes shovels, and other stuff out in the suburbs! LOL
Click to expand...

HAHA I love it! :D:waytogo: I'm with ya!
 
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