It is fresh paint. I will make sure I am grounded.
CK5
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Tailgate window issues
- Thread starter MrTruck805
- Start date
By the way... I re-greased the gears, sprayed kroil on the rusty parts, disassembled and reassembled everything I could, and the widow is working well with good motor strength. 
rampage
3/4 ton status
Good to hear.By the way... I re-greased the gears, sprayed kroil on the rusty parts, disassembled and reassembled everything I could, and the widow is working well with good motor strength.
Thanks for the update.
ChiefBeck
Registered Member
I just bought my 89 and diving in. Gotta get the rear window to go up. Motors good, transmission is loose, getting a new cable (wont turn freely) How do I get the switch on the dash out without breaking it? Switch engages motor when pushed to the right, but not to the left even when cable is unscrewed from motor. I'd greatly appreciate some help.
rampage
3/4 ton status
It's been years since I've had my gate apart so probably not much help. I think there are a couple clips on the dash switch on the backside you need to push in. Does the window work with the key on the outside of the gate? Is right up or down - don't feel like going out to my truck right now and checking. If memory serves correctly, if the safety switch inside the tailgate isn't working correctly then it won't allow the window to roll up from the dash, it's notorious for failing. This switch is to prevent you from rolling the window up if the gate isn't completely closed. Remove the screws on the driver's side latch on the tailgate and check it with a multimeter.
I've been messing with my 89 tailgate for 25yrs and it's still just tolerable. I've done regulator, motor, channels, etc.
What I discovered was that an exhaust hanger welded to the frame had compromised the insulation and allowed corrosion to happen. I replaced the wiring with 10ga to the firewall. I added a relay to remove any voltage drop across the 30yo dash switch. (Thanks Fordum for the wiring help I got reading another post.) I ran a dedicated 10g ground from the motor to the frame and I refreshed all existing grounds, contacts, etc. I cleaned the tailgate switch but did not replace the orange (?) power wire.
Silicone lube on the channels just to repeat everyone else. Don't work on it when you're pissed at it. My tailgate has provided me plenty of opportunity to expand the creative part of my extensive cuss word vocabulary.
What I discovered was that an exhaust hanger welded to the frame had compromised the insulation and allowed corrosion to happen. I replaced the wiring with 10ga to the firewall. I added a relay to remove any voltage drop across the 30yo dash switch. (Thanks Fordum for the wiring help I got reading another post.) I ran a dedicated 10g ground from the motor to the frame and I refreshed all existing grounds, contacts, etc. I cleaned the tailgate switch but did not replace the orange (?) power wire.
Silicone lube on the channels just to repeat everyone else. Don't work on it when you're pissed at it. My tailgate has provided me plenty of opportunity to expand the creative part of my extensive cuss word vocabulary.
rampage
3/4 ton status
ChiefBeck
Registered Member
I've gotten all of the mechanical parts fixed, I think. Replaced the cable and that got everything moving. Thank you. I'm still having issues with the safety switch. I can roll the window down, but it won't go up. Took the DS latch screws off, but cannot get the latch off. Don't want to break the cross cable to the handle mechanism...it seems to be riveted. How do I fish the latch out to clean the safety switch without breaking something I can't replace? Also, is there any good places besides LMC, Motor City K5, Classic Industries, Dorman to get hard to find parts? I'm new to this build, and find that I'm going to need all the help I can get. Thank you, Rampage.Yes, the safety switch is on the driver’s side. TY @Blue85. Fixed it.
It sounds like you need to do some maintenance on the window first so it operates more freely. Things to check are: the track on the window where the rollers are - the grease turns solid after many years so clean it out and re-grease, I used marine bearing grease I had laying around. Check the rollers for flat spots and that they actually roll freely. Window guides - make sure they not binding the window and need adjustment. If the felt is worn then replace them. How about the felts that are in the hard top - check their condition and clean if dirty. Run a dedicated heavy gauge ground wire from the motor case to a bare metal spot on the frame. The way it’s grounded from the factory is terrible. The motor grounds through the tailgate hinges so if there’s any rust/corrosion between the hinges and tail pan the motor doesn’t get full power.
And everyone is always quick to blame a bad motor when in reality they are relatively simple and robust, not to mention you can easily disassemble and lube the bushings and clean the contacts. I don’t know how you’d check the transmission for failure and it’s a pretty expensive part to buy only to find out that’s not the issue. Been years since I’ve been inside my tailgate but you might be able to put your hand on it to feel if it’s skipping gears (just be careful - don’t want to chop any fingers off!). Or put a dowl against it and the other end to your ear - a poor man’s stethoscope.
That should keep you busy for a while.
ChiefBeck
Registered Member
How do you get the latch out without breaking something? It's attached to the cable, as I'm sure you know. Im trying to get it out so I can clean the mechanism and elec. contacts. Can't find the safety switch online anywhere...suggestions?
rampage
3/4 ton status
Again, it’s been years since I’ve been inside there and I forget exactly how they come off. They are steel rods so you’re not going to break them. You may need to disconnect them at the center of the gate where they attach to the handle first. Think it’s a couple clips that hold them on. Most people just bypass that safety switch (remove the switch and connect the two wires together).
Do a search on here. I’m sure there’s at least one thread that tells how to remove that latch.
Do a search on here. I’m sure there’s at least one thread that tells how to remove that latch.
ChiefBeck
Registered Member
Hey Blue85. How do you get the latch and switch apart from the steel cable without breaking something? I'll try cleaning the switch, but if it's toast, where do you suggest getting a new one?
I'm confused between cable and rod. AFAIK, there is 1 cable from the motor to the regulator. There are 2 rods from the handle mechanism to the side latches (window and latches are mostly separate functions). The rods tie to the side latches with little plastic bushings. To disconnect, remove the tailgate access panel and reach through to pull the rod "hook" end out of the latch mechanism. Just like working on any door latch/ power lock system.
ChiefBeck
Registered Member
I got it, but like i figured the damn little plastic clip that attaches the rod at the handle mech broke. I wont find another one, but I cleaned the switch and it works now. I wonder if I wanted to bypass which wires I should connect together? I know so little about elec and harnesses.
ChiefBeck
Registered Member
I ended up breaking the damn plastic clip on the connector rod at the handle mech. I knew that was going to happen. Gotta figure out a way to hold it in there now, but I did clean the connectors and put PB all over the latch....it works now. Thank you. I want to bypass eventually. Do you just cut the clip off and connect the two wires from the harness to bypass?
rampage
3/4 ton status
LMC has the clips and they also have diagrams of how parts of the truck go together for future reference.
If you cleaned the switch and it works then there’s no reason to bypass it.
The following thread has pics of the latch/switch - don’t know if you can see it since you’re not a premium member. Just connect the two wires on the switch together to bypass it.
https://ck5.com/forums/threads/91-k5-power-rear-tailgate-glass-help.319330/#post-3495772
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ChiefBeck
Registered Member
You've been very helpful, Rampage. I sure do appreciate your help. I just replaced the steering gear box to fix the slack in the steering...worked great and everything seems tight now. There is an inordinate amount of knocking, sounds like something is worn out in the steering. Have you heard of this? And if so, what should I focus on to fix? Thanks again.
rampage
3/4 ton status
Different issue. You should start a new thread with specifics.
