CK5
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Tailgate window motor
- Thread starter Sao87
- Start date
rampage
3/4 ton status
Only way I know to get a higher torque motor is to rewind it yourself.
I’m guessing you have a slow window which would require some maintenance instead of brute forcing it. Explain why you want a higher torque motor or the problem you’re experiencing and we’ll help if you’re will to do some work.
I’m guessing you have a slow window which would require some maintenance instead of brute forcing it. Explain why you want a higher torque motor or the problem you’re experiencing and we’ll help if you’re will to do some work.
So I am nearly finished bldg a 1987 k5. I replaced regulator, glass, seals, cable and on motor number 4. I have installed relays and number 8 wire with 50 amp fuse and 850amp battery. Heavily greased the regulator. I have removed and reinstalled all parts 8 times in search of a problem. My 12 volt small cordless drill runs the glass up and down with no effort or strain even on a mostly dead battery. I don't want to go manual because it pains me to see a switch on the dash that does nothing. Please Help.
rampage
3/4 ton status
Try running a large gauge wire from the frame to the case of the window motor, like a 10 gauge wire. From factory, the ground for the motor goes through the hinges, so if there is any corrosion/rust beneath them it’ll make the motor run slow.
I have a new 8 guage wire for ground also. Grinded paint off the frame and bolted. I put a battery in the bed of truck just to test with short jumpers and same problem. Also sanded Paint off motor to make better contact with bracket for ground.
rampage
3/4 ton status
Just so we’re not chasing something silly, how are you connecting the wires to the motor to test it and what is the voltage of the battery while the motor is running?
Also, inspect how the motor interacts with the window parts. Using the drill may change how the input shaft lines up. Something might be binding when you hook the motor to it.
I would suspect a bad motor, but you said that it was number 4. Wish you had a clamp-on DC ammeter tell how much the motor is drawing, but then we would have to get someone else here to measure theirs, since I have no idea what the normal draw is.
I would suspect a bad motor, but you said that it was number 4. Wish you had a clamp-on DC ammeter tell how much the motor is drawing, but then we would have to get someone else here to measure theirs, since I have no idea what the normal draw is.
Someone out there was making a setup at one point. I can't remember who it was, but I sent them an email and they never responded so I assumed it was dead, and not someone I wanted to try and deal with anyway.
I've got similar issues, but mine is because the window/regulator gets caught on the bolt heads internally, which I suspect is partially due to some metal warping or something. But that's a very definite "clunk" as it hits metal on metal.
I've played around with mine a ton, and found no real solution to my issue. Have you tried just testing it with the window tracks loose? Alignment with the top is going to be important too, since that's additional drag.
I've got similar issues, but mine is because the window/regulator gets caught on the bolt heads internally, which I suspect is partially due to some metal warping or something. But that's a very definite "clunk" as it hits metal on metal.
I've played around with mine a ton, and found no real solution to my issue. Have you tried just testing it with the window tracks loose? Alignment with the top is going to be important too, since that's additional drag.
Test negative to housing of motor and positive to either the up or down terminal depending on which way it needs to travel. Battery voltage maintains at 12.3 to 12.5. If I start the truck engine it's 14 plus.
rampage
3/4 ton status
Maybe I wasn’t clear.
You said you had a test battery in the back of the truck. What voltage does that battery read when you operate the motor. And when you make the connections using that battery are you just touching wires to ground and the terminals or using spade connectors or alligator clips to make contact with the terminals on the motor.
Right now I’m not really interested in what the truck battery reads because that would mean that you’re with using the switch in the dash or the key on the gate. Would rather keep those variables eliminated.
Maybe I wasn’t clear.
You said you had a test battery in the back of the truck. What voltage does that battery read when you operate the motor. And when you make the connections using that battery are you just touching wires to ground and the terminals or using spade connectors or alligator clips to make contact with the terminals on the motor.
Right now I’m not really interested in what the truck battery reads because that would mean that you’re with using the switch in the dash or the key on the gate. Would rather keep those variables eliminated.
With test battery voltage 12 to 12.1 motor running. Ring terminal on ground and screwed into housing. Blade terminal on spade for positive. Ground clamped to negative post. Positive post large clip so I can remove quickly. I have no other electrical issues with truck. I put one piece window kits in doors and those go up and down faster than my 2020 chevy.
rampage
3/4 ton status
Ok. Just checking. 
We are dealing with technology that is 40 yrs old. Those side windows are using more modern window mechanisms I’ll bet.
I’m with dyeager in thinking that it may be binding. Do like he suggested and loosen the side rails and try it then. And while we’re at it can we check Fordum’s theory too by holding the motor in the same position you used the drill at.
While you had the regulator out did you clean the tracks just under the window that the rollers ride in? I know that in the front doors the grease they used from the factory turns hard and makes the windows stick. I’m sure they used that in the rear also. Been many years since I went through my tailgate rebuild.
Curious as to where you’re getting these motors from. I’m starting to suspect they’re rebuilts and they weren’t done properly, not that there’s a whole lot to it. Does it struggle when nothing is connected to it?
We are dealing with technology that is 40 yrs old. Those side windows are using more modern window mechanisms I’ll bet.
I’m with dyeager in thinking that it may be binding. Do like he suggested and loosen the side rails and try it then. And while we’re at it can we check Fordum’s theory too by holding the motor in the same position you used the drill at.
While you had the regulator out did you clean the tracks just under the window that the rollers ride in? I know that in the front doors the grease they used from the factory turns hard and makes the windows stick. I’m sure they used that in the rear also. Been many years since I went through my tailgate rebuild.
Curious as to where you’re getting these motors from. I’m starting to suspect they’re rebuilts and they weren’t done properly, not that there’s a whole lot to it. Does it struggle when nothing is connected to it?
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