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Tapered Spring plates for a dana 60

if you need 10 degrees you might want to think about relocating the spring perches. They are going to want to try and spit out plus it puts funky loads on your U bolts.
 
the spring plates won't spit out when they are bolted in. he probably has 10 shims and the angle is so bad that it needs angled top plates.
 
I am going to be running 10 degree zerorates on the front with a 60 so there is no way of relocating the perches. Really just need one for the passenger side so I can get the 2 bolts to tighten down correctly.
 
That is an option, but I would like to do it the right way. Right now I am running 4 degree zero rates and a set of 4 degree spring plates.
 
I read it wrong. I thought he was looking for 10 degree shims not top plates. 10 degrees is still alot. Caster will be all wrong unless you cut and turn the knuckles. It would be better to correct the problem that is causing the need for 10 degrees of rotation on the axle.
 
bdozeraz said:
I read it wrong. I thought he was looking for 10 degree shims not top plates. 10 degrees is still alot. Caster will be all wrong unless you cut and turn the knuckles. It would be better to correct the problem that is causing the need for 10 degrees of rotation on the axle.
This is to correct the caster not driveshaft angle. Right now I am at -10 degrees caster with a 4 degree zerorate. Using the 10 degree zerorate it will go back to the desired -4 degrees caster. This should also point my pinion where it would be perfect.
 
HIjack started*Saw your rig at the expo in houston. Sweet rig really like the engine cage tie in with teh front bumper.*hijack ended
 
cegusman said:
This is to correct the caster not driveshaft angle. Right now I am at -10 degrees caster with a 4 degree zerorate. Using the 10 degree zerorate it will go back to the desired -4 degrees caster. This should also point my pinion where it would be perfect.

I don't know how your rig is set up. Sounds like the shims would be a quick and easy fix. To me now it sounds like there might be a problem with your spring mount location or shackle length. If it were mine I would try to eventually get that straightend out so it does not need the shims. I myself stacked two 4 degree shims together in the rear to get eight degrees while sorting out a driveline vibration. Once I determined the proper angle I relocated the perches and got rid of the shims.
 
bdozeraz said:
I don't know how your rig is set up. Sounds like the shims would be a quick and easy fix. To me now it sounds like there might be a problem with your spring mount location or shackle length. If it were mine I would try to eventually get that straightend out so it does not need the shims. I myself stacked two 4 degree shims together in the rear to get eight degrees while sorting out a driveline vibration. Once I determined the proper angle I relocated the perches and got rid of the shims.

I am running the 52" spring swap up front with a 7.25" shackle. There is no need to mess with the suspension, just need to rotate the axle some.
 
Just run a 10* steel shim between the pack and plate backwards to correct the angle on the bolts.
 
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