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Tapping 4 lights into 1 wire??

K85 Octane

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Just looking for the best way to run some dome lights I bought. I have 4 spread throughout the cage. I'd like to run 1 wire into the original dome light connector from the hardtop. What's the best way to tie them in?

The old me would just use vampire taps, trying not to.
 
First, make sure the original wire can handle the current of all the lights. If that's okay then connect the wires in parallel, soldering each connection and insulating it with heat shrink tube.
 
YOU CAN'T LEAVE OUT THE DETAILS!

:rotfl:

I have used a butt connector that will fit 2 of the wires that I am going to use, into one side of the connector. That will let you make a 'Y' . Do one at the original wire so that you split to run one wire to each side of the cage. Then again at the 1st light so that it continues to the 2nd.

I like to use heat shrink, step-butt connectors on such things. Not a a good as soldering, but neat, fast and works.
 
YOU CAN'T LEAVE OUT THE DETAILS!

:rotfl:

I have used a butt connector that will fit 2 of the wires that I am going to use, into one side of the connector. That will let you make a 'Y' . Do one at the original wire so that you split to run one wire to each side of the cage. Then again at the 1st light so that it continues to the 2nd.

I like to use heat shrink, step-butt connectors on such things. Not a a good as soldering, but neat, fast and works.

Guilty at this, and the wire taps as well. Never been completely satisfied with how ever it's been done.
 
The wire I'm trying to use is a shielded pair of red and black wires. The wire and OG connector should handle the new LEDs fine considering the original draw was two candesenct bulbs. I was going to try a single shot down the top of the cage, passing each light. Then solder in, but trying to slice the rubber is tough. I've got heat shrink, always with the heat shrink :)
 
I like using these style connection with dielelectric grease, then shrink tube over top. http://www.homelectrical.com/drycon...71030.1.html?gclid=CNra2LzpzM4CFQOUfgodT00HyQ

When I've had to join three wires, I just made sure I could fit two of the stripped ends in before I crimped it. I bought a fair number of different sizes of those from mouser for pretty cheap. They are pretty handy to have around. Lot faster than soldering if you have to do a number of joints.

I generally don't like the pre-covered crimp connectors, not sure if it's quality or what, but the plastic often gets in the way of a good crimp, and often splits IME.
 
I have used the barrel connecters like above but I only crimp the single wire in then insert the other wires and solder them all together and cover in heat shrink.

Only done it on trailers though for marker lights
 
Is you connection spot hidden and is there a fair bit of room? We have these studs at work with plastic perforated mounting pads. They make good single stud junction points with ring terminals. But you gotta have room for them and its not the prettiest.

GI_30.jpg


When you're done you can bundle the wires and use one of these to cover the stud:

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Just use wire nuts...........they make for lots of easy trail repairs. :rolleyes:

Guilty !--but my "trails" are the local streets and highways..wire nuts work well on thick gauge stuff you cant easily find crimp connectors for,and they do make quick work of repairing a few busted wires on lights,etc..but I do prefer soldering wires and taping or shrink wrapping them,use copper tubing to splice thick gauges & solder them..but wire nuts are a quick "get ya home" fix that often lasts indefinitely..

You could use wires like lamp cord that can be separated into 2 conductors and melt off the insulation with a Bic lighter and solder them right to the lamp sockets,so you'll have one long un-broken length of 2 conductor wire..


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Guess I'll have to stop working on cars ..:doah:..
 
I just got rid of a handful of wire nuts from PO... lol

I've used a product called 'posi lock' that make a Y connector, they're cheap and reliable and reusable. You can also google military splice.
 
You can also use crimp or solder on connectors that are Y's and just make a daisy Chain along a couple of strands (like 2 or 3 additional Y's. Sometimes on motorcycles I have to do that simply because people want to add on an LED blinker or stop light to the original configuration (like on a saddle bag). As long as you observe the gauge of the wire and the load being placed on it you can also solder them in but I usually just use an OEM style crimp connector that grips bother the wire and the insulation. It's strong enough so that the wire usually breaks before the connector does and it's good for tight area's where you know you will have to disconnect the wires at times but its so tight you have to yank on the wires to get them apart. You could also use a power distribution block but again just make sure the buss bar doesn't get overloaded. Also, if you are using LED lighting like what goes in the OE dome lights then the amperage is probably going to be next to nothing so you do not have to run anything more than a single 12 gauge source wire.

Check out Vintageconnections.com for a good source of OEM bullet and Y type connectors. (mostly for my motorcycle needs but I use them on lots of other vehicles as needed)
 
I put 4 waterproof led's in my cage and they work awesome, more light than in any vehicle I have ever seen. They are connected to the original dome wiring and the door pins as well. I started with 2 long wires then started routing to where I wanted the lights mounted, then at every connection I just cut in the led with butt connectors and marine grade shrink (The stuff with the gooey glue stuff inside to seal them up real good) then carried on to the next. Where I split them in the rear to go to each side the long wire went to one side and again cut in with a butt connector to go the other way. Wrapped all wires with some painless wire protection and zip tied to cage.

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I've always had this vision in my head of some type of a contact connector that you could attach one side to the bed rail and the other to the top and have it so that when you mount the top there are no connectors to fiddle with but I could see a number of problems that would generate, lol.
 

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