TBI 350 Dies Idling and Wont Run

[dyeager535]

Does this link to the 1991 emissions manual work?

http://www.mediafire.com/file/ki97h...Fuel_and_Emissions_Including_Driveability.pdf

PDF page 53, figure 3-12 at least until it gets into the tech1 stuff. You can ensure there are no codes (other than 12) with just a paperclip jumpering the ALDL as mentioned. From my experience if something is wrong, the check engine light will not respond properly when you turn the key on but do not try to start the engine. Not saying that is a given, but just what I've experienced. When something is wrong, the light often gives an indication in one form or another. In my case, the light won't blink when the key is turned to run, before staying on steady.

Then you can jump to page 72. Most people apparently hate actually following the flow charts (myself included) and if you have known good spare parts, it is sometimes faster to swap them than it is to test, but the charts generally make sense to follow. Kind of hard without a scantool however.

Where do you live?

 

[eclipse85k10]

I'm in Spokane, thanks I'll take a look at that

 

[diesel4me]

I've had engines that flooded when the choke pull off failed to open the choke after a cold start,and after it stalled ,it would only crank over like it had no spark,if you waited long enough for the excess fuel to evaporate it would "almost" start,but not fire up--the spark plugs "died" once they were flooded and the only thing to get it to start again was installing 8 new spark plugs..(Champion plugs were the worst for this,AC and Autolite plugs usually would recover once they dried out and let it start again)..
(yes,I know yours is EFI but if it got flooded bad enough it'll act the same way--a bad fuel pressure regulator can flood an injected engine )..

I have seen an engine that refused to start after stalling when the EGR valve got a hunk of carbon stuck in it and it stayed open before--the engine wanted to start,but kept backfiring while cranking and binding up like the timing was too far advanced..the EGR must have created a vacuum leak and let the exhaust get sent back into the intake and made the fuel mixture too lean..

 

[eclipse85k10]

I've had engines that flooded when the choke pull off failed to open the choke after a cold start,and after it stalled ,it would only crank over like it had no spark,if you waited long enough for the excess fuel to evaporate it would "almost" start,but not fire up--the spark plugs "died" once they were flooded and the only thing to get it to start again was installing 8 new spark plugs..(Champion plugs were the worst for this,AC and Autolite plugs usually would recover once they dried out and let it start again)..
(yes,I know yours is EFI but if it got flooded bad enough it'll act the same way--a bad fuel pressure regulator can flood an injected engine )..

I have seen an engine that refused to start after stalling when the EGR valve got a hunk of carbon stuck in it and it stayed open before--the engine wanted to start,but kept backfiring while cranking and binding up like the timing was too far advanced..the EGR must have created a vacuum leak and let the exhaust get sent back into the intake and made the fuel mixture too lean..

I definitely wondered the same thing that it might be a bad regulator and installed new autolite plugs. I thought if it was getting flooded the new plugs might at least let it start.

Never thought about the egr valve. I definitely have to check it out.

 

[Wes Harden]

1 thing, the iac may be fully closed, restricting air. To test this crack the throttle while cranking, if it starts or trys to, the iac is closed. Also if you wide open throttle while cranking this clear flood mode, the injectors won't cycle. Hate to see you part it out. There is a solution.

 

[Chevman88]

Go back to the basics, you need fuel, air, and spark to get it started.

1. Make sure your injectors are pulsing when engine is being cranked, should be able to see a nice cone shape with no dribbles.
2. Pull one of your plugs and ground it to the block verify spark (do it with a set of pliers with nice insulation)
3. Make sure your IAC is set correctly or crack throttle blades while cranking.

As long as you are getting these three it should start (or attempt to). May not run well, but it should at least start.

 

[eclipse85k10]

Go back to the basics, you need fuel, air, and spark to get it started.

1. Make sure your injectors are pulsing when engine is being cranked, should be able to see a nice cone shape with no dribbles.
2. Pull one of your plugs and ground it to the block verify spark (do it with a set of pliers with nice insulation)
3. Make sure your IAC is set correctly or crack throttle blades while cranking.

As long as you are getting these three it should start (or attempt to). May not run well, but it should at least start.

Definitely have checked on 1 & 2, haven't checked the IAC but have tried cranking with the throttle cracked open

 

[Chevk587]

That’s a feat to be proud of.

 

[jekquistk5]

Get an ALDL cable and download tuner pro rt. Then you can see what all the sensors are reading. You will find it real quick that way. Surprised no one has mentioned the CTS on the front of the intake, that will flood an engine in no time.