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TBI and Vortec question

78SWB

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So I have a nicer 1996 K1500 Z71 with the Vortec and it has developed a bottom end knock on start and you can kinda hear it on idle if it's warm, but still has oil pressure.

Also have a 1994 K1500 that is a rust bucket with a bad transmission.

My question is, are the short blocks the same? Can I take the good short block from the TBI truck and put the Vortec heads and intake on it and run it in the Vortec truck?
 
Physically the same block dimensions/bolt ups, etc.

I *think* there might be an issue with cam/distributor gear, but I'm not up on whatever difference there might be.

Additionally, the roller camshaft combo in the Vortec vs. the flat tappet may be enough to cause some driveability issues. Swapping the cam/lifters/etc from the Vortec to the 1994 should be a cinch, and would be my approach, since the rockers are different, and the pushrods may be too. Will have to swap the timing cover as well, since it's got a crankshaft position sensor.
 
So it should be completely do-able, you just have to swap over everything but the rotating assy. Now to decide wether it's worth all the work...
 
I can't think of any reason you couldn't swap everything over.

If compression ratio changed between the two engines I suppose that will have some bearing on driveability, but in the grand scheme of things, I would expect that to be very minimal.
 
just to throw it out there. but you can get a brand new vortec long block for $17-1900?

just freshen up the vortec and keep the tbi engine in a complete vehicle.
 
That's what I paid for the whole truck :doah:. The TBI truck is going to be donating the TBI setup to my K10 and a few other parts to the Vortec truck and then going to the JY.
 
That's what I paid for the whole truck :doah:. The TBI truck is going to be donating the TBI setup to my K10 and a few other parts to the Vortec truck and then going to the JY.
ah! well carry on then, if youre already parting it out seems like the right time to steal the block
 
Im pretty sure that the vortec setup has a different timing cover with a crank position sensor in it.
 
Around here there's a few yards where I can get a mid to late 90's long lock for $300 or so. Some are lower mileage, but I got screwed on a 302 with 1/4" of copper from the bearings in the pan. Glad I pulled it to check, but I'm guessing that's not exactly normal.

Was supposedly just over 100k, and from the outward appearance I have no reason to doubt that.
 
Here is what I would do.
a) call olstens for a long block. It will cost maybe $500 and will come with a warranty.
b) pull and rebuild the current vortec 350 for your k10
c) swap on tbi to vortec and install in your truck
d) sell the K1500 and buy that diesel you think you can't live without
e) profit?

P.s the cam in your current 350 is too big to work good with the tbi without tuning and the vortec is just a better engine.
 
That would be awesome. Show me where I can get a Vortec for $500, apparently they're like gold.

LKQ wants $1600 for a reman and $1100 for a pull out with 155k.

Olstens wants $950 for one with 143k. $50 1 year warranty

Thats my cost through work.
 
hmmmmm

Also take the risk of getting another **** engine, but what can ya do? Might have to get one of those...
 
buy motor, pull pan, replace almost knocking bearings and intake gasket with good felpro gasket, profit. Buy diesel, spend all money maintaining it, start drinking problem, pass out in ditch, drown in rain run off.
 
buy motor, pull pan, replace almost knocking bearings and intake gasket with good felpro gasket, profit. Buy diesel, spend all money maintaining it, start drinking problem, pass out in ditch, drown in rain run off.
Nebraska: the good life!
:thumb::haha:
 
buy motor, pull pan, replace almost knocking bearings and intake gasket with good felpro gasket, profit. Buy diesel, spend all money maintaining it, start drinking problem, pass out in ditch, drown in rain run off.

I want to leave that last part out if possible. On a serious note, how involved is it to put new bearings in?
 
Despite what all the toyota gays on scr think, if it is knocking it should have machine work. It is most likely a spun rod bearing, when bearings spin they loose there bearing crush and require the rod or main to be resized and the surface the bearing rides on the be polished or ground. So the short version? At least pulling the pan and one head.
 
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