tbi camshaft again

[rick88blaze]

OK, here's the deal. On my '93 K2500 with a 350 tbi and auto tranny I have a lifter that sticks most of the time when I first start my engine. I am going to fix it but I want to do a slight upgrade on my camshaft when I do this. I talked to Comp Cams and the specs below is what they recommend for me, especially since I don't want to mess with my computer or getting a chip for it.

valve lift: int-434, exh-444
duration: int-206, exh-212
lobe centerline: 112

Here's my question: Would the cam in the ebay link below be close enough that it would work pretty much the same or do you think I would have to get a chip for it.

EBAY LINK

In case you didn't figure it out, I don't know **** about camshafts.

Thanks,
Rick

 

[Busted Knuckles]

I'd look for something with around 114LSA, the computer needs manifold vacuum to work properly.
Make sure the Comp Cams piece is on a steel core, not one of their joke hardened cast pieces. Everyone else uses steel, this is another of Comp's cut corners. Most of the stuff on ebay is Federal Mogul which are cut by Crane. The numbers on the comp you quoted may be a bit steep, I'd stick to something in the 206/212 range.

 

[4X4HIGH]

[FONT=arial,verdana,helvetica,sans]Specs can be approximate. Profile, power range are accurate. Lift and duration can vary by 1-2% and still offer same profile.[/FONT]

With this said i would stay as far away as possible. If the lift and duration can vary by 1-2% then someone screwed up when grinding the cam. This is not a piece you can have vary or you'll end up with all kinds of drivability problems.

The cam that comp recommended is perfect.

 

[Busted Knuckles]

Those cams are regrinds, they simply use a camshaft copier. They're probably not too bad but I'd keep looking. If it is indeed a regrind, it's possible that they've ground the case hardening off in which case it's a for sure pass-on-it.

 

[Thunder]

The cam comp recomended #12-249-4 is a very good cam for TBI and will run good on the stock chip. But to get the most out of the cam a custom chip burned for that cam would be best. You will need to get new valve springs. You should also have headers and good exhaust.
You can get a good chip from Brian at http://www.tbichips.com

The Melling MTC1 on the Ebay link will also work good with TBI. Many people use them in TBI trucks. They build very good torque and are very compatable with the TBI heads. It will work good with the stock chip. It is a good cam if your truck still has stock exhaust. You can get the Cam and lifter kit from most autoparts like Auto zone for $90.00. The MTC1 will get good gas milage too.
Which ever cam you get get the whole kit including the valve springs. The stock valve springs are very weak and should be replaced when upgrading your cam.

FYI. I have bought from that Ebay seller a couple of times and have had no problem with them.

Beings you say you dont know much about cams. When you install. You must Use plenty of camshaft assembly lube. Pour it all over the cam before and ovet the cam and lifters after instaled. Go to your local GM dealer and buy some GM EOS (Engine Oil Supplement) and pour it in with your oil. Oil now days contain no zinc and will not protect the cam lobes on inital start up. GM EOS is loaded with zinc and will protect the cam lobes. You can also use EOS as an assembly lube it is great stuff.
After putting in the additive start up and run in the cam per manufactures instructions.

 

[rick88blaze]

Ok, I found the Melling MTC-1 Cam and lifter kit at Autozone for about $100. I will get it through them since I know I will get a warranty and I get a 10% discount for being Military. On Autozone.com it says to use valve springs that are 1.72" tall installed. I found them at Autozone and summitracing (summit's half as cheap at Autozone). Are these the stock height valve springs? And should I replace my pushrods while I'm at it? Thanks.

Rick

 

[dyeager535]

Pushrods are pretty cheap, unless you are broke, I think I'd spring for new ones. I have yet to pull a high mileage motor out that didn't have at least one pushrod that wasn't straight.

Pull them out, and roll them across a sheet of glass. You'll know if they are bent or not. But age means wear, so even if not bent now, adding more stress to them could cause failure.