jteck10
1/2 ton status
Ok so I have to twist both at the same time to fit gears into TDC, got it
Where is the oil pump drive located?
CK5
Register an account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members.
TBI fuel injector trouble?
- Thread starter jteck10
- Start date
Where is the oil pump drive located?
jteck10
1/2 ton status
@Wes Harden @BoondocK5
We’ll boys we have liftoff!
Got the dizzy in, started, timed, and drove around the block.
As of now I’ll chalk it up to a win
Big thanks for putting up with all my nagging questions and pushing me to fix it instead of haul it to a shop!
We’ll boys we have liftoff!
Got the dizzy in, started, timed, and drove around the block.
As of now I’ll chalk it up to a win
Big thanks for putting up with all my nagging questions and pushing me to fix it instead of haul it to a shop!
jteck10
1/2 ton status
Aaaaaaand here we are again.
After new dizzy, timed, phone calls to @Wes Harden she still stalled once or twice on me. Noticed that the rpm’s always sank and it died. I could drive it a few blocks or so by feathering the brake and gas pedals like it was a clutch. So I figured I’d replace the Idle Air Control Valve.
The old one came off fairly easy, and the gasket was half gone. On first start, she idled high at about 2K RPM in park til she warmed up. Drove her around the block, still sounded a little high, then parked her again and she was at about 1.5K RPM. Noticed when I would shift from reverse to drive and vice versa she would drop about 500RPM before settling at 1Kish while driving.
We’ll see what happens when I take her for a spin tomorrow
After new dizzy, timed, phone calls to @Wes Harden she still stalled once or twice on me. Noticed that the rpm’s always sank and it died. I could drive it a few blocks or so by feathering the brake and gas pedals like it was a clutch. So I figured I’d replace the Idle Air Control Valve.
The old one came off fairly easy, and the gasket was half gone. On first start, she idled high at about 2K RPM in park til she warmed up. Drove her around the block, still sounded a little high, then parked her again and she was at about 1.5K RPM. Noticed when I would shift from reverse to drive and vice versa she would drop about 500RPM before settling at 1Kish while driving.
We’ll see what happens when I take her for a spin tomorrow
when this stall happens, does it do it after a +40mph cruise, and then slowing down ? If so try disconnecting the vac line on egr and put a golf tee in the hose then drive. the check engine light may come on ignore it for now.
jteck10
1/2 ton status
@Wes Harden Maybe not at 40+ MPH, but most of the time when slowing down. Sometimes right after I’ve shifted gears. I’ll try the golf tee if it stalls again on me. What would that indicate?
When at cruise the egr opens and is supposed to close on deceleration. If it doesn't close for what ever reason, dirt in pintle, clogged solenoid vent filter, carbon, creates a vacuum leak. Engine stall.
jteck10
1/2 ton status
So egr would need to be replaced, got it
You can test it, by removing it it. And applying vacuum to it, if the pintle moves, it's working. Then make sure the pintle is fully seated, when closed. If it won't hold vacuum, it's bad also.
If it's electric, find out which pins are ground and B+, use I have specific test leads to run ground, and run battery power,Idont use them for anything else. Long coiled red cord, with small alligator clips on each end, is obviously for B+, long coiled fluorescent green with small alligator clips on the ends, are for ground. I usually go straight to the B- for that
If it's electric, find out which pins are ground and B+, use I have specific test leads to run ground, and run battery power,Idont use them for anything else. Long coiled red cord, with small alligator clips on each end, is obviously for B+, long coiled fluorescent green with small alligator clips on the ends, are for ground. I usually go straight to the B- for that
jteck10
1/2 ton status
@Wes Harden so she stalled on me again on a test drive this morning. made it almost all the way back home and died. then she died again while she was in park in the driveway. threw the OBD reader in and its throwing a code 42.
I managed to snag a new EGR before she stalled again, i'll remove and test it in a bit before putting in the new one
since this all started when i replaced the water pump, i wonder if the coolant temp sensors are throwing things off? i think there's one up top in the intake, and a switch on the side of the block by spark plug #1 - right? wonder if its worth replacing those
I managed to snag a new EGR before she stalled again, i'll remove and test it in a bit before putting in the new one
since this all started when i replaced the water pump, i wonder if the coolant temp sensors are throwing things off? i think there's one up top in the intake, and a switch on the side of the block by spark plug #1 - right? wonder if its worth replacing those
Last edited:
It isn't always the egr, could be harden sluge in the manifold ports. But I am not convinced we are looking a the correct system.
The egr should not be active in the driveway.
Don't install the EGR valve you purchased so you can take it back if not needed. Also aftermarket EGR valve are not created equal.
What are the injectors doing and wiring at tbi look like?
When you did the iac did clean the tbi side of the system? Wire pipe burst and brake clean, to clean the seat the iac pintle seals against.
I would also like to see the fuel pressure while on a test drive. Thou this is not easy on tbi
The egr should not be active in the driveway.
Don't install the EGR valve you purchased so you can take it back if not needed. Also aftermarket EGR valve are not created equal.
What are the injectors doing and wiring at tbi look like?
When you did the iac did clean the tbi side of the system? Wire pipe burst and brake clean, to clean the seat the iac pintle seals against.
I would also like to see the fuel pressure while on a test drive. Thou this is not easy on tbi
If code 42 is thrown, maybe it makes more sense to go after that? A quick Google indicates a spark issue.
jteck10
1/2 ton status
ok, i wont install the EGR.
injectors seem fine when running, wiring looks to be ok
i did clean the IAC valve area, but i didnt do brake cleaner on the pintle area. ill take it off and try that.
no idea how to do fuel pressure while driving...
am i stuck in the water again?
Code 42 is est, electronic spark timing. If that circuit opens, or shorts to ground, the engine will stall. it will restart but runs on the ign control module.
Carefull inspection of the wiring, including pins, esp the female side for loose fitting.
Also inspect the pick up coil reluctor and ring for small cracks.
I know this is a new/replaced distributor, but damage could happen during manufacture
Carefull inspection of the wiring, including pins, esp the female side for loose fitting.
Also inspect the pick up coil reluctor and ring for small cracks.
I know this is a new/replaced distributor, but damage could happen during manufacture
jteck10
1/2 ton status
i get that, but i've done ICM twice, a whole new distributor, swapped cap/rotor, etc.
jteck10
1/2 ton status
it seemed fine when installed, and i double triple checked everything since i didnt want to have to deal with this again
I used to put my pressure gauge in place of the fuel filter. A flow thru style guage. I had to make my fitting and adapters. That was 35 years ago. I am not sure if a ready made tool is available, might be able to rent one from parts store. Make sure the tool will do what you need it to before renting, and that it is complete and undamaged. They are miss treated greatly.
jteck10
1/2 ton status
@Wes Harden i wonder if a throttle position sensor, MAP sensor, fuel pressure regulator, or PCV have anything to do with it
They all could. Map sensor needs a good vacuum signal, if a leak in the vacuum signal, werid drivability symptoms. If the electronic portion of the map sensor was bad, you would have a code.
TPS is all electric, picture rheostat. Also sets a code.
Fuel pressure reg, all mechanical, no codes directly. You would see lean /rich codes.
Pcv system if it created a vacuum leak is an issue, again lean fuel mixture codes. where clogged up different issue, not stalling, but oil consumption and leaking gaskets
TPS is all electric, picture rheostat. Also sets a code.
Fuel pressure reg, all mechanical, no codes directly. You would see lean /rich codes.
Pcv system if it created a vacuum leak is an issue, again lean fuel mixture codes. where clogged up different issue, not stalling, but oil consumption and leaking gaskets
jteck10
1/2 ton status
maybe i start with trying to test the MAP sensor and TPS then?
Go for the code 1st.
Every plug you unplug is potential for further damage to resistance and pin fit.
Always inspect and repair vac lines. They get old hard and crack. Or squishy/gummy with chemical contamination.
If your not getting TPS and map codes your probably good there.
The computer is really good at seeing electrical issues. Not so good at mechanical issues. Mechanical problems show in the live data stream that needs to interpretrated by humans
Every plug you unplug is potential for further damage to resistance and pin fit.
Always inspect and repair vac lines. They get old hard and crack. Or squishy/gummy with chemical contamination.
If your not getting TPS and map codes your probably good there.
The computer is really good at seeing electrical issues. Not so good at mechanical issues. Mechanical problems show in the live data stream that needs to interpretrated by humans
