TBI Fuel question

[BlueWhiteUSMC]

Hello ck5 members,

I have my 85 k5 that will recieve a 1994 5.7. I purchased the TBI,complete engine, computer and wiring harness. The previous owner of the engine purchased a this setup in a Jeep with Howell conversion kit and took it all out.

THIS KIT COMES WITH AN INLINE PUMP

I want to get a new TBI 31 gallon gas tank,TBI Fuel pump and sending unit TBI return line to make it all legit.
In essence building a 88-91 k5 TBI factory setup. I dont want to run this fuel pump inline with my current setup and run a return line to the fillerneck
Do you think I should drop the motor in and do a backyard mechanic job?
Or do it right factory style from the start?
I live in a hot place and want to be fuel problem free
Thanks

 

[buefchris]

I'd go with the 31 gal. tank and sending unit with a Corvette pump.
While the tank is out, cut yourself an access panel in the floor just incase of pump failure.
Leave your OEM fuel lines and run steel braids right to the runners.
Earls makes fittings that adapts to the sending unit.

 

[BlueWhiteUSMC]

I agree, time to update.
The tank has never been cleaned.
Dropping and switching the tank wont be a problem.
Ill post pictures in builds one I get the parts in and the ball rolling

 

[USSkoval]

Dropping the tank is a pain. I'd much rather have the inline pump, mounted in the correct position. Your truck should already have a fuel return line too.

 

[buefchris]

mybad .I thought this was a TPI engine we were talking about.
Scrach the Corvette pump then.

 

[BlueWhiteUSMC]

Thanks
Dropping a gas tank on a truck isnt too hard for me.
Next:
My target is about $2200
+6 mpg ( I drive like an old man)
+Roughly 140 Horse (was a 305 Cali emissions)
+Roughly 110 Torque
Replacing:
Fuel Tank
Fuel Pump+Assembly (Going from mechanical to electrical, carb to TBI)
Flexplate (May need more teeth)
Starter (to make it work if I have to change flexplate)
Headers (I want Stainless or similiar quality)
New harmonic balancer (possibly get Damper also)
Motor Mounts if needed
Electric water pump
Eliminating clutch fan for electric fan
New Timing set
Throttlebody spacer once its in and running

 

[USSkoval]

It just seems like wasted time and money to me, plus more wasted time later on when the in-tank pump fails. Have you seen the inside of many fuel tanks pulled out of old car/trucks? They usually are nice and clean.

To each there own.

 

[BlueWhiteUSMC]

I agree it is alot, for what i am paying I could get a whole other K5 with a TBI or 90s pickup truck.
Truck has been in the family since 86 and I've had it for 5 years and only put 20k miles on it totalling 89k on the whole truck. It drives really nice other than a failing bearing. At first I was going to buy a rebuilt 4 bolt main and go carb. Buying this 2 bolt main 350 earlier this week the guy threw in computer and harness for free so im running with it

 

[USSkoval]

Don't get me wrong, the TBI is a good idea. Actually a great idea. I just don't feel the same about the tank/related parts, especially since you already have the inline pump to use.

 

[buefchris]

TBI is a better idea than what you have, I wouldn't call it great but better. Remember,OBD1 stuff can only be manipulated so far, so plan on leaving the efi and cam in stock form.
Your 305 hp is most likely around 100hp if your lucky. a tired mid-90's TBI 350 in stock form will net you about 180hp realistically.
That in line pump is for your carbed motor and will not have enough psi for the TBI besides,in tank keeps the pump cooler.
And yes, dropping the tank is not that hard. you may as well buy a new tank http://www.classicindustries.com/truck/parts/gm14c.html thats not that much$.
An access hole in your floorboard is not that hard either[no cross supports to cut]

This is a 12"X12" hole flanged with tapped holes and button head allens.
And then you can always get to your pump.

 

[4xcrazy]

And yes, dropping the tank is not that hard.

especially if you've done it more than 3 times

i still haven't and most likely won't cut a hole in the floor, now that i know exactly what the procedure is to remove everything, i can usually have the tank dropped in about 30 mins or so.


I like the TBI, issue i have with it is, yes they are nice and basically reliable, BUT when something DOES go wrong?? it can sometimes be a real pain to diagonse. Like what i am going through now, although i haven't really checked it over all that much yet...

It just died on me on the way home from the store last night, just shut off like you'd turn the key off, no spitting & sputtering, just off, still had all power to lights and gauges, just no motor. I can hear the fuel pump running, it's fairly new anyways, so now i get to crawl around under the hood and check electrical components

 

[BlueWhiteUSMC]

... Your truck should already have a fuel return line too.

I do have 3 fuel lines your 100% right

After looking it all over i will infact put the new gas tank and electric in tank on the back burner and try to make what I have work. The pump i am using is from Howell, and can be replaced for 135$ online. I dont plan changing the cam profile. This truck will spend its time a daily driver with light off roading and small trailer towing.

 

[USSkoval]

That in line pump is for your carbed motor and will not have enough psi for the TBI besides,in tank keeps the pump cooler.

No, it's for the EFI.

If mounted low and close to the tank, it will work fine and stay plenty cool.

 

[Wasatch K5]

I have a 1986 Blazer which I bought out of Kalifornia. It had a 350 and was the last year of carburetion. When that engine went south I decided to upgrade to more power.

I purchased a 1988 454 Suburban originally owned by Southern California Edison to harvest the 454 and associated parts from.

I swapped pretty much everything I could. One of the project goals was to create a vehicle that I thought GM should have built but never did: namely a 454 TBI Blazer. So I tried to use oem parts to the max extent possible. I really wanted the Blazer to look as though it left the factory with that 454 TBI engine

I'm a pretty picky person and really tried to do a first class job. I think the end result is a very sharp rig. There are a fair number of 454 powered Blazers out there, but many (if not most) are low-budget swaps. Lots of the time consuming details are simply avoided and not worked through.

By "sweating the details" and using oem parts, it makes it easier to get replacement parts. For example everything engine related is 1988 454 Suburban. There's no "mickey mousing" accessory brackets, belts, hoses etc to get it to work.

Here's an example: 454's never left the factory mated to a 700R4 transmission. As such there is no wire from the ecm to the transmission to control torque converter lock-up. Similarly the 454's ecm is not programmed to lock up the torque converter. The easy way would be to install, a toggle switch and control it manually. To me, the "correct" way is to modify the wiring harness and add the (correctly colored) wire and have a custom chip made for the ecm. Obviously this was a ton more work.

My impression from your first post is that your Blazer has sentimental value to you beyond its worth to someone else. In that light I would humbly suggest you keep it as original as possible and not give in to the easier way of "backyard engineering".

 

[BlueWhiteUSMC]

I'm a pretty picky person and really tried to do a first class job. I think the end result is a very sharp rig. There are a fair number of 454 powered Blazers out there, but many (if not most) are low-budget swaps. Lots of the time consuming details are simply avoided and not worked through.

Here's an example: 454's never left the factory mated to a 700R4 transmission. As such there is no wire from the ecm to the transmission to control torque converter lock-up. Similarly the 454's ecm is not programmed to lock up the torque converter. The easy way would be to install, a toggle switch and control it manually. To me, the "correct" way is to modify the wiring harness and add the (correctly colored) wire and have a custom chip made for the ecm. Obviously this was a ton more work.

My impression from your first post is that your Blazer has sentimental value to you beyond its worth to someone else. In that light I would humbly suggest you keep it as original as possible and not give in to the easier way of "backyard engineering".

10-4! I live where it gets 120 in the summer so im expecting to see some fuel related issues pop up

got 85$? I would think this should work with your electronics and 700r4 http://www.howellefi.com/customer/torque-converter-lockup-kit.html

 

[4xcrazy]

or ya could just use the vacuum operated switch,on the firewall, like they used on the early 80's model trucks with 700's..