TBI pulse problems

[dave w]

I'll add this pic of the ignition module. Not sure if it's going to help. The ECM connections are not for a '7747, this is actually a pic of a Buick ignition module, but Chevy ignition modules are functionally the same.


dave w

 

[4xcrazy]

Well, i went out there just alittle bit ago, started it, it ran for a good 20 minutes with no issues. Turned it off, swapped out the GP Sorenson module with a GM OE unit, started it, ran for another half hour with no issues, no sputtering, no missing, turned it off and onmanually a few times, no problems.

I did get the SES light to come on when i was holding the throttle at about 1800 to try to get the engine to warm up, but again, when i tried to A/B pin SES light check it, all i could get was a 13 before it went dim again, and couldn't tell if there was anything else faulting.

According to the search i did, 13 is the O2 sensor, which is expected actually with the headers i have, and the sensors was thought to be too far down line to possibly work correctly. But other than that, i dunno.

Gonna try tomorrow to run it to someplace and see if i can get an actual scanner plugged into it and see if anything can be pulled that way.

Nervous about driving this thing now though, with this being such a random event now. :-/

 

[dave w]

I think you know this, but other readers might not.

When replacing the ignition module in the distributor, use "Heat Sink" grease, not "Di-Electric" grease. The difference between "Heat Sink" grease and "Di-Electric" grease is "powered aluminum" is added into the formula to make "Di-Electric" grease "Heat Sink" grease. The powered aluminum makes the di-electric grease turn to a white color. "Heat Sink" grease will dissapate heat much better than "Di-Electric" grease.

dave w

 

[4xcrazy]

I think you know this, but other readers might not.

When replacing the ignition module in the distributor, use "Heat Sink" grease, not "Di-Electric" grease. The difference between "Heat Sink" grease and "Di-Electric" grease is "powered aluminum" is added into the formula to make "Di-Electric" grease "Heat Sink" grease. The powered aluminum makes the di-electric grease turn to a white color. "Heat Sink" grease will dissapate heat much better than "Di-Electric" grease.

dave w

Well, although I agree with using the correct grease compound, it seems to be alittle more difficult to locate than just going to the parts store and buying it, hearing from several places now, that even the new replacement modules are coming with the clearish dielectric grease. No one seems to stock the older compound anymore.

 

[dave w]

Well, although I agree with using the correct grease compound, it seems to be alittle more difficult to locate than just going to the parts store and buying it, hearing from several places now, that even the new replacement modules are coming with the clearish dielectric grease. No one seems to stock the older compound anymore.

$2.99 at Radio Shack http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2102858#

Audio Amplifier stuff.

More information about Heat Sink Grease (Thermal Grease). There are differences!

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Thermal_grease

dave w

 

[4xcrazy]

Just went out driving it around, nervous as hell, everything seemed ok, still won't heat up though "normally", stopped at Napa and bought a new t-stat, SES light came on again, both ways, figure it's the O2 sensor though, these cold temps and the headers, i don't think it's too happy.