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tbi trouble

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bscappell21

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:confused: i have been reading all the trouble people have been having with tbi idleing and such and my problem does not quite match any of the others i think.
after about 2 years of only driving once in a while i went and moved my blazer to a new place and it started up fine and idled just fine. when i was going down the road and the truck started having problems. at low idle to about half throttle it would try and die and such and if i babied it enough it would finally get going and WOT was just like normal. i thought well maybe bad gas or something like that. got it to her new home and went out the next day to start it and it took probably 20 revs to get it to start and the idle was horrid. then it would die. then i would start it and it would die. i checked the injector spray once i could get out of the truck fast enough to see before it died and it was spraying like normal but then it would just totally die. once it finally was able to hold its own i put it in gear and it died. so after just the right amount of TLC i got it to go down the road and it was fine as long as you either just leave it at low runing idle or WOT. any other time and at stop signs it just does not run right. i looked at the injectors while starting it from inside and it would spray fine and finally start after 5 seconds or so and then it would stumble and finally backfire with even a little flame. i thought i might just stop while i was ahead.

i replaced the fuel pump relay and added some injector cleaner just in case it was something in the fuel system and made no difference. i can hear the fuel pump click on and all as well.

any ideas? i really do not want to be like the rest of the people and start replacing every little thing to find out it was something totally different. i do not have the money to do that.

thanks ,

brandt
 
Sounds suspiciously like an EGR problem. You may need help, but keep the thing running at a steady (as steady as possible) RPM, and manually activate the EGR valve. You can press on it from underneath. Enough pressure should cause even worse running condition, and with enough pressure, it should stall the engine.

Also test (with the engine off) that the EGR valve travels smoothly. It's somewhat imprecise, but again, depress it with your hand, and see if you can notice movement that isn't smooth.
 
On the intake manifold somewhere, fairly large bell/mushroom shaped piece of metal. Should be one vacuum line running to it.
 
Check the MAP sensor vacuum hose and electrical connector. This can cause your same symptoms. Make sure the vacuum hose is connceted and that it isn't plugged. Make sure the electrical connector is plugged in tightly.
 
Never rely on codes to indicate actual problems.

Nice if you get one, but not always going to happen.

Does your "check engine" light come on before you start the engine, with the key in "run"?
 
no, it does not. probably means no codes ehh? i am gonna check on the egr tomorrow and make sure there is no leaks anywhere.
 
if your check engine light doesn't come on when the key is in the run position then you have a problem already. It should come on then once the engine is started it should go out and only come on again if a code is stored. Not always is a code stored like Dorian has already said.
 
Yep, first you need to fix the check engine light problem.

More than likely the bulb is burned out, it was probably on constantly at some point, problem was never fixed, so the bulb just burnt out.

Once you fix the bulb issue, then you can see if there are any codes. They tend to point you in a general direction, which never hurts.

The "bulb test" is what you should see with the key in run, not start. If it fails that, either your ECM is bad, or the bulb is. Likely the bulb.
 
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