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Tcase Bolts

looks like they would do what you want much easier than safety wire. I haven't tried them but I might. is the $17 for 2 ? So close to $80 for figure 8.

If you have studs now I wonder if nut in that style would work?
 
Wes Harden said:
looks like they would do what you want much easier than safety wire. I haven't tried them but I might. is the $17 for 2 ? So close to $80 for figure 8.

If you have studs now I wonder if nut in that style would work?
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I thought about doing safety wire, yeah I must have copied the wrong link.

Everytime I go out and use my truck it blows the seal out between the trans and tcase.
 
They work great on headers.
I see no reason why they wouldn't work.
I would probably use safety wire for those.
 
Are your bolts lock tighted in? And when you do that are you cleaning all the oil out of the hole first?
 
Dumb question which bolts are backing out? The four from the adapter to the trans case or the 6 from the adapter to the t-case?

4l60’s and 700’s have shown a problem with the 4 bolt holes on the transmission case for the t-case adapter for not holding threads well. I know my 700 did exactly that. Bolts kept backing out and as it did the leak that developed because the adapter was loose.

The threads in the trans case are just aluminum and naturally soft. I ended up using steel time-sert thread repair inserts. Think heli-coil on steroids. They are the GM way to repair aluminum threads that wipe out on caddy Northstar blocks. They are a little more involved to install but once you do they don’t come back out. Add a lock washer to the bolt and it won’t back out again.

When I put mine in I went 5 years at least and when I went to pull the drivetrain out again the 4 bolts were still tight.
 
bet you a dirty penny your t-case needs a brace on it ti help support it
 
ZooMad75 said:
Dumb question which bolts are backing out? The four from the adapter to the trans case or the 6 from the adapter to the t-case?

4l60’s and 700’s have shown a problem with the 4 bolt holes on the transmission case for the t-case adapter for not holding threads well. I know my 700 did exactly that. Bolts kept backing out and as it did the leak that developed because the adapter was loose.

The threads in the trans case are just aluminum and naturally soft. I ended up using steel time-sert thread repair inserts. Think heli-coil on steroids. They are the GM way to repair aluminum threads that wipe out on caddy Northstar blocks. They are a little more involved to install but once you do they don’t come back out. Add a lock washer to the bolt and it won’t back out again.

When I put mine in I went 5 years at least and when I went to pull the drivetrain out again the 4 bolts were still tight.
Click to expand...
The 6 for the tcase.

I don’t remember if I did it on this tcase or the last one but I Jb welded in studs to the case to make sure those f’ers wouldn’t come out. :haha:
 
Those adapter bolts are the same thread as header bolts?
 
I'm actually about to try and solve this problem too. I've had the transfer case come loose several times as well (6 bolts). I added helicoils last time so at least the threads are good, but I'm going to try locktite this time and hopefully it works. I do have the brace on mine.
 
My recipe that has worked for tons of trucks is studs in the tcase. The stud has coarse threads on one end, shanked, then fine threads on the other. That makes sure the stud gets full thread engagement into the tcase. Loctite the stud in the case. Then the fine thread side gets a flat washer and a stover nut with no loctite.

I’ve got these on the 205 and 203 on the doubler, and on the dodge 205 face and adapter side in the k30.

If I had a problem, nord locks are going to be my solution. Nord locks are on my axle shaft flange bolts.
 
I wonder if your front driveshaft is pushing and pulling enough on the front output shaft that it's walking the case around and making the bolts come loose. Do you have the side brace from the T-case up to a bellhousing bolt? If not, you should. If it's coming loose when you use 4wd but not when you're using 2wd, that'll be a good clue. That front driveshaft is still plunging when you're in 2wd but with no torque to the front end it'll have less resistance. Don't give in to the urge to brace stuff to the frame. Tie the drivetrain together better.
 
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