Sorry, I think I left out that all of the gauges except the oil pressure gauge are still electrical. But, the gauges would not fit in the stock dash with the plastic backing and still using the printed circuit. So, all of the gauges (except the oil pressure gauge) are wired directly to the wiring that connected to the printed circuit.
I don't remember anything referring to a different sender being needed for the electrical gauge when I originally bought and installed the gauge. Also, I only see a "1/2'' fitting & 12' tubing included" for the mechanical gauge on autometer's website. I think this is hopefully just a misunderstanding. My fault for not specifying the new gauge is electrical.
As far as the gauges. I believe they all worked when I installed them a while back. My truck had been sitting a long time after and I ran into issues getting it started back up. Within the past few weeks I replaced the carburetor and managed to get it running again. But, when I turn the key, the needle on the temp gauge moves up diagonally across the last zero of the 100 labeled on the gauge. But, it never moves up or down besides this. However, the other electrical gauges do currently work (Voltmeter, Fuel Level).
I checked the wiring in the dash to the gauge. It goes, the wiring comes out from the plastic protector tube that houses all the dash wiring. Each individual wire connects to new individual wires that then connect directly to the gauge, bypassing the printed circuit that used to be there. These and the connections between the wires and the wires to the gauge look good.
Hopefully this explained it better. I am at a loss as where to check beyond the dash if you or anyone has any advice on where to look?
Thanks again,
Matt