I have it and plan on using it. I also doubt I will be getting airborne anytime soon. Hahahahahah
Why wouldnt GM have made another cross member type thing to go under the Tcase as well for additional support?
CK5
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Th350 removal
- Thread starter TJ1978
- Start date
I have it and plan on using it. I also doubt I will be getting airborne anytime soon. Hahahahahah
Why wouldnt GM have made another cross member type thing to go under the Tcase as well for additional support?
Drive around my area and chances are good you'll catch some air on the streets in town,some have some nasty frost heaves & potholes!..
I have to pull the seat cover out of my butt crack after every time I drive my pickup around,and hit those frost heaves,with its rear spring hanger cobbed back together crudely,until spring comes and I can fix it "right"..
I have to pull the seat cover out of my butt crack after every time I drive my pickup around,and hit those frost heaves,with its rear spring hanger cobbed back together crudely,until spring comes and I can fix it "right"..
I know and Id like to do what he suggested. But at this point what GM had was enough for me. Especially not knowing what length studds, buying those and yet a more questions in this thread.
But honestly I have enough $ for tranny fluid to fill her back up. Im completely tapped out money wise and will be for a while.
All of what Ive done hasnt been ridiculously expensive but cost more than Id like, plus I have 3 kids who need stuff as well.
Not some woe is me story and Im not alone in the financial area. I just dont have cash to do the stud guessing game route at this point. I could easily myself cracking something trying to tap out the holes.
I may regret not doing what he says, time will tell.
But honestly I have enough $ for tranny fluid to fill her back up. Im completely tapped out money wise and will be for a while.
All of what Ive done hasnt been ridiculously expensive but cost more than Id like, plus I have 3 kids who need stuff as well.
Not some woe is me story and Im not alone in the financial area. I just dont have cash to do the stud guessing game route at this point. I could easily myself cracking something trying to tap out the holes.
I may regret not doing what he says, time will tell.
The transmission case will bust before the bolts let go in most cases,unless they loosened up and it was driven like that awhile..
If you retain that truss bar and tighten everything up good, it'll live on the street...GM could have done better by using more than 4 bolts,but they probably decided it was not required,they likely found out in torture testing the transmission case was the weaker point..
-NP-205's are the t-cases that put the worst load on the transmission case,being double the weight of the aluminum t-cases..
If you retain that truss bar and tighten everything up good, it'll live on the street...GM could have done better by using more than 4 bolts,but they probably decided it was not required,they likely found out in torture testing the transmission case was the weaker point..
-NP-205's are the t-cases that put the worst load on the transmission case,being double the weight of the aluminum t-cases..
Would be nice to see a picture of what he is saying suggesting I do...
wasted wages
1 ton status
I think you meant 203's.... 205's don't weigh near as much... A 208 or something like that is what he really needs...
Both of the cast iron T-cases are heavy ingots!...the 203 probably is heavier than a 205..more "guts"..
A NP-208 was coupled to TH350's factory,I think one off a 700R4 will bolt up too,with the right adapter (both are 27 spline)..
A NP-208 was coupled to TH350's factory,I think one off a 700R4 will bolt up too,with the right adapter (both are 27 spline)..
wasted wages
1 ton status
at this point unless you have everything for the swap, driveshafts, shifter etc for the 208, I wouldn't do it.... not if you can't afford 4 studs right now...
I'm sure you would run into a problem or two doing the swap....
I'm sure you would run into a problem or two doing the swap....
I know. It just sparked my interest and after I posted the comment. I thought, even if it only cost $100 to swap I cant afford it anyway.. hahahahah
The more I mull it over. I may just hold off a paycheck or two before putting this all back in and try your suggestions.
What length stud is needed?
Measure from which points?
Is there a chance to crack the Tranny tapping those holes? The bolts only thread in to a certain point so Id have to clear the holes for the stud to go all way through
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There are 2 holes that can go out on the other side and if I remember correctly and I will verify tonight 2 that stop inside.
Those 2 you need to tap all the way.
The other 2 you drill and tap and then put a nut on the outside.
Doing studs definitely is better but you need to measure right because there is no extra space for a stud to stick out too much inside.
As for the np208, it needs a different output shaft on the th350, it was a one year option and while you probably can cut a 2wd shaft down to make it work the adapter also is rare.
Advance Adapters (and others) sell a spacer that allows a TH350 short tailed 2wd or car transmission to bolt up to the NP-208--you must chop off about 1-3/8" of the output shaft to make it the correct length..
That puts the TH350 in the same position as the 700R4 was ,and the same overall length,so the driveshafts will fit without any mods,and the T-case linkage..
This was a popular swap back when the 700r4's first came out and started failing early and easily...people wanted the more durable & reliable TH350 ,and lived with a higher first gear ratio and no overdrive,also car TH350's were readily available then for cheap money compared to the 4x4 versions..
I saw a square body at the salvage yard a few years ago that had just the rolling chassis left,and drive train,it had that spacer and a car TH350--looking back I should have scoffed the spacer at least,if not the TH350 too...buying the spacer kit new is about $90 now..
That puts the TH350 in the same position as the 700R4 was ,and the same overall length,so the driveshafts will fit without any mods,and the T-case linkage..
This was a popular swap back when the 700r4's first came out and started failing early and easily...people wanted the more durable & reliable TH350 ,and lived with a higher first gear ratio and no overdrive,also car TH350's were readily available then for cheap money compared to the 4x4 versions..
I saw a square body at the salvage yard a few years ago that had just the rolling chassis left,and drive train,it had that spacer and a car TH350--looking back I should have scoffed the spacer at least,if not the TH350 too...buying the spacer kit new is about $90 now..
Felt 3 engagements... 1 quart in torq, lubed torque input and pump shaft.
Look right?
View attachment 329769
View attachment 329770
Look right?
View attachment 329769
View attachment 329770
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Straight edge-ish across bolt flange I have 1 1/8 ish across
Front bolt housing to torque flange
Front bolt housing to torque flange
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Yeah looks good will move forward to mate with flex plate when you get there
Ok gentlemen. tranny is in, cross member back in, shift linkage back. Torque converter to flex plate bolted up. Dip stick was snagged on a ground strap bolt... ground strap ended up breaking.
All seems ok, will have to repalce that strap on back of block by passenger valve cover or if anyone knows another spot, Im all ears or how to fix this one..
Got everything in loosely, went back and tightened it all up.
Next: getting the 203 in, then rear driveline and cooler lines, then fluid and fire it up. Oh yeah, Reinstall tranny hump and Tcase shifters and exhaust....
Hopefully it goes... or I start it and well... hahahah
All seems ok, will have to repalce that strap on back of block by passenger valve cover or if anyone knows another spot, Im all ears or how to fix this one..
Got everything in loosely, went back and tightened it all up.
Next: getting the 203 in, then rear driveline and cooler lines, then fluid and fire it up. Oh yeah, Reinstall tranny hump and Tcase shifters and exhaust....
Hopefully it goes... or I start it and well... hahahah
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wasted wages
1 ton status
looking good !
slap some lube on those splines and speedo gears before you stab the transfer case.
vasaline works good...or a couple of squirts of ATF...
slap some lube on those splines and speedo gears before you stab the transfer case.
vasaline works good...or a couple of squirts of ATF...
When I pulled the old stuff apart. The tranny to Tcase adapter was filled with some gray sealant ot something.
Do I need to put a sealant on the adapter to transfer case? Or is mating it up dry just fine?
What type of sealant should be used if I need it?
Do I need to put a sealant on the adapter to transfer case? Or is mating it up dry just fine?
What type of sealant should be used if I need it?
How much oil fills the 203?
I used a paper gasket never had a problem
A paper one is already on the 203... that should suffice then.
