Made it 100 miles, now my trans slips in every gear. Wont hardly move and when it does it slams into gear. And does it very fast on and off. Is it something that could be fixed road side? Filter,valve body loose?
CK5
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Th400 trans/engine crank longitudinal play problems?
- Thread starter down4thakrown
- Start date
Fixed it, not sure if torque converter bolts got a little loose and flex plate pulled t/c off pump or what but I added a thick washer between the t/c and fly wheel and it was good again. Or it just got hot and by time I put the washer in it cooled down enough
if that the case you got other problems adding washers to that area = something not right under there .
Yea idk what, I've never seen a trans act like that. It's like it would slip and then it would grab for a moment and slip again.
In all gears, even reverse. But it ran good the rest of the way after, going 50-60mph for almost 2 hours
I seen this one other time my buddy josh got a short bed that had a rebuilt trans in it for a POS of a truck in trade. Guy put a trans in the short bed and it did the same thing. Pulled it and had it rebuilt and it did the same thing afterwards. Trans guy said to pull it back out but he didn't want to so took a huge loss and traded my friend. Anyways my friend did exactly what you did and drove it for a few years before selling it
Im hoping it holds. Even when it was running it sounded like a chattering noise was coming from trans. Now it doesnt. When it happend I was climbing a long steep hill reving it out in 2nd at about 4k rpms
What transmission?
Th400
Sounds like the torque converter snout isn't engaging the pump enough--maybe adding washers made it go in far enough on the two slots to drive the pump right--is the flex plate mounted facing the right side towards the trans..?...at any rate I'm sure some metal filings were made as a result--those wont help it last longer..
Yea I'm pretty sure some made it in there. But I hammerd on it all wknd and it made the entire 150mile trip back home with no problems at all.
Well that didn't last long, trans started slipping again, like it did before as stated above. 
But now it won't move at all. Tried loosening bolts and spinning t/c but no luck. Doesn't do anything or feel like it goes into gear. I'm going to pull the pan and check filter and valve body. Is it possible the pump moves back? Or sheer the teeth/notches on pump or t/c? I've been hammering on it since the trip and driving it hard... No matter what I pretty sure its getting pulled and built...by a reputable trans shop with goodies
Looks like my "annual truck upgrade stimulus package" won't be going towards brand new swampers.......
But now it won't move at all. Tried loosening bolts and spinning t/c but no luck. Doesn't do anything or feel like it goes into gear. I'm going to pull the pan and check filter and valve body. Is it possible the pump moves back? Or sheer the teeth/notches on pump or t/c? I've been hammering on it since the trip and driving it hard... No matter what I pretty sure its getting pulled and built...by a reputable trans shop with goodiesLooks like my "annual truck upgrade stimulus package" won't be going towards brand new swampers.......
Ok wow, so in bolted t/c again I was jus messing around with a pry bar try to see if I can get t/c to go further on the pump. So I applying slight pressure and "clunk" the whole crank on my motor moves forward and back pretty easily. And the t/c barely engages the pump... I don't think cranks are suppose to move that easily. Could it be the balancer bolt is loose? Or is my motor on its way out?????
Also feels like punp isn't seating onto pump all the way. Is it possible that the torque converter could be wrong? I got it from summit for a th400. I can't remember if it ever felt like it was seating right or not. But is it possible that they are different size pump notches?
How much is the crank moving in and out? They will move but only slightly.
That movement is controlled by a special bearing(that I can't remember that name of) inside the engine, so no it cannot be caused by the balancer bolt being loose. Depending on how much play it could be a sign the engine is going.
That movement is controlled by a special bearing(that I can't remember that name of) inside the engine, so no it cannot be caused by the balancer bolt being loose. Depending on how much play it could be a sign the engine is going.
thrust bearing
and thrust flange on crank rides on it .
if heavy wear or some cases broken = bad stuff.
and thrust flange on crank rides on it .
if heavy wear or some cases broken = bad stuff.
Thrust bearing faces on the crankshaft or bearing (or both most likely),are worn and allowing too much end play,if there is more than ,say,.020 (not sure what the exact specs are)--if its possible to pull the crank in and out more than that by pulling and pushing on the flexplate or balancer--bad news...your engine needs a crankshaft and new bearings...and that'll usually trash the torque converter and or front pump in the trans...
I've seen a few TH400 big block trucks wear out the thrust bearing rapidly,in one instance the engine builder blamed the torque converter,said it "balloons" under extreme load,also restricted tranny cooler lines can cause pressure to build up and push on the crankshaft--the tranny rebuilder blamed excess end play, on the bottom end being the cause..said the rebuilder should have noticed too much play and corrected it by installing a new or reground crank with new bearings..
A friend had a '63 T-bird with a 390 that had almost half an inch of end play--he was determined to drive it till it blew--the oil light went on every time you took a corner,and it knocked like a woodpecker--I think the fan belts were about all that kept the crank aligned!..despite the slop,it didn't chuck belts,and the C-6 tranny seemed unaffected by the excess play...he sold it after 2 years,sounding the same way as it did when he bought it...
..
I've also seen a few cars with manual trannies wear out the thrust bearing surfaces--when you sit at a red light with the clutch pushed in,the pressure plate transfers forward pressure to the engine crank shaft ,and it can wear the bearing out fairly quickly once it gets loose..last one I saw was a '67 Mustang that had a straight six & 3 speed,the engine would grind to a halt and stall when you pushed the clutch in--the owner was actually pleased,because he'd been wanting to yank the six out and put a V8 in it..
I've seen a few TH400 big block trucks wear out the thrust bearing rapidly,in one instance the engine builder blamed the torque converter,said it "balloons" under extreme load,also restricted tranny cooler lines can cause pressure to build up and push on the crankshaft--the tranny rebuilder blamed excess end play, on the bottom end being the cause..said the rebuilder should have noticed too much play and corrected it by installing a new or reground crank with new bearings..
A friend had a '63 T-bird with a 390 that had almost half an inch of end play--he was determined to drive it till it blew--the oil light went on every time you took a corner,and it knocked like a woodpecker--I think the fan belts were about all that kept the crank aligned!..despite the slop,it didn't chuck belts,and the C-6 tranny seemed unaffected by the excess play...he sold it after 2 years,sounding the same way as it did when he bought it...
..I've also seen a few cars with manual trannies wear out the thrust bearing surfaces--when you sit at a red light with the clutch pushed in,the pressure plate transfers forward pressure to the engine crank shaft ,and it can wear the bearing out fairly quickly once it gets loose..last one I saw was a '67 Mustang that had a straight six & 3 speed,the engine would grind to a halt and stall when you pushed the clutch in--the owner was actually pleased,because he'd been wanting to yank the six out and put a V8 in it..
Yea it moves more then it takes for the t/c to engage pump. So I'm pretty sure its causeing t/c to pull off the pump. Well looks like its getting a 5.3 or 6.0 and a built th400
