CK5
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I decided to build it out using some hand-me-down parts from my '87 K5. So I began building components... I bought a front dana 44 with 4.10 gears and rebuilt it. I used the K5's 14bolt and rebuilt it, keeping the Detroit locker. I took the K5's SM465 and rebuilt that with the long 32-spline output shaft. I took the K5's NP205 and rebuilt it with a 32-spline input shaft (I hate the 10-spline coupler). I also took the K5's 383 (originally the same TBI 350 as in the Suburban) and rebuilt it to get more top-end power.
Building all of these components without touching the destination truck really saved a lot of space in my garage. I was able to drive the Suburban until all of these were done.
Donor SM465 on tear-down:
The axles:
Rear springs getting cleaned up:
Painted SM465 case and rear springs:
Started in on the front differential -- it was sitting with water inside for some time:
Painted 14bolt, cleaned dana 44 and a painted SM465:
Rebuilt SM465 and NP205 mated with the ORD 32-spline adapter:
Building all of these components without touching the destination truck really saved a lot of space in my garage. I was able to drive the Suburban until all of these were done.
Donor SM465 on tear-down:
The axles:
Rear springs getting cleaned up:
Painted SM465 case and rear springs:
Started in on the front differential -- it was sitting with water inside for some time:
Painted 14bolt, cleaned dana 44 and a painted SM465:
Rebuilt SM465 and NP205 mated with the ORD 32-spline adapter:
Now for the engine. I got lucky when I found this Suburban -- it's the same year as my K5, which is torn down for a future project. In 2005, I built my K5's grenaded 350 motor to a 383. Besides some tuning, a new fuel pump and some headers, the engine remained the same as the original 350. I loved the low-end torque, but it ceased to make any power beyond 3500 RPM or so. I put maybe 10k miles on that motor over 15 years, but I decided I could just refresh it.
The block back from machinist with new cam bearings and some paint:
Reusing the 383 crank, rods and pistons. I cleaned the pistons with acetone and a plastic brush:
Rotating assembly in, and posts drilled and tapped for the roller lifter retainer (yes, the top one is a little off, but the retainer works):
New Edelbrock E-tec aluminum heads on and lifters added:
Intake (GMPP vortec), valve covers, timing cover and balancer installed. Yeah, I went with a little bling, but at least I'm staying away from chrome BS. Haha. I hate those stamped timing covers, so I went with a nice aluminum one. I had the intake top ports bored to 2" to match the new TBI I'm putting on.
New coil and a 454 TBI with adjustable FPR:
Aluminum water pump and an EGR that is now on the front, vortec style:
Additionally, notice the value and chamber size difference between the stock heads and these E-tecs:
The block back from machinist with new cam bearings and some paint:
Reusing the 383 crank, rods and pistons. I cleaned the pistons with acetone and a plastic brush:
Rotating assembly in, and posts drilled and tapped for the roller lifter retainer (yes, the top one is a little off, but the retainer works):
New Edelbrock E-tec aluminum heads on and lifters added:
Intake (GMPP vortec), valve covers, timing cover and balancer installed. Yeah, I went with a little bling, but at least I'm staying away from chrome BS. Haha. I hate those stamped timing covers, so I went with a nice aluminum one. I had the intake top ports bored to 2" to match the new TBI I'm putting on.
New coil and a 454 TBI with adjustable FPR:
Aluminum water pump and an EGR that is now on the front, vortec style:
Additionally, notice the value and chamber size difference between the stock heads and these E-tecs:
Time to start in on the Suburban itself. I have limited garage space at the moment, so I used the good weather to do a quick afternoon axle swap on the rear (being prepared was nice). I also pulled the gas tank out because I had to grind out the stock shackle hangers.
14bolt sliding in:
Setting down on the new axle. Currently using my K5's old 36" Super swampers to roll it.
Shackle flip in place with some frame clean-up and paint:
Pretty sweet if you ask me!
14bolt sliding in:
Setting down on the new axle. Currently using my K5's old 36" Super swampers to roll it.
Shackle flip in place with some frame clean-up and paint:
Pretty sweet if you ask me!
With this winter approaching, I backed the Suburban all the way into the garage and started on the front. Remember this image:
Engine pulled and a confused beagle:
I pulled the front clip and core support out for easier access:
We'll be building up from this:
I started cleaning, painting and organizing wires. I also added the frame repair kit for the steering box. It wasn't cracked, but I don't want it to crack.
I put some rust converter and some paint on the frame in this area:
Bolting in ORD's HD engine crossmember and engine mounts:
The engine dropped into place. It's a tight fit with ORD's crossmember and mounts, but that's the point! The gap between the crossmember and oil pan is no more than a piece of cardboard.
Getting the SM465 into place. I already used a large hole saw to make a hole for the SM465 shifter in the trans tunnel:
Great shot of the engine, transmission and transfer case installed. You can see the snug fit of ORD's engine crossmember. Behind that is a stock NP205 crossmember with poly mounts to match the engine's:
I rebuilt the steering pump and swapped in the 2WD model sector shaft. Here it is bolted up to the frame:
Got the front axle rolled in and bolted up:
I relocated the AC pump, so I'm mocking up new compressor mounts and other accessories. I stole the dual V-belt crank pulley from the pulled motor. It's also larger in diameter from the non-AC variant:
Got the hydroboost unit in here... Also got the original brake lines cleaned up and installed. The clutch master cylinder is also installed after using a hole saw to make a spot for it in the firewall. Oh yeah -- headers! You can also see the Bilstein shocks on the front. I currently have them bolted to the front of the truck's quad-shock setup, but that won't provide enough up-travel, so I'll deal with that later.
Engine pulled and a confused beagle:
I pulled the front clip and core support out for easier access:
We'll be building up from this:
I started cleaning, painting and organizing wires. I also added the frame repair kit for the steering box. It wasn't cracked, but I don't want it to crack.
I put some rust converter and some paint on the frame in this area:
Bolting in ORD's HD engine crossmember and engine mounts:
The engine dropped into place. It's a tight fit with ORD's crossmember and mounts, but that's the point! The gap between the crossmember and oil pan is no more than a piece of cardboard.
Getting the SM465 into place. I already used a large hole saw to make a hole for the SM465 shifter in the trans tunnel:
Great shot of the engine, transmission and transfer case installed. You can see the snug fit of ORD's engine crossmember. Behind that is a stock NP205 crossmember with poly mounts to match the engine's:
I rebuilt the steering pump and swapped in the 2WD model sector shaft. Here it is bolted up to the frame:
Got the front axle rolled in and bolted up:
I relocated the AC pump, so I'm mocking up new compressor mounts and other accessories. I stole the dual V-belt crank pulley from the pulled motor. It's also larger in diameter from the non-AC variant:
Got the hydroboost unit in here... Also got the original brake lines cleaned up and installed. The clutch master cylinder is also installed after using a hole saw to make a spot for it in the firewall. Oh yeah -- headers! You can also see the Bilstein shocks on the front. I currently have them bolted to the front of the truck's quad-shock setup, but that won't provide enough up-travel, so I'll deal with that later.
Making sure the engine harness is working and the sensors are at least reporting values. I also verified the working fuel pressure and fuel pump operation (no start yet). The new steering column is in as well -- I took the manual trans column from my K5. I also have the clutch pedal in, but it's hard to see:
Radiator core support going back in, with some upgraded lights from LMC. I'm trying my luck with the original AC condenser right now. Also, I'm running new wires for the headlights to run off a relay:
Original radiator and new Derale electric fans. This kit bolted up to the radiator perfectly:
And now to clean up this wiring:
So that's it. That's where I am at the time of this post! Up next is finishing the engine wiring, ensuring the gauge cluster works. I'll also be adding vacuum, fuel pressure and Wideband o2 gauges. Also taking care of other things before I can fire it up!
Radiator core support going back in, with some upgraded lights from LMC. I'm trying my luck with the original AC condenser right now. Also, I'm running new wires for the headlights to run off a relay:
Original radiator and new Derale electric fans. This kit bolted up to the radiator perfectly:
And now to clean up this wiring:
So that's it. That's where I am at the time of this post! Up next is finishing the engine wiring, ensuring the gauge cluster works. I'll also be adding vacuum, fuel pressure and Wideband o2 gauges. Also taking care of other things before I can fire it up!
Quick update on what I’m doing next... I’ve got a radius arm traction bar kit arriving from ORD today. I’ll try to get the mount on the axle while it’s under the vehicle, but I’m prepared to pull that rear axle out again to get it done. I haven’t even torqued those u-bolts yet.
Once that’s in, I can finish the dual exhaust, as it’ll be easier to route around the traction bar. Since I’m running oxygen sensors, I’d like a certain amount of exhaust built before I fire up this motor for the first time.
Expect more progress and pictures soon! I really need to get this out of the garage.
Once that’s in, I can finish the dual exhaust, as it’ll be easier to route around the traction bar. Since I’m running oxygen sensors, I’d like a certain amount of exhaust built before I fire up this motor for the first time.
Expect more progress and pictures soon! I really need to get this out of the garage.
Nicely done! 
So I was working on getting the traction bar's crossmember bolted in and I nicked the rear (hard) brake line, enough to feel uneasy about running it. LMC sells them, but only as a full kit.
Does anybody know where I can get a single section of this line?
Or as an alternative, I'm considering running a short section of braided line and cut/flare the end of the rest of the hard line. This would actually be ideal since there are now some bolts at slightly obstruct the hard line's original path.
By the way, this traction bar is an absolute unit:
Does anybody know where I can get a single section of this line?
Or as an alternative, I'm considering running a short section of braided line and cut/flare the end of the rest of the hard line. This would actually be ideal since there are now some bolts at slightly obstruct the hard line's original path.
By the way, this traction bar is an absolute unit:
Nice work. I dig manual subs.
So my traction bar kit was missing some parts. A quick call to ORD and they’ve sent the rest out. While I’m waiting on that I decided I could build enough of the exhaust to get my o2 sensors in and the engine fired up.
A major part of this engine swap includes moving to the ‘7427 ECM. I double checked all of the wires to the new ECM, got the Moates chip adapter in and burned a chip based on the same engine but without the new mods.
I set the fuel pressure regulator to about 14psi as a baseline, as I’ve got the 454 tbi and injectors on it. Filled the coolant, engine oil and trans oil and got it fired up!
i did have to track down some issues with the injectors not firing, but it basically came down to seating all of the wires into the ECM connector fully.
I set the timing to zero as per TBI spec and let it warm up. It turns out I have a rad leak near the top inlet. I need to inspect the rad there or even just continue to bleed the air from the coolant and maybe the antifreeze will seal it up.
I’ll post a vid once I iron out some of this stuff!
A major part of this engine swap includes moving to the ‘7427 ECM. I double checked all of the wires to the new ECM, got the Moates chip adapter in and burned a chip based on the same engine but without the new mods.
I set the fuel pressure regulator to about 14psi as a baseline, as I’ve got the 454 tbi and injectors on it. Filled the coolant, engine oil and trans oil and got it fired up!
i did have to track down some issues with the injectors not firing, but it basically came down to seating all of the wires into the ECM connector fully.
I set the timing to zero as per TBI spec and let it warm up. It turns out I have a rad leak near the top inlet. I need to inspect the rad there or even just continue to bleed the air from the coolant and maybe the antifreeze will seal it up.
I’ll post a vid once I iron out some of this stuff!
Quick update... I've got all of the parts now to finish the traction bar (USPS is reaaaalllly backed up). I'll be working on that this week, but while I'm back there, I need to figure out the rear bumpstop situation.
Since the axle perches are offset from the frame rail in the rear, I figure that an offset mount for the bump stops would be needed. BUT -- I'd like to eventually do some towing with this rig, and the rear springs won't hold up the tongue weight of a loaded trailer. So I'm considering an airbag setup. Has anyone done this before? Will a good airbag system that reduces squat be sufficient for a bump stop as well?
Since the axle perches are offset from the frame rail in the rear, I figure that an offset mount for the bump stops would be needed. BUT -- I'd like to eventually do some towing with this rig, and the rear springs won't hold up the tongue weight of a loaded trailer. So I'm considering an airbag setup. Has anyone done this before? Will a good airbag system that reduces squat be sufficient for a bump stop as well?
