The Great Smaug

[campfire]

And I'm reposting the speedometer gear color chart. Thanks again, Luke.

Driven gears (700R-4 or 208 transfer case)
-----------------------------------------
teeth Gear color GM part #
34 Green 9774413
35 Orange 9780387
36 Natural 1359270
37 Red 1359271
38 Blue 1359272
39 Brown 1359273
40 Black 1362048, 25513047
41 Yellow 1362195
42 Green 1362049, 25513049
43 Purple 1362196, 25513050
44 Grey 9780470
45 Lt. Blue 9775187

Drive Gears
-----------
15 Gray
17 Red
18 Blue
19 Yellow

But I think only the Gray and Blue were available for GM 208s. The Dodge 208 had other options, but it is slightly shorter. I think you can make a spacer and use the Dodge gear if that's all you can find.

 

[TerryD]

Everybody has swing-out arms. In addition to being boring & common, they cannot be easily opened from inside the vehicle. Since this will have a platform bed in the back, access from inside is mandatory.

Also, by the time you hoist the tire high enough to clear the bumper, it blocks a bunch of visibility. I think a rear swing tire has a bigger blind spot than my front mount will. I'm not yet sure which view is more valuable, so I'll hafta do some mockup before I pick a design.

Either way will require some structural work, but I'm already planning on adding steel to the front, so there will be less hackery if I put it there.

Cooling should not be an issue. This truck has way too big (and wide) of a radiator, and my region doesn't have hot days like yours does. I ran quite a while without a fan. This time I'm removing the A/C condenser and the tranny cooler, plus the proper fan and shroud. I should have gobs of extra cooling ability.

I also give 50% odds that I'll throw electric fans on here. I could stagger the tire to one side and the primary fan to the other side.

I completely understand what you're saying about the swingouts. Firstly, there is a reason everyone is using them instead of the front mounted spare: They work.... Second, you're pretty bright so I'm sure you could rig up a way to prop them open during the night so you could open the rear doors in the morning. PERSONALLY, I'd exit through the rear side doors and have your fridge and other gear against the back where you don't have to worry about opening the rears from the inside. That's my $0.02 and I'll offer a refund on it.

Otherwise, great build man. Really looking forward to seeing whatever you decide to do to it!

 

[campfire]

I completely understand what you're saying about the swingouts. Firstly, there is a reason everyone is using them instead of the front mounted spare: They work.... Second, you're pretty bright so I'm sure you could rig up a way to prop them open during the night so you could open the rear doors in the morning. PERSONALLY, I'd exit through the rear side doors and have your fridge and other gear against the back where you don't have to worry about opening the rears from the inside. That's my $0.02 and I'll offer a refund on it.

Otherwise, great build man. Really looking forward to seeing whatever you decide to do to it!

Thanks. One thing I can promise...I'll overthink it until I hate every possible option.

 

[campfire]

I completely understand what you're saying about the swingouts. Firstly, there is a reason everyone is using them instead of the front mounted spare: They work.... Second, you're pretty bright so I'm sure you could rig up a way to prop them open during the night so you could open the rear doors in the morning. PERSONALLY, I'd exit through the rear side doors and have your fridge and other gear against the back where you don't have to worry about opening the rears from the inside. That's my $0.02 and I'll offer a refund on it.

Otherwise, great build man. Really looking forward to seeing whatever you decide to do to it!

I don't wanna depend on leaving them swung out all the time, but I don't need both of them open to escape from the back. I think I can put the tire on the port side without blocking the starboard door at all. So a single half-width swing-out would fit the bill. Though it would block the view squarely behind the driver.

 

[Chevy305]

Put the tire on the roof

 

[TerryD]

I don't wanna depend on leaving them swung out all the time, but I don't need both of them open to escape from the back. I think I can put the tire on the port side without blocking the starboard door at all. So a single half-width swing-out would fit the bill. Though it would block the view squarely behind the driver.

Three words:
Wireless backup camera.

 

[ZooMad75]

I don't wanna depend on leaving them swung out all the time, but I don't need both of them open to escape from the back. I think I can put the tire on the port side without blocking the starboard door at all. So a single half-width swing-out would fit the bill. Though it would block the view squarely behind the driver.

You aren't doing anything that hasn't already been done. You can do a swingout on one side only. That's probably what I'm going to do. Look at Larry's setup. He's got one on each side, latched in the center. In the case of being on a Burb, one side could be opened to open the passenger side door.

Then once it is open you can add a small gas strut to keep it open.

Getting back to an earlier response to my statement about mounting the spare on the front. Yes it was a GM option. That don't make it a smart idea. There is a better option. Compromising cooling because you don't want to keep a tire inside or out back is just not the way to go. Look at it this way, outside of Chalet's how many squarebodies do you see running around with a front mounted spare? 1 in 500? 1 in 1000? I know I don't see any.

On another note, as far as visibility out of the rear of a Suburban there isn't much. Your idea of putting the spare on the drivers side is going to cause the least mount of loss of visibility. Hinge kits are available through multiple sources online.

 

[campfire]

Look at it this way, outside of Chalet's how many squarebodies do you see running around with a front mounted spare? 1 in 500? 1 in 1000? I know I don't see any.

Later squares? Hardly any. But I've seen plenty of older trucks. I assumed it was a styling trend that fell out of favor. But I wasn't alive yet when they disappeared, so I have no insight as to why.

 

[campfire]

@Stomis, can you confirm that this is still the right coupling for connecting to the GM internal slave on the NV3500?

That guy there

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/add-716130/overview/

The almighty interwebs are telling me (conflictingly) that this part is for Jeeps, while GM guys need this shorter one:

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/RUS-640281/

But that might or might not be just for T56 transmissions.


I've tried 5 or 6 times to carefully cut & peel back the braided webbing on my practice line, and I keep slicing through the plastic underneath.






So the cut-n-splice method may not be my best route forward. I have the long-hose version of the slave, so I can easily adapt it directly to the M/C hard line.

I am thinking your early-model S/C has the smaller roll-pin coupling. The LS-series NV3500 slaves have a larger fitting with a sleeve instead of a roll pin.

Thus are my thoughts tonight.

 

[Vombrown]

You aren't doing anything that hasn't already been done. You can do a swingout on one side only. That's probably what I'm going to do. Look at Larry's setup. He's got one on each side, latched in the center. In the case of being on a Burb, one side could be opened to open the passenger side door.

Then once it is open you can add a small gas strut to keep it open.

Getting back to an earlier response to my statement about mounting the spare on the front. Yes it was a GM option. That don't make it a smart idea. There is a better option. Compromising cooling because you don't want to keep a tire inside or out back is just not the way to go. Look at it this way, outside of Chalet's how many squarebodies do you see running around with a front mounted spare? 1 in 500? 1 in 1000? I know I don't see any.

On another note, as far as visibility out of the rear of a Suburban there isn't much. Your idea of putting the spare on the drivers side is going to cause the least mount of loss of visibility. Hinge kits are available through multiple sources online.

I'm guessing the front mounted tire is a regional thing. Here in Montana it's VERY popular. I see trucks with front mounted spares every time I go to town. Now in this climate, cooling isn't really an issue at all. In fact a little restriction in the front makes it so that your heater actually works in winter. I've asked several about it here and the resounding response seems to be that it frees up the bed for more stuff. Others have mentioned using them in cattle fields to bump cows. However you look at it people are still doing it, in my area at least.

 

[83ChevyK5Blazer]

A 2005/6 gto slave cylinder/throw out has a threaded fitting. That is what I used on my nv3500 swap.

Then you just need an adapter fitting and hose to the master cylinder.

 

[campfire]

A 2005/6 gto slave cylinder/throw out has a threaded fitting. That is what I used on my nv3500 swap.

Then you just need an adapter fitting and hose to the master cylinder.

Oh. The S/C from the Pontiac 6-speed bolts onto the late-model internal-slave NV3500? Umm...that looks like a great idea! Pity I already bought the Silverado slave.

 

[83ChevyK5Blazer]

I tried using the truck one and couldn't get the adapter to work, so I bought the Pontiac one.

 

[campfire]

I tried using the truck one and couldn't get the adapter to work, so I bought the Pontiac one.

Noted. Were you trying the quick-connect adapter or the compression fitting adapter?

 

[83ChevyK5Blazer]

It was the one you have to drive the roll pin out and replace the fitting.

I tried to different ones and then bought the gto one an a AN adapter and was done

 

[campfire]

I need to look up some DB2 tech. The lever at the side of the IP isn't returning after I cycle the input (going up, but not returning unless I manipulate it). Which seems like a red flag, but I don't remember which side of the governor that linkage is on.

View attachment 261284

Since sitting for a couple years this IP has gotten stuck wide open a few times, though I think it was the throttle cable that bound up.

For my reference, this linkage:

Is the "rocker lever" and it bumps the timing during light load. It does not appear in the general Stanadyne manual, as it wasn't used on all DB2 pumps. But, as usual, the military manuals fill in the gap.

References:

https://www.steelsoldiers.com/upload/CUCV/TM9-2815-237-34.pdf (page 106)
http://www.motormayhem.net/2009/10/11/stanadyne-db2-fuel-injection-pump/
http://www.radionerds.com/images/f/f4/Stanadyne_db2_operation_and_instructions_manuals.pdf


The old throttle cable sheath snapped, so that explains the sticky pedal.

 

[campfire]

A 2005/6 gto slave cylinder/throw out has a threaded fitting. That is what I used on my nv3500 swap.

Then you just need an adapter fitting and hose to the master cylinder.

Turns out the GTO slave uses an M10 flare fitting. The stock squarebody clutch slave line uses an M12 flare fitting. I think the stock line is a few inches too short, but even so it's one short adapter line away from being a bolt-on setup.

Thanks again for pointing that out!

 

[campfire]

Here are those engine bay pictures, @GWeakland620.

The main steering brace, as seen from above. The big bolt running into the cross member (supplied by ORD) was too big to fit through the bushing (also supplied by ORD), so I had to redrill the brace.



Here is the smaller brace on the forward side. Sandwiched between the cross member and the bumper bracket. I had to move the bracket forward to get the brace underneath, and then the bracket holes didn't line up. So I redrilled those also. This means I will need to realign my bumper when all is said and done.



Did that answer your questions?


On to my new motor mounts.

 

[GWeakland620]

Looks like a nice install. Now if only those mounts were doing what they do best.

 

[campfire]

Looks like a nice install. Now if only those mounts were doing what they do best.

Carrying weight and resisting motion? Give it a few more days, we're in the home stretch now.