CK5
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The Great Smaug
- Thread starter campfire
- Start date
Yeah, I'm just daydreaming. The spare axle I took from my ex's truck, I got the diesel rig just trading stuff. Bought the used banks kit for a grand, and the new turbo for $400 shipped.
The 4x I bought for a grand, and @$450 plus shipping for the 4500. Plus the pedal assembly and a few odds and ends for the swap.
It's safe to say I have less than 6k in both of them. I could never drop that much dough for the Optimizer, unless the truck was an absolute pristine survivor rig. I like to daydream out loud sometimes.
Now if the overtime goes through the roof....lol
The 4x I bought for a grand, and @$450 plus shipping for the 4500. Plus the pedal assembly and a few odds and ends for the swap.
It's safe to say I have less than 6k in both of them. I could never drop that much dough for the Optimizer, unless the truck was an absolute pristine survivor rig. I like to daydream out loud sometimes.
Now if the overtime goes through the roof....lol
This thread is now 6 weeks out of date. This truck has been on daily driver duty this summer (probably 500 miles in the last couple months). The fuel leak was a brass fitting that split in half (perhaps it didn't like the vibration?). I've checked the radiator every week and have not found it pressurized like last summer. Not sure what changed. 
The remote solenoid works perfectly, but the original solenoid now fails to fully engage the bendix at least half the time. So starting is a pain. I bought a brand new chinese knockoff starter from Oreilly Auto. When I turn in their failed rebuilt starter for a warranty refund the new starter should cost me a net total of 85 cents (with the same lifetime warranty). I guess prices have dropped since 2014. If I count correctly this will be the 14th time I've installed a 6.2 starter. 
Aside from the starter it's running as well as it ever has. It's still slow, it still has too much body roll, and it still sounds awesome!
The remote solenoid works perfectly, but the original solenoid now fails to fully engage the bendix at least half the time. So starting is a pain. I bought a brand new chinese knockoff starter from Oreilly Auto. When I turn in their failed rebuilt starter for a warranty refund the new starter should cost me a net total of 85 cents (with the same lifetime warranty). I guess prices have dropped since 2014.
If I count correctly this will be the 14th time I've installed a 6.2 starter. Aside from the starter it's running as well as it ever has. It's still slow, it still has too much body roll, and it still sounds awesome!
This week we're starting the interior build. I'm refining my ideas for a rear platform (with separate electrical system) and I've started working on the cockpit. The front bench seat is gone, so I won't need to sit on its wretched steel frame anymore. I have test fitted my spare set of bucket seats. I forgot that both of the inboard seat mounts require an extra bracket to level the seats out, so each seat can only be bolted into the two outboard holes (unless you like sitting off-camber). I'm determined to keep my middle seatbelt, so I will be looking for a compatible middle seat (or a full set). But the temporary seats are lots more comfy than sitting on the steel seat frame! 
I have a bunch of nickle-and-dime things to finish up. Like installing the sway bar and the rear G80.
But next up should be putting gauges into the gauge cluster. Because boost!
I have a bunch of nickle-and-dime things to finish up. Like installing the sway bar and the rear G80.
But next up should be putting gauges into the gauge cluster. Because boost!
Starter #14 is a dud. Drive gear is too tightly meshed with the flywheel. If I understand correctly, 27MT starters on early 6.2 engines were sometimes shimmed (but never more than 0.060"). But fairly quickly GM declared this a non-shimmable engine, and the 28MT gear reduction starters were never shimmed. It makes sense, these motors have a 3kW power rating (compare that to 2.2kW for a Dmax or 1.4kW for an 8.1 engine). And the vertical mounting bolts are not the sturdiest mounting solution. This pig sees a lot of torque, and it needs to be tight to the block. And, despite having a machined mounting surface, it's not machined correctly. Sigh.
So...I called up Oreilly Auto and I'm going to swap this "new" Chinese knockoff unit for another "new" Chinese knockoff unit. Which would be starter installation #15. Not counting that this one was installed twice thanks to the bracket stud snapping.
I'm still taking recommendations if anyone still makes quality starters for these unloved boat anchor engines.
On the bright side, my cycle times are improving. I spent most of an hour removing it the first time, while the third removal only took 20 minutes!
So I believe mine is done too.Starter #14 is a dud. Drive gear is too tightly meshed with the flywheel. If I understand correctly, 27MT starters on early 6.2 engines were sometimes shimmed (but never more than 0.060"). But fairly quickly GM declared this a non-shimmable engine, and the 28MT gear reduction starters were never shimmed. It makes sense, these motors have a 3kW power rating (compare that to 2.2kW for a Dmax or 1.4kW for an 8.1 engine). And the vertical mounting bolts are not the sturdiest mounting solution. This pig sees a lot of torque, and it needs to be tight to the block. And, despite having a machined mounting surface, it's not machined correctly. Sigh.
So...I called up Oreilly Auto and I'm going to swap this "new" Chinese knockoff unit for another "new" Chinese knockoff unit. Which would be starter installation #15. Not counting that this one was installed twice thanks to the bracket stud snapping.
I'm still taking recommendations if anyone still makes quality starters for these unloved boat anchor engines.
What is yours doing?
Mine is just turning over slow no matter how many batteries jump starting same slow speed, like one or 2 windings are done
It has the high-pitched metallic whine/grinding sound of teeth binding. I started the engine half a dozen times, and it consistently whined. Three times the solenoid stuck closed after the engine started (so the starter was spinning at engine speed). This would have meant pulling off the battery cable if I didn't have my handy remote solenoid to cut the power. And one time the solenoid stuck open and it freewheeled like the old starter did. Tonight I noticed new scrapes on some of the flywheel teeth.
Can it be shimmed? Probably. But I have no guarantee that would work, and it's not the recommended practice. So I will do yet another warranty exchange.
I had a lot of trouble with my starter on my 02 Duramax. Went through the original and two aftermarkets. Finally destroyed my ring gear.
Replaced the ring gear and got a starter from GM.
All happy now.
The cheaper starters cost more than anything saved.
Replaced the ring gear and got a starter from GM.
All happy now.
The cheaper starters cost more than anything saved.
I would have done that years ago if I had confidence I could get a high-quality new starter. Even the new AC Delco units (P/N 3371002) are Chinese knockoffs now.
I've donated hundreds of dollars of my labor to these cheapie starter motors. And now I also have scratching on my flywheel teeth. Imagine if I had let that starter go for a few months, until teeth started breaking off...
It also is doing that, grinding and skipping sometimes.
So I guess I should have called it right then. Instead I spent days charging the batteries and putting the charger on as well to help.
I should have known since it was starting smooth for a long time and suddenly started grinding and skipping.
And mine is the gear reduction 28mt
I would have done that years ago if I had confidence I could get a high-quality new starter. Even the new AC Delco units (P/N 3371002) are Chinese knockoffs now.
I hear you there. All I do know is that I haven’t had and bad things happen to me when I got parts from the dealer. Can’t say the same from big chain auto parts stores.
I've donated hundreds of dollars of my labor to these cheapie starter motors. And now I also have scratching on my flywheel teeth. Imagine if I had let that starter go for a few months, until teeth started breaking off...
I let mine go untill it was...are you even going to start you POS!?? Then it was a lot more than hundreds. Shops labor, then my own to do it again after the trans converter didn’t like process and decided to puke oil everywhere.
If a good starter abruptly started grinding, I'd look for a loose brace. The brace is what restrains the motor from tilting back and forth. Perhaps yours has shifted?
I did look at it and it was tight no idea if it shifted though.
I have another starter that came with the other engine I will give it a try
My extra 3" exhaust pipe eats up the space the battery cable normally occupies, so the cable sits in front of the brace. The 13mm block bolt is downright annoying to access right now.
I'd think you have a similar problem since you have the same ATS turbo manifold...
Yeah I made a different cable and routed it different.
I just took the starter off:
Brace bolt was loose.
The solenoid was missing one of 2 bolts so wasn't engaging correctly.
I am going to go through the starter, test the windings, clean it up grease it and if it checks out I will put it back in.
If not I will do the same to the spare, pretty sure between the two I can make a good one.
So do you have a front/rear seat? I have a set from a Tahoe that aren't in bad shape. You can have them if you want them.This week we're starting the interior build. I'm refining my ideas for a rear platform (with separate electrical system) and I've started working on the cockpit. The front bench seat is gone, so I won't need to sit on its wretched steel frame anymore. I have test fitted my spare set of bucket seats. I forgot that both of the inboard seat mounts require an extra bracket to level the seats out, so each seat can only be bolted into the two outboard holes (unless you like sitting off-camber). I'm determined to keep my middle seatbelt, so I will be looking for a compatible middle seat (or a full set). But the temporary seats are lots more comfy than sitting on the steel seat frame!
I have a bunch of nickle-and-dime things to finish up. Like installing the sway bar and the rear G80.
But next up should be putting gauges into the gauge cluster. Because boost!
More frustration this week. Starter #15 acted exactly like #14. First crank spun out, second crank stayed engaged until I shut the engine off (6 or 8 seconds). Lacking other ideas, I kept cycling it. After a few rounds it would release, so I started driving it to work. It still occasionally spins out, and the sound is a bit off. But it hasn't stuck in the engaged position since that first day. We'll see how well it lasts. It does crank more quickly than the old one.
I also wired up 3 new gauges. This took a lot more time than I expected, and the results aren't great. But I now have dual voltmeters and a TinyTach installed into the stock gauge cluster. Here is test fitting the bezel:
The big gauges are too far to the left, and the small gauges are too far to the right. The truck has always had this fitment problem, and it hasn't bothered me (it's a little better with that top center screw tightened. But now I've made it worse by setting the voltmeter off-center.
That combines with the voltmeter being a little too far inboard to produce a very lopsided feel. It's not as bad as the picture makes it look, and the bezel will shift rightward when the screws are installed. But it's still wrong on both sides of the cluster. Lesson for next time, err on the side of putting the gauge further left rather than further right, as the driver's view is angled that direction.
Honestly, it probably wouldn't be noticeable if I didn't have my special silver reflector around the gauges. I'm guessing that's why GM painted the original one black, to hide their fitment issues.
And the crack says that speeds below 25MPH don't count.
The pigtail is for my pyrometer. It will join the boost gauge in a dash pod.
I also wired up 3 new gauges. This took a lot more time than I expected, and the results aren't great. But I now have dual voltmeters and a TinyTach installed into the stock gauge cluster. Here is test fitting the bezel:
The big gauges are too far to the left, and the small gauges are too far to the right. The truck has always had this fitment problem, and it hasn't bothered me (it's a little better with that top center screw tightened. But now I've made it worse by setting the voltmeter off-center.
That combines with the voltmeter being a little too far inboard to produce a very lopsided feel. It's not as bad as the picture makes it look, and the bezel will shift rightward when the screws are installed. But it's still wrong on both sides of the cluster. Lesson for next time, err on the side of putting the gauge further left rather than further right, as the driver's view is angled that direction.
Honestly, it probably wouldn't be noticeable if I didn't have my special silver reflector around the gauges. I'm guessing that's why GM painted the original one black, to hide their fitment issues.
And the crack says that speeds below 25MPH don't count.
The pigtail is for my pyrometer. It will join the boost gauge in a dash pod.
