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The Green Grendel

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Csm Davis said:
Yeah the military even bypassed the resistors in most of the cucv's. Think a lot of guys are using 60g's with the military cards without problems. The new cards i spoke of earlier has a provision for a manual button and LED's for trouble shooting, you can even pick how your wait light functions,flashing or solid.
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If I use slow plugs (6-8 second glow time) with the original 2-second controller, it's going to take them quite a while to warm up. It's not hard to adjust the timing settings, but it's just another thing that I'll probably never bother doing, as the rig came with the controller bypassed already. Good to know there are newer cards available.
 
This'll be my next project. Installing my spare steering column.

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Replacing the column gets rid of my steering wobble, my broken hi/lo switch, and the stupid CUCV ignition key, all at once. Should be faster then rebuilding what I have. And, as a minor bonus, it is a proper manual trans column, so nobody will be grabbing that auto shifter anymore. They'll just be staring at the SunPro that I can't easily fit to my 6.2 diesel. :rolleyes:
 
Csm Davis said:
Will it read off the alternator tach output?
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Help me out here. I know the serpentine alternators have a tach sensor, but my understanding was that the V-belt alternators do not. Am I missing something?

As dorky as it is, I would keep it if it were functional.
 
campfire said:
Help me out here. I know the serpentine alternators have a tach sensor, but my understanding was that the V-belt alternators do not. Am I missing something?

As dorky as it is, I would keep it if it were functional.
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Believe that the brown wire that slips on with the little rubber cap is the tach wire and it goes inside to the diagnostic port.
 
Csm Davis said:
Believe that the brown wire that slips on with the little rubber cap is the tach wire and it goes inside to the diagnostic port.
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Remind me to look into this when I get back into town. Got any more info on that?

@GoGoGirl, I read through steel soldiers, but found no info for when the light is dark, but I still have 14.8 volts.
 
campfire said:
Voltmeter reads 14.2V on the front battery and 14.8V on the rear. So it's not a charging problem (if anything, 14.8V is on the high side). Bulb checks out, it just stopped lighting. Any ideas? :1zhelp:
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Greetings campfire. For your light things I'd check would be: a known good bulb ( #194) and socket, make sure the printed circuit contact tabs aren't bent or broken, I'd check the 24v fuse in the fuse block, the relay under the dash and then trace out the charging circuit following a diagram.

Hope I don't break a rule by linking to another site, but this is a very good thread on that topic.

http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showth...GEN1-and-GEN2-Exciter-Circuit-troubleshooting
 
campfire said:
Blower switch installed. Temp is up to 30* today, so I don't really need it anymore. ;)

Anybody have advice on the weird alternator lights? As of this morning I now see no test cycle from the second alt light. Not sure if I bumped it while reinstalling the bezel or if I have an actual problem. I'll poke around with the voltmeter and see what I find.
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Sorry campfire i missed this question. The gen 1 and gen 2 lights are in the excitement circuit for the alternator listed and if the bulb or the circuit gets burned out that alternator won't charge properly. Now if i am remembering correctly any alternator will start charging if spun fast enough.
 
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joshuak said:
Greetings campfire. For your light things I'd check would be: a known good bulb ( #194) and socket, make sure the printed circuit contact tabs aren't bent or broken, I'd check the 24v fuse in the fuse block, the relay under the dash and then trace out the charging circuit following a diagram.

Hope I don't break a rule by linking to another site, but this is a very good thread on that topic.

http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showth...GEN1-and-GEN2-Exciter-Circuit-troubleshooting
Click to expand...

Thanks for the link. I read through that yesterday. Everything I've read (including that thread) says that if the bulb fails to illuminate, I should not have power to the field (so no charging). And yet I do.

One thing I forgot to mention...I arced the 24V lead going to the voltmeter. Accidentally touched it to the wrong lug (:doah:). The voltmeter was inop before, and it's inop now, so I've been wondering if I blew that fuse. I didn't have my voltmeter out, and I didn't really care (given that the gauge was already inop).

Now I'm thinking that if I take the bezel back off I may troubleshoot/replace the voltmeter, as it's a really handy thing to have. I don't like running blind and/or relying on flaky idiot lights. Gauges are good.

I've been sick the last few days, that's why I haven't done much with this thing yet.
 
Csm Davis said:
Sorry campfire i missed thi question. The gen 1 and gen 2 lights are in the excitement circuit for the alternator listed and if the bulb or the circuit gers burned out that alternator won't charge properly. Now if i am remembering correctly any alternator will start charging if spun fast enough.
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I have no reason to think that alternator speed is abnormal. That end hasn't changed during my ownership.
 
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