Its 20 degrees with wind gusts to 45 mph here,so I'm avoiding any tranny swaps..hell,I dont even want to walk to the mailbox!...got 5" of snow yesterday,first measureable storm so far this winter--..
CK5
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The Green Grendel
- Thread starter campfire
- Start date
The Fiero is a "duh" ... the kit car, though, is trickier. Laser 917? Bradley GT? Hard to tell in the snow. Assuming it's VW-based and doesn't have another Fiero underneath (that's usually Lambo replicas, yeah?)
-- A
I drove a fiero with a 5.3. Oh yes it was nice. Well maybe not nice but FAST
Does it help if I say that the same silver car shows up in all three shots? That gives you 3 different angles...
As for the red car, Fieros aren't "duh" to everyone. A lotta folks have no idea what one looks like, even the common variants like that one. Various family members went through 5 or 6 of them through the years. And one by one, they've all been parted with, as the car just doesn't fill any practical need. Or want. It's just an oddball. That red one was mine. Rescued it from a field and unstuck the engine. Did a head job. Chased the mice out. Dealt with the ever-present headlight motor issues. Drove it around the farm. But I was about 12 years old at that point. By the time I actually got to driving on the road I had gotten bored with it and was playing with other things. I have never liked automatics, and that car was one. If it hadn't been I might have kept it. I never had anything against that car, I just never had much for it either.
So I have a spot in my heart for Fieros, even if it's not a very large or a very soft spot. They're neat for being so odd and so close to useless.
The middle (blue) car in the second picture is another of the family Fieros. It's from the later series (1987).
So I have a spot in my heart for Fieros, even if it's not a very large or a very soft spot. They're neat for being so odd and so close to useless.
The middle (blue) car in the second picture is another of the family Fieros. It's from the later series (1987).
I hear ya. I changed oil on my DD today. Lying on the frozen ice and wondering if the ice would cause the car to slide while I was under it.
Temp was somewhere around 12 or 14*F.
I'm starting to remember why I used to pause my outside projects during the winter.
But I still love the snow. So it's all good.
Thanks. I have not had the time to think about this since the last update. But that thread makes a lot of sense. The flywheel has a lip extending forward of the teeth, while the flex plate has none. In order to get the teeth in the right place, that ledge will be sticking further forward.
I have heard of the small-opening starters, and seen pictures of them in the little helpful sheet that Autozone shipped with my MT-28 starter (explaining that gear reduction starters are equivalent to direct drive starters). It also claimed that small-opening starters were equivalent to large-opening starters. But that nose is exactly what seems to be the problem. Shimming out the flywheel will put the teeth in the wrong place (so the starter won't be able to engage it). I really do need to make clearance appear via the starter motor.
So...shall I grind the starter down like the poster of that thread did? I've not heard of a manual 24V truck, so I'm not sure I could buy a large-opening 24V starter. I'm not ready to rewire everything for 12V at this point.
@Richcz28, did you have a similar problem when you swapped trannys?
@diesel4me, thanks a bunch for looking that up. I hadn't even started thinking about the problem yet, and here you already have a good piece of the solution. Your willingness to help out is really neat.
Sorry I am late to the party.
As I was in a major rush to go to rausch when I did that swap, I believe I lopped a chunk of the starter out after comparing it to another starter I had lying around. I said, eh, it doesn't have this other chunk of aluminum, lets see how it does. That starter is still in the blazer and I started last week.
Also, I will never again run a used flywheel or clutch. I have before and they never felt right. I've done a used flywheel resurfaced with a new clutch, and just straight used junk. I have an auto zone flywheel and clutch in my blazer that I had a most excellent coupon for and so far so good. I think they were manufactured by Valeo.
And I'll go for the triple post...
I agree with 3.73s for the 5 speed with 33 inch tires only. I would personally jump to the 4.10s for a little extra, but I wouldn't go higher on the 33s. I forget how awesome low gears are until I get in my truck with 4.88s and pick the clutch up and it just drives itself.
Cut the rockers out and stop messing around.
Your frame looks a little crusty for a cucv.
Check out a third row removable seat from a burb with the seat belts incorporated for the kids. They bolt in really easy.
Look into the Josh Thomas dodge sye for that 208 before you bolt it up.
Just run the stock 208 shifter. Everything else sounds more complicated than necessary. I think @Chevy305 has it working fine.
When you switch to 8 lug will you be running wheels without safety beads?
Why do people not just get the correct glow plugs? My 13gs work perfectly....
I agree with 3.73s for the 5 speed with 33 inch tires only. I would personally jump to the 4.10s for a little extra, but I wouldn't go higher on the 33s. I forget how awesome low gears are until I get in my truck with 4.88s and pick the clutch up and it just drives itself.
Cut the rockers out and stop messing around.
Your frame looks a little crusty for a cucv.
Check out a third row removable seat from a burb with the seat belts incorporated for the kids. They bolt in really easy.
Look into the Josh Thomas dodge sye for that 208 before you bolt it up.
Just run the stock 208 shifter. Everything else sounds more complicated than necessary. I think @Chevy305 has it working fine.
When you switch to 8 lug will you be running wheels without safety beads?
Why do people not just get the correct glow plugs? My 13gs work perfectly....
Ya I used the stock 208 shifter in the stock location. The only thing is that the NV4500 shifter interferes with the plastic bezel. My solution was to run a 205 shifter boot and retainer. The boot retainers overlapped at the corners but it works. The bolt holes didn't line up exactly so I just used self tapping screws. One of these days I'll get around to making a custom combined boot and and retainer.
1) How does cutting the rockers out help me? It's not like they're in my way at this point.
2) Crusty? Yeah, it's kinda crusty. But that seems to be par for the region. No idea what this truck's history is or how many salty miles it has seen.
3) I will look into the burb seat. After the truck is more functional, of course.
4) I've looked into SYE, but at this point I'm still able to run my stock driveshaft. I wanna wait to change the driveshaft(s) until I have cooked up some suspension ideas. For now I need to get the truck running and get a feel for its shortcomings before I sink time and money into modifying things. No real reason to do things twice.
5) I will play around with the 208 shifter and see what my options are. But I am naturally biased toward trying out Wifey's idea. If it works out easily I have no good reason to not accept her input. I love to share the hobby with her when I can get her interested.
6) Safety beads. I haven't looked inside my tires yet, but I thought that all the 16" rims had safety beads, and it was just some of the 16.5" rims that lacked them. I have no interest in running 16.5" tires at this point in time. Please fill me in if I'm missing something.
7) I don't know why people in general don't get 13G plugs, but I have heard (hearsay) that 60G and Duraterm plugs have longer lifespans. Personally, I used the Bosch plugs because that's what I had lying around. They were purchased as a spare set for my civilian trucks. If I just had CUCV rigs, I would not have bothered stocking civilian plugs. If I had planned ahead and ordered new plugs instead of grabbing what I already have, I could have kept the narrow connectors. The 1/4" connectors still fit the 3/16" lugs, so I can still run 13G plugs if I ever want to. And I did wind up reusing my one good 13G plug this time.
Might just be the picture angle, but your tranny shifter boot looks smaller than a stock NV4500 boot. Is this true or just an illusion?
And is your shifter in the same location as the older series of NV4500 cases? I know the shifting tower is different.
beags86
Eastbound and Down
You guys missed the grand am, snapper lawnmower, and dodge ram 50 ( Mazda) pickup.
Btw the Fiero GT is kind of a cool car. Reasonably quick. My buddy had one in high school.
The hardcore guys swap the 32 valve caddy northstars into them. They are crazy quick then.
I see big blue has the same wheels.... Hint, hint....
Nobody cares about those.
Btw the Fiero GT is kind of a cool car. Reasonably quick. My buddy had one in high school.
The hardcore guys swap the 32 valve caddy northstars into them. They are crazy quick then.
I like it. Those cars have many oddities, but I think they're neat.
Wait...what? Fiero GT wheels do not fit on Big Blue, no matter how much I torque the lug nuts.
beags86
Eastbound and Down
idk, I had one of those snapper lawnmowers and you could wheelie those all day due to the rear mount engine.Nobody cares about those.
I used a universal shifter boot. My trans didn't come with the stock boot or shifter. But given how close the shifters are you couldn't run the stock boot anyway. Sorry if I missed it, but what was the wife's idea?Might just be the picture angle, but your tranny shifter boot looks smaller than a stock NV4500 boot. Is this true or just an illusion?
And is your shifter in the same location as the older series of NV4500 cases? I know the shifting tower is different.
I believe the shifter location is the same for all NV4500s. Which is just a few inches back from the SM465. Here's exactly where I moved mine back to. (Please excuse the horrendous eye balled cuts)
Ok. I don't have a shifter either, I was thinking of making my own. But I haven't looked into it much at this point. Don't have a plan for the boot, either.
Wifey suggested deleting the NP208 shifter entirely and using the existing column shifter to control the transfer case. It looks like a long cable shifter should be able to accomplish this fairly easily, it eliminates the potential shifter conflict, and it makes her happy. Plus, I like repurposing things, and the lever is sorely needing a purpose right now. So I'm leaning that direction, but first I gotta get the whole thing together. There's nothing to control at this point.
Thanks for the picture.
I would be leery of mixing different # glow plugs,I had one Autolite one melt in two shortly after I put it in my 6.2,the other cylinders had AC 60G's...I heard from a diesel tech if one glow plug has different resistance or one fails,it can cause one or more of the rest, to get too hot and fail...
13G's will probably swell up if used with a manual control switch too..
Wouldn't a Dodge Ram D-50 be made by Mitsubishi,not Mazda ?..
Thought Ford Ranger clones were Mazda built ?..
I had one of those Snapper sit down mowers...a friend who bought it,had a "Bone" creeper,and he put a "Riding The Bone" sticker on it...
He put a 16 HP single cylinder Briggs & Stratton on it off another riding mower that lunched the transaxle...the thing would pop wheelies easily and he got quite good and keeping the front end off the ground for a good 20-30 feet on a wheelie...
13G's will probably swell up if used with a manual control switch too..
Wouldn't a Dodge Ram D-50 be made by Mitsubishi,not Mazda ?..
Thought Ford Ranger clones were Mazda built ?..
I had one of those Snapper sit down mowers...a friend who bought it,had a "Bone" creeper,and he put a "Riding The Bone" sticker on it...
He put a 16 HP single cylinder Briggs & Stratton on it off another riding mower that lunched the transaxle...the thing would pop wheelies easily and he got quite good and keeping the front end off the ground for a good 20-30 feet on a wheelie...
I don't know why but I love Fieros. Like I look for them for sale all the time. I will own one someday
