The Green Grendel

[campfire]

I would be leery of mixing different # glow plugs,I had one Autolite one melt in two shortly after I put it in my 6.2,the other cylinders had AC 60G's...I heard from a diesel tech if one glow plug has different resistance or one fails,it can cause one or more of the rest, to get too hot and fail...
13G's will probably swell up if used with a manual control switch too..

Leery or not, that's what I have at this junction. The cold resistance is similar (don't have an easy way of measuring hot resistance). And the Duraterms are rated to continuously handle 12V, so having a mismatched plug should not harm the other plugs.

I'd be much more concerned with the CUCV resister bank causing issues. These aren't 24V plugs, but they are getting 24V when the circuit is unloaded. Correct me if I'm wrong, but as each plug burns out, that resister bank gets progressively less effective at lowering the voltage (bringing it closer and closer to the static value of 24V). So if it drops the voltage from 24V-->12V with 8 plugs' worth of current, 4 plugs' worth of current should produce a voltage of 18V. Which is significantly above the rating for these plugs. I think that is why the plugs seemed to all fail at once. Each plug failure raised the voltage and caused the next one to burn out. I had easy starting, and then I had no starting. Rather quickly.

I'm strongly tempted to yank out the resister bank and run the plugs off of the 12V power system like the civilian trucks do (to eliminate this issue). Running 12V plugs with 24V is as screwy as running the 6V 9G plugs with 12V (like the civilian trucks did). But as long as it's working I am inclined to leave it alone. For now.

 

[campfire]

Wouldn't a Dodge Ram D-50 be made by Mitsubishi,not Mazda ?..
Thought Ford Ranger clones were Mazda built ?..

I had one of those Snapper sit down mowers...a friend who bought it,had a "Bone" creeper,and he put a "Riding The Bone" sticker on it...
He put a 16 HP single cylinder Briggs & Stratton on it off another riding mower that lunched the transaxle...the thing would pop wheelies easily and he got quite good and keeping the front end off the ground for a good 20-30 feet on a wheelie...

FWIW, that is a pre-1994 Mazda B2200. After '94, Mazda trucks in the US became Ranger clones (and Ranger trucks abroad became Mazda clones). Don't remember what year that truck was, but it was one of the last years that you could buy an actual Mazda truck in this country.

I think you're right about the D-50 trucks being Mitsubishi-made.

 

[campfire]

I don't know why but I love Fieros. Like I look for them for sale all the time. I will own one someday

There's been a guy near us who has been trying to dump his Fiero all year. I think he's asking $500 for it. Could be wrong, though, as I haven't really been paying attention to it. But they're not expensive. Part out that extra truck that you can't drive, and you'd probably generate enough cash to pay for the Fiero.

 

[blazinzuk]

Extra truck????? I don't have any extras!!!!

Lol. I'm looking for a gt 5 speed car. They aren't bad but it ain't gonna happen till Horton is done and the tow rig is done

 

[campfire]

Extra truck????? I don't have any extras!!!!

Lol.

I'm referring to the one with muddy title history. I was under the impression that you cannot register that one with a reasonable amount of effort. Maybe things have changed since we talked.

I'm looking for a gt 5 speed car. They aren't bad but it ain't gonna happen till Horton is done and the tow rig is done

That'll be a bit pricier, but still should be doable. Getting the perpetual projects done, OTOH, may or may not happen in the near future.

 

[blazinzuk]

The murky title truck is donating its drivetrain to the crew cab. Plus I haven't actually paid my buddy for it. He doesn't care at all. So when I part it out all the money is going to him.

So nothing extra.

But there is another crew cab square up the road hasn't moved since we lived here. Might try to pick it up and part it out

 

[campfire]

The murky title truck is donating its drivetrain to the crew cab. Plus I haven't actually paid my buddy for it. He doesn't care at all. So when I part it out all the money is going to him.

So nothing extra.

But there is another crew cab square up the road hasn't moved since we lived here. Might try to pick it up and part it out

How nice of a condition is it in? @Metrodps is looking for a cheap CCLB to build.

 

[blazinzuk]

Not that nice. Body is rusty. This truck looks like it lived a hard life

 

[tRustyK5]

Ok. I don't have a shifter either, I was thinking of making my own. But I haven't looked into it much at this point. Don't have a plan for the boot, either.

Wifey suggested deleting the NP208 shifter entirely and using the existing column shifter to control the transfer case. It looks like a long cable shifter should be able to accomplish this fairly easily, it eliminates the potential shifter conflict, and it makes her happy. Plus, I like repurposing things, and the lever is sorely needing a purpose right now. So I'm leaning that direction, but first I gotta get the whole thing together. There's nothing to control at this point.

Thanks for the picture.

I like your wife's idea...

 

[campfire]

I like your wife's idea...

I like my wife, so by proxy I'm going to try to like her idea.

But it is the kind of idea that I wish I had though of.

 

[rbgerrish]

What is the casting number? I can't quite discern it. From the picture, it looks visually correct. But I can't gauge back spacing.

Both of my flywheels have the #14050525 number. That number corresponds to my purpose. One of them came off of a running 6.2 engine, the other came off of a 6.5. They are much heavier than a sbc flywheel. They appear to have the same back spacing. It just doesn't fit.

As said before, it would probably work if I could modify the starter to fit. But the flex plate fit perfectly, which makes me think that these aren't correctly spaced for my application.

@rbgerrish (if you're still around), do you have any recollections of taking this flywheel off? I assume it fit nicely on your engine. Were there any spacers? Did you have ample clearance to the block? Was your starter different? I'm running out of ideas.

It did fit nicely- it came on a red-block 6.2 engine out of a pickup from what I was told. I do not recall any spacers. Only a tiny bit of clearance, as you can see in these pics:
https://www.flickr.com/photos/rbgerrish/15386018982/in/album-72157644958968420/
https://www.flickr.com/photos/rbgerrish/15386022882/in/album-72157644958968420/

 

[campfire]

It did fit nicely- it came on a red-block 6.2 engine out of a pickup from what I was told. I do not recall any spacers. Only a tiny bit of clearance, as you can see in these pics:
https://www.flickr.com/photos/rbgerrish/15386018982/in/album-72157644958968420/
https://www.flickr.com/photos/rbgerrish/15386022882/in/album-72157644958968420/

Cool. I think clearancing the starter will make it fit. Both flywheels are having the same problem with contacting the starter. I think with that opened up it will be fine.

I'm really glad you took those pictures, as intuitively it seemed like too tight a fit on the top. But your "tiny bit of clearance" matches mine, so I'm not gonna worry about it unless some other problem arises.

Thanks again!

 

[campfire]

Thread update...temperatures are starting to get above freezing, and I'm getting tired of inside projects, so outside work should be coming up soon.

As such, I'm starting to order parts for this rig. I'm ordering a new clutch slave cylinder. I have an old master (not sure whether to reuse it or by yet another chinese knockoff :doah). But I need a hydraulic line. Rock auto will send me one for a mere $27 + shipping, but that seems excessive for a $3 brake line with a piece of hose. Are these not trivial to cheaply fab? I'm missing something.

http://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/...ransmission-manual,clutch+hydraulic+hose,2332
http://www.summitracing.com/search/part-type/hydraulic-clutch-lines/year/1987/make/chevrolet/model/v10-suburban?N=4294947491&SortBy=BestKeywordMatch&SortOrder=Ascending&keyword=hydraulic line

 

[GWeakland620]

I have no useful knowledge here, but I am excited to see some vehicular movement!

 

[beags86]

Find a place to crimp hydraulic lines, they will be able to make one up for you.

But some of those places are expensive. Might be cheaper and easier to buy it.

 

[campfire]

I have no useful knowledge here, but I am excited to see some vehicular movement!

Naww...vehicle is still parked in the same spot.

95% inside my leaky barn, with the tail out in the snow.

 

[campfire]

Find a place to crimp hydraulic lines, they will be able to make one up for you.

But some of those places are expensive. Might be cheaper and easier to buy it.

Find a place to crimp hydraulic lines, they will be able to make one up for you.

But some of those places are expensive. Might be cheaper and easier to buy it.

Really? Why is this harder than making up my own brake line? Does nobody sell basic rubber/braided line that I can put my own coupling on? Or a standard brake line with a piece of rubber in the middle? Or even just at one end?

I thought this would be a basic thing like fabbing my own brake/fuel line.

 

[campfire]

Parts ordered. Clutch parts, U-joints, gaskets, fuel pump (for Big Blue), and a few other things.

 

[big dan]

Iirc the clutch line on these trucks is a weird fitting and size which makes it hard to find replacements. Don't thing it's something you can find at a normal hydraulic line/ brake line shop.

 

[Richcz28]

I can't picture a shop charging less than $27 for a custom line.