beags86
Eastbound and Down
Of course they do, everything Pennzoil makes is half the cost, because everything they make is cheap.
And not in a good way.
Never use that stuff...
CK5
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The Green Grendel
- Thread starter campfire
- Start date
Of course they do, everything Pennzoil makes is half the cost, because everything they make is cheap.
And not in a good way.
Never use that stuff...
Never had a problem with it.
beags86
Eastbound and Down
No doubt. But it the not the oil you will have a problem with, it the hard parts the oil is failing to protect.
I personally would never use any Pennzoil products. My father was in the automotive lubrication industry and nothing good within the industry was ever said about their products.
Lots of good oils out there, Pennzoil just isn't one of them.
That's my opinion though. Each to their own.
Everyone has an opinion on oils and I wasn't starting that debate, nor do I want to. I don't run their motor oils however I've ran this stuff for years without any issues. Just my experience.
beags86
Eastbound and Down
I've found references to a rubber O-ring that sits between the t-case and the tranny. But only some write-ups mention them. I have a gasket on the metal sealing surface, but haven't met something resembling an O-ring. I have no adapter (the cases bolt directly together), so I have been planning on sealing the one metal seam with RTV. Is there something that I'm missing? 
I've found references to a rubber O-ring that sits between the t-case and the tranny. But only some write-ups mention them. I have a gasket on the metal sealing surface, but haven't met something resembling an O-ring. I have no adapter (the cases bolt directly together), so I have been planning on sealing the one metal seam with RTV. Is there something that I'm missing?
RTV it and rock on
This thing is back to hobbling around the yard again (FWD only). No further snags aside from losing parts and finding out yet again that my sandbox can swallow some impressively large parts. 
The clutch didn't bleed fully, so I hafta redo that again. It does engage enough to get the beast stopped, but it's not what it should be. Both cases are low on fluids and making hungry noises, so the next step will be fluidizing them. Not sure if it's worthwhile to put fluid in the 208 while the slip yoke is still out. So it's also time to get the back axle pieced together. One piece at a time.
The clutch didn't bleed fully, so I hafta redo that again. It does engage enough to get the beast stopped, but it's not what it should be. Both cases are low on fluids and making hungry noises, so the next step will be fluidizing them. Not sure if it's worthwhile to put fluid in the 208 while the slip yoke is still out. So it's also time to get the back axle pieced together. One piece at a time.
Administratively, I also hafta track down why my GP button doesn't trip the relay (I manually cycled the plug relay to get it started this time), and I also have no lights. And someday I want to have an actual 12V GP system instead of the lethal plug-killing resister bank.
NP208 takes ATF, right? Or am I mixing up my cases?
And now for the part that may get me shunned...my homemade transmission mount adapter. Despite being a 1986 truck, all CUCV rigs are 1984 models. So I have the 1984-down flat transmission cross member instead of the "W" cross member. My understanding is that the NV4500 would fit the "W" cross member perfectly, but I'm working with what I have. First I measured the NV4500 mounting surface against the TH400 adapter that I took out of this truck. The NV4500 mounting surface sits 3 3/4" inches higher than the adapter.
But the NV4500 also came with a mount that is 3" tall. With 3/4" of stud length sticking out the bottom end. 3 3/4" total height.
It doesn't look like it in the picture, but these are very close in overall height (counting the studs). So if I bolt it to the existing mounts already in my cross member I'm only 3/4" off.
The spacing on the NV4500 mount was narrower than the TH400 mount (don't remember either dimension now), and it was 3/4" too short. So I decided I wanted a piece of channel or box beam that was 2" wide and 3/4" tall to connect the two pieces together. I looked around the shop and found a fairly close match in an old clutch arm that was now in the scrap pile (it wasn't straight, but was roughly 1" tall, and pretty near the correct width and length). So I pulled it out and decided to make something out of it. Not only did I need to drill holes for the 4 bolts needed, but I also had to make a flat surface out of a piece of curved spaghetti. The piece came with one hole already there, but I quickly found that it was too hard to reasonably drill the other 3. So I set up my acetylene torch with the baby tip and heated the 3 spots that I would be drilling, allowing them to cool slowly and attain a softer tempering. Side note, I have missed this thing, life is just more fun with a torch around. Now I just need to get the MIG set up and and this place will be on its way toward usefulness.
Holes drilled, in the mock up stage. The top provides a straight plane, but the bottom is all over the place. Also, in order to match the spacing in the cross member, the bolts had to overlap the mount slightly. I ground down one side of each bolt head to accommodate this.
A little bit of grinding provided a flat surface for the piece to sit on, but I couldn't grind it completely flat without losing my height (and taking a whole bunch of time
), so each bolt is sitting on stack of washers to bring the flat surface up to the top. The rubber mount on the driver side looked slightly crooked, but my efforts to straighten it yielded the same result. So it's either an illusion or an inevitability.
In place with the spaghetti noodle double tranny mount. It does look crooked, but that is camera angle. It is surprisingly straight and square.
The part that really impressed me with all this swapping is that I took a tranny that GM never intended for this rig and bolted it directly up. Bell housing and T-case had the same patterns, and the length turned out to be exactly the same. No redrilling cross member bolts, I bolted it up and dropped the tranny on it just like GM had planned it that way. I'm 100% confident that GM never would have done a spaghetti noodle double tranny mount like that. And yet it all worked out perfectly. If I had a later cross-member, it would have been even perfecter. It also would have saved me time and kept me from looking like the metal-fabbing equivalent of Red Green.
For my future reference, both the NV4500 mount studs and the bolts threading into the tail housing are M10x1.25. Bolts are 25MM long, studs are about 3/4" long (did not measure in metric, but I'll guess 20MM).
But the NV4500 also came with a mount that is 3" tall. With 3/4" of stud length sticking out the bottom end. 3 3/4" total height.
It doesn't look like it in the picture, but these are very close in overall height (counting the studs). So if I bolt it to the existing mounts already in my cross member I'm only 3/4" off.
The spacing on the NV4500 mount was narrower than the TH400 mount (don't remember either dimension now), and it was 3/4" too short. So I decided I wanted a piece of channel or box beam that was 2" wide and 3/4" tall to connect the two pieces together. I looked around the shop and found a fairly close match in an old clutch arm that was now in the scrap pile (it wasn't straight, but was roughly 1" tall, and pretty near the correct width and length). So I pulled it out and decided to make something out of it. Not only did I need to drill holes for the 4 bolts needed, but I also had to make a flat surface out of a piece of curved spaghetti. The piece came with one hole already there, but I quickly found that it was too hard to reasonably drill the other 3. So I set up my acetylene torch with the baby tip and heated the 3 spots that I would be drilling, allowing them to cool slowly and attain a softer tempering. Side note, I have missed this thing, life is just more fun with a torch around. Now I just need to get the MIG set up and and this place will be on its way toward usefulness.
Holes drilled, in the mock up stage. The top provides a straight plane, but the bottom is all over the place. Also, in order to match the spacing in the cross member, the bolts had to overlap the mount slightly. I ground down one side of each bolt head to accommodate this.
A little bit of grinding provided a flat surface for the piece to sit on, but I couldn't grind it completely flat without losing my height (and taking a whole bunch of time
), so each bolt is sitting on stack of washers to bring the flat surface up to the top. The rubber mount on the driver side looked slightly crooked, but my efforts to straighten it yielded the same result. So it's either an illusion or an inevitability. In place with the spaghetti noodle double tranny mount. It does look crooked, but that is camera angle. It is surprisingly straight and square.
The part that really impressed me with all this swapping is that I took a tranny that GM never intended for this rig and bolted it directly up. Bell housing and T-case had the same patterns, and the length turned out to be exactly the same. No redrilling cross member bolts, I bolted it up and dropped the tranny on it just like GM had planned it that way. I'm 100% confident that GM never would have done a spaghetti noodle double tranny mount like that. And yet it all worked out perfectly. If I had a later cross-member, it would have been even perfecter. It also would have saved me time and kept me from looking like the metal-fabbing equivalent of Red Green.
For my future reference, both the NV4500 mount studs and the bolts threading into the tail housing are M10x1.25. Bolts are 25MM long, studs are about 3/4" long (did not measure in metric, but I'll guess 20MM).
This is cool! Glad you are winning!!! That mount though... lol
Yeah, I'm expecting an inbox full of hate mail from everyone who dislikes it. Nuns, busloads of orphans, all that stuff.
As I've said before, this project is practice for the real tranny job, which will be on the Suburban. This truck is pretty close to a zero-dollar build, I sure don't plan to do the dorky mount next time. But I had to get this thing rolling again, otherwise I'll never have motivation to work on it. As can be proven by my putting in 1 shop day every 2 or 3 months. Hard to get anything done at that rate.
It's easier to fix that later should it be a problem vs that totally stopping you from completing something on the build. Making headway sometimes is better than not
beags86
Eastbound and Down
And now for the part that may get me shunned...my homemade transmission mount adapter. Despite being a 1986 truck, all CUCV rigs are 1984 models. So I have the 1984-down flat transmission cross member instead of the "W" cross member. My understanding is that the NV4500 would fit the "W" cross member perfectly, but I'm working with what I have. First I measured the NV4500 mounting surface against the TH400 adapter that I took out of this truck. The NV4500 mounting surface sits 3 3/4" inches higher than the adapter.
View attachment 218648
But the NV4500 also came with a mount that is 3" tall. With 3/4" of stud length sticking out the bottom end. 3 3/4" total height.
View attachment 218646
It doesn't look like it in the picture, but these are very close in overall height (counting the studs). So if I bolt it to the existing mounts already in my cross member I'm only 3/4" off.
View attachment 218647
The spacing on the NV4500 mount was narrower than the TH400 mount (don't remember either dimension now), and it was 3/4" too short. So I decided I wanted a piece of channel or box beam that was 2" wide and 3/4" tall to connect the two pieces together. I looked around the shop and found a fairly close match in an old clutch arm that was now in the scrap pile (it wasn't straight, but was roughly 1" tall, and pretty near the correct width and length). So I pulled it out and decided to make something out of it. Not only did I need to drill holes for the 4 bolts needed, but I also had to make a flat surface out of a piece of curved spaghetti. The piece came with one hole already there, but I quickly found that it was too hard to reasonably drill the other 3. So I set up my acetylene torch with the baby tip and heated the 3 spots that I would be drilling, allowing them to cool slowly and attain a softer tempering. Side note, I have missed this thing, life is just more fun with a torch around. Now I just need to get the MIG set up and and this place will be on its way toward usefulness.
View attachment 218649
Holes drilled, in the mock up stage. The top provides a straight plane, but the bottom is all over the place. Also, in order to match the spacing in the cross member, the bolts had to overlap the mount slightly. I ground down one side of each bolt head to accommodate this.
View attachment 218650
A little bit of grinding provided a flat surface for the piece to sit on, but I couldn't grind it completely flat without losing my height (and taking a whole bunch of time
View attachment 218656
View attachment 218658
In place with the spaghetti noodle double tranny mount. It does look crooked, but that is camera angle. It is surprisingly straight and square.
View attachment 218652
View attachment 218653
The part that really impressed me with all this swapping is that I took a tranny that GM never intended for this rig and bolted it directly up. Bell housing and T-case had the same patterns, and the length turned out to be exactly the same. No redrilling cross member bolts, I bolted it up and dropped the tranny on it just like GM had planned it that way. I'm 100% confident that GM never would have done a spaghetti noodle double tranny mount like that. And yet it all worked out perfectly. If I had a later cross-member, it would have been even perfecter. It also would have saved me time and kept me from looking like the metal-fabbing equivalent of Red Green.
For my future reference, both the NV4500 mount studs and the bolts threading into the tail housing are M10x1.25. Bolts are 25MM long, studs are about 3/4" long (did not measure in metric, but I'll guess 20MM).
Nice work on getting what you have to work.
This is how hot rodding was born.
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I've always used ATF. It's worked so far.NP208 takes ATF, right? Or am I mixing up my cases?
Glad to see you being you, and being resourceful. We all can understand using what you have to make forward progress. Nice work sir.
I have a fairly simple idea for a mount/spacer for you. I'll try and draw a picture. Have to find the crayons I hid from @GWeakland620
