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The Green Grendel

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This is the best I could do... it's two pieces of 2x2 square tubing (or whatever fills the void probably 3/16 or 1/4 thick) cut at a 45 then welded together. You could probably bolt them together if you wanted but welding would eliminate two bolts that "could" come loose. Either way it probably doesn't matter... Anyway, lose the rubber bushings on the bottom and bolt the mount to the crossmember, and then drill two holes and bolt the upper mount/bushing to the bracket. Cheap and simple-ish!

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I ran into the same problem with my mounts too. I used a piece of 3" square tube and still wound up 1/2" too low. I didn't have any half inch plate so I stacked 1/4" shim plates to make up the difference. Not my best work but effective. Really the correct solution is to get a "W" cross member, you know eventually...

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F.S.F.W said:
This is the best I could do... it's two pieces of 2x2 square tubing (or whatever fills the void probably 3/16 or 1/4 thick) cut at a 45 then welded together. You could probably bolt them together if you wanted but welding would eliminate two bolts that "could" come loose. Either way it probably doesn't matter... Anyway, lose the rubber bushings on the bottom and bolt the mount to the crossmember, and then drill two holes and bolt the upper mount/bushing to the bracket. Cheap and simple-ish!

View attachment 218664
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That's close to what I was imagining yesterday, but your dimensions are off. I need 3 3/4" if I discard the GMT-400 mount and just use the square-body bushings. If I discard the bottom I need the 3/4" + about 1" worth of rubber. And then I hafta deal with the large slot left behind from removing the bushings. Not difficult, but I think I'd be more inclined to chuck the top mount like @Chevy305 did.

Of all the stupid things, I didn't write down what those bolt spacings are. So if I do go back and redo it I'll be remeasuring stuff. :doah:
 
Chevy305 said:
I ran into the same problem with my mounts too. I used a piece of 3" square tube and still wound up 1/2" too low. I didn't have any half inch plate so I stacked 1/4" shim plates to make up the difference. Not my best work but effective. Really the correct solution is to get a "W" cross member, you know eventually...

View attachment 218667
View attachment 218668
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3" 1/2", eh? that's pretty close to what I measured. Building in an empty frame is oodles easier than doing it on the assembled vehicle. I don't see a problem with using an adapter here instead of the "W" crossmember. That is what GM did, after all, on this series of truck. I'm patterning my adapter after theirs. That tubing idea is what I was originally envisioning, but I haven't built the shop yet, so fabbing real stuff is out of my reach at the moment. I have an angle grinder and a vice and and now a torch, and that's about it aside from hand tools. Getting the MIG set up will be a large step forward, but I don't even have a work bench at this point. Hope to change that soonish.
 
I've seen a hunk of 4x4 post under a truck's transfer case at my friends shop before,when it was on the lift for an oil change.....redneck fix--but it worked !..:crazy:..
 
diesel4me said:
I've seen a hunk of 4x4 post under a truck's transfer case at my friends shop before,when it was on the lift for an oil change.....redneck fix--but it worked !..:crazy:..
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I will admit to very, very briefly thinking about using a pine 1x4 (which is 3/4" thick) as my 3/4" spacer. Not sure why that idea popped into my head, but it did not stay there very long. :crazy:
 
campfire said:
3" 1/2", eh? that's pretty close to what I measured. Building in an empty frame is oodles easier than doing it on the assembled vehicle. I don't see a problem with using an adapter here instead of the "W" crossmember. That is what GM did, after all, on this series of truck. I'm patterning my adapter after theirs. That tubing idea is what I was originally envisioning, but I haven't built the shop yet, so fabbing real stuff is out of my reach at the moment. I have an angle grinder and a vice and and now a torch, and that's about it aside from hand tools. Getting the MIG set up will be a large step forward, but I don't even have a work bench at this point. Hope to change that soonish.
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I cut mine with an angle grinder and a cutoff wheel. I didn't even use a vice, just clamped it to the frame to steady it. :grind::smokin2:
 
campfire said:
Man, I wish I had taken to opportunity to look at that shifter in person. :doah: :doah:
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That's what she said!

But seriously, I think yours is the earlier version that the shift tower is all one piece. The '95 and up NV4500s all have bolt on shifter towers that can adapt a short throw tower. :burnout:
 
Chevy305 said:
That's what she said!

But seriously, I think yours is the earlier version that the shift tower is all one piece. The '95 and up NV4500s all have bolt on shifter towers that can adapt a short throw tower. :burnout:
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Yes, mine is the earlier one-piece shifter. But that doesn't mean I'm not interested in seeing what else is out there. :cool: Is yours a 1995 with the external slave or a 1996+ with the internal slave? I remember you saying you had used an AA bell to adapt to the mechanical linkage. The input lips are different between the two styles.
 
campfire said:
I will admit to very, very briefly thinking about using a pine 1x4 (which is 3/4" thick) as my 3/4" spacer. Not sure why that idea popped into my head, but it did not stay there very long. :crazy:
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Oak plank from a pallet would be much stronger--maybe as strong as steel..like they say--pound for pound,wood is stronger than steel!..:D
 
If you had some Osage Orange or Black Locust wood it would rival steel's strength..I've seen sparks come off mjy chain saw chain cutting Black Locust before it is so hard !..

Ever wonder how wood put between a dump body and the frame on dump trucks,even 10 wheelers, seems to never rot,and often outlasts the frame ?...they use oak or locust mostly on that application..

I recall a friend buying a '71 Chevelle years ago,it was "jacked up"quite high in the rear..when he got it home he called me to come look it over,show it off--first thing I noticed when I stuck my head under it was 4x4 wood blocks someone bolted between the rear coil springs and the rear axle "cup" they sat in,with long carriage bolts!..backyard "lift kit"!..:screwy:..:eek:..big cracks in each one too!..
I helped him put a "real" lift kit in it,"Superior" brand,which was just two hunks of thick tubing with large metal washers instead,so it would pass inspection..
 
diesel4me said:
Ever wonder how wood put between a dump body and the frame on dump trucks,even 10 wheelers, seems to never rot,and often outlasts the frame ?...they use oak or locust mostly on that application..
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I don't see how rot resistance equals strength.
 
beags86 said:
I don't see how rot resistance equals strength.
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I don't care so much about strength as about surviving vibration. As heavy is it may seem when I'm bench pressing it, the NP208 is not that heavy. But it sure will see all sorts of vibrations and bumps. Wood structures can be good at handling that, but with basic bolt fasteners on a piece that isn't completely sandwiched, it is a terrible idea. Fasteners tear out in a hurry.
 
I am not saying wood is a good idea or anything remotely like that. I was just confused by Bob's statement.

Sorry off topic post.
But I am hobby woodworker and was wondering about it.
 
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