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The Green Grendel

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I'm just amazed wood outlasts steel in the dump bed applications..
If the wood is sandwiched between two steel items with thru-bolts it would be unlikely to fail or break,but I wouldn't trust a bolt in the wood alone not to pull thru or split it..
 
Anybody have tips on bleeding the clutch slave? My procedure is to unbolt the cylinder, hold it at a 45* angle with the bleeder at the highest point, and then proceed to work the pedal and open the valve like I would on a brake cylinder (SOP). This has gotten me close, but I'm still not quite there yet.

Any magic secrets that I'm missing here? :ears:
 
If you have help I have found the method that works good is press and hold the pedal down, open bleeder, close bleeder, let pedal back up fully, press and hold pedal, open bleeder, close bleeder, let pedal up-and repeat until finished .
 
If the bleeder has access and you can put a vacuum hose on it,you can use engine vacuum to bleed it with no pedal pumping...

I have bled my brakes alone this way many times..you can make a "catch can"and put it in-line with the hose to trap the brake fluid,but in a pinch I have just used a hose and a pair of vise grips as a "on-off" switch--when the brake fluid gets to the engine you'll hear the idle change and white smoke will come out of the tail pipe--but if you used clear vinyl hose,you can watch the fluid flow and if it has any bubbles- and shut off the vacuum before it gets to the engine..usually the hose is so long you'll have the air bled (sucked) out long before it'll reach the engine..
 
78K30 said:
If you have help I have found the method that works good is press and hold the pedal down, open bleeder, close bleeder, let pedal back up fully, press and hold pedal, open bleeder, close bleeder, let pedal up-and repeat until finished .
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Yep, that's what I'm doing. I just didn't feel like typing all that out. :wink1:
 
diesel4me said:
If the bleeder has access and you can put a vacuum hose on it,you can use engine vacuum to bleed it with no pedal pumping...

I have bled my brakes alone this way many times..you can make a "catch can"and put it in-line with the hose to trap the brake fluid,but in a pinch I have just used a hose and a pair of vise grips as a "on-off" switch--when the brake fluid gets to the engine you'll hear the idle change and white smoke will come out of the tail pipe--but if you used clear vinyl hose,you can watch the fluid flow and if it has any bubbles- and shut off the vacuum before it gets to the engine..usually the hose is so long you'll have the air bled (sucked) out long before it'll reach the engine..
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I like this idea. Pity I have no engine vacuum. :rolleyes:
 
beags86 said:
View attachment 218660

Nice work on getting what you have to work.

This is how hot rodding was born.
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That comment made my day. I honestly expected to find no support for the spaghetti noodle double tranny mount or the mindset behind it. I like repurposing old parts. Around here I see more people paying for custom machining work than creatively reworking what they have. Like the ubiquitous shackle flip. Gazillions of CK5ers have bought brackets for such. But plenty of other people have either modified stock shackles or fabbed up their own conversion brackets to achieve the same goal (and that saves all the time required to drop the tank and rip out the stock brackets!). Call me crazy, but I'm more inclined to do something on my own if two options are similar amounts of work. It brings more satisfaction that way, even if it won't ever be as pretty as a DIY4X piece. I like what ORD offers, and I plan to spend a large chunk of change there this year on things that I can't fab. But the bolt-everything-on philosophy removes some of the fun challenge for me. I'm not a wheeler (at least, not yet), I get more fun out of building the truck than driving it.

I like the dorky mount, even if it's not worth repeating. If it works I doubt I'll ever bother replacing it. If it doesn't, well, that won't fly, and I'll come up with something else. But either way it was a lot funner than the routine maintenance that I did today.
 
GWeakland620 said:
Glad to see you being you, and being resourceful. We all can understand using what you have to make forward progress. Nice work sir.
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Thanks.

GWeakland620 said:
I've always used ATF. It's worked so far.
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Good deal.

Here's the $64 question. How do you guys prefer to get the fluid into the case? I've poured fluid directly into transmissions and axles, and it's just not the funnest way to do it. I've seen hand pumps, electric pumps, as well as cannisters pressurized via air compressor. What has worked well for you guys? It's high time that I buy/make a better solution than what I've done previously.
 
Hand pumps are cheap and screw right to the bottle...
 
I'm going to go with the air pressurized steel container. I've actually got the portable air tank just need to take the time
 
About 5" of 1/2" fuel hose on the end of a nipple on a bottle works just fine for me.

I will say this, that mount is some Roadkill level stuff right there. I mean that in a good way. Get it running.
 
Spent some time cleaning up the shed, it's getting closer to being useful. I also stroked the slave cylinder back and forth like Martin suggested. I can compress it most of an inch, and it slowly springs back, but it does not ever get completely tight. About half the pedal stroke is pretty soft, moving the piston and kindof moving the lever arm, but not pushing on the diaphragm. And then the pedal bottoms out quite a ways above the floor.

So...how far above the floor should the clutch pedal stop? I expected it to get close, but this one does not. I will measure it if anyone else has a measurement for comparison.

Also, how tight should the slave piston be against the linkage when resting? It's not quite loose enough to fall out of place, but it is loose enough to bounce around.

This sure sounds like an adjustment issue to me, but I don't see any adjustment options aside from bending the pivot arm. And I can't see needing to do that, it wouldn't make any sense. But I clearly have plenty of hydraulic range that isn't being used, and yet my arm is slack for much of the stroke. :dunno:
 
Am I misreading the slack in the slave rod? It firmly pushes back on my hand until it gets 1/4" back from the linkage, and then just stops. That is what is annoying me right now.
 
Part of cleaning up today involved opening up the tailgate to look through the parts collection. One of the reasons that I've never had a huge liking for this truck is that, despite being wide and tall, the short cargo area means it doesn't actually carry a huge amount of cargo. It just seems like a weird way to configure a vehicle. It sure does turn tightly, though. I will admit that.

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And the ever present collection of badges. I started this collection intending to cobble together some random combination of badges for Big Blue, but after painting it I decided I liked the badgeless look. So here they sit. It makes an interesting collage, but that's about it.

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