CK5
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The Green Grendel

You could try replacing the crank. This one won't break since it's rated for 5 million lb-ft:

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Comes with a properly-reinforced bottom end? And an extra cylinder just for good measure? Sign me up.

This is a bolt-on mod, right?
 
I did some little things tonight. Fixed 3 broken cable ends. Collateral damage is irritating. :rolleyes:

Soldered a new end for the starter motor lead.

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It's messy and a bit brittle. :rolleyes:

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Replaced both ends of the intermediate battery cable. Quick disconnects, so I don't need to worry about repeating last year's stuck solenoid dance. And there is a weird bleedthrough between the two systems, disconnecting just one side of the cable doesn't cut all power to the vehicle. So both ends got fancy couplings.


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VVV I think this primary battery is still the one that came with the truck back in 2012. It wasn't new then, either. The green one (^^^) is from early 2013, IIRC. Both are still acting healthy, to my surprise.

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And I plumbed the new fuel filter housing. Because why not?

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It bolts to the same bracket as the Stanadyne housing. Convenient.

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And I now realize I fudged the number I scrawled on the fuel filter canister. Oopsies. :blush:
 
I ordered a new Walker 45869 exhaust pipe section to replace the rotten one (which was cut to aid in engine removal). I ordered it via Autozone and it arrived today. But neither end was round and it had quite a few scrapes. Looks like they threw it in a Fedex truck with no packaging and just let it smash against stuff. It was also pretty thin metal. I thought about canceling the order and splicing my existing pipe. But the old pipe is getting crusty, so I asked them to try again. We'll see what we get next time.

I went to Fastenal to get coarse-thread 7/16" grade 8 nylocks for the motor mount bolts. Turns out they're discontinuing retail sales effective tomorrow. So I guess I'll never go back there again. Sigh. I liked that shop.


One piece at a time...
 
Also, I'm not crazy. The fuel filter bracket really is different on this truck. The mounting surface is much lower than the other truck, and the filter hangs closer to the valve cover.

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The other truck for comparison.

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I think it will still work. But we'll see.
 
More stuff tonight. Oil, fuel, and cooling systems are all plumbed. My list is now short:

Install starter.
Install fan.
Fix P/S bracket & install belts.

At that point I should be ready for test firing. Tomorrow morning or bust!

CDR & intake are waiting until after successful test fire (so it's easier to spot leaks). I also only filled the radiator half way, because I'm assuming there will be plenty of rust flakes to flush out of this block that has been sitting dry.

On second thought, maybe I should disconnect the top hose so I don't pump that stuff right into the radiator. :thinking:
 
@KirsL, the vacuum pump was indeed hitting the firewall. I'm having a really hard time believing that was what hung us up, as I deliberately turned the pump away from the firewall when we swung it into place. But at some point it got turned the wrong way.

Here's hoping that was the only problem. The aft end of the engine dropped most of an inch after I corrected that.
 
I might just put it together without P/S and drive it down to the shop to weld the bracket back together.

Or I might pull the pulley. I'm halfway tempted to skip the center bolt and let the other three hold it. 4 bolts does seem like overkill. But alas, I don't think it will stay in the belt plane with that one missing. :rolleyes:

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I also need to swap that bolt out for a stud. Missed that when assembling the brackets.
 
Having pieces of three engines strewn about simultaneously has lead to confusion. I accidentally installed the donor engine's thermostat housing, where I had intended to use the known good thermostat from the blown engine. Same for the fuel return hard line.

I have had to double check pulleys, as they are different.

And quite a few bolts have stripped out or cross threaded. It's true that I used an impact wrench for disassembly, but I'm being gentle with reassembly. Frustrating. This truck is headstrong.

Things like the P/S bracket. Who knows how long it's been broken? But now that I know about it, I am obligated to fix it. It had nothing to do with the engine failure, it's just collateral damage. :rolleyes:
 
On second thought, maybe I should disconnect the top hose so I don't pump that stuff right into the radiator.
This. Set the return to eject and flush out the junk, with the garden hose feeding the intake. When it runs a clear and clean, drain the radiator and reconnect everything.

David
 
I guess it's good I didn't get that far tonight...
Also after that get some evaporust for cooling systems.
I got one from Walmart.
You follow instructions on how to use it, it will clean the engine from the inside.
Then you flush it and fill with coolant
 
@KirsL, the vacuum pump was indeed hitting the firewall. I'm having a really hard time believing that was what hung us up, as I deliberately turned the pump away from the firewall when we swung it into place. But at some point it got turned the wrong way.

Here's hoping that was the only problem. The aft end of the engine dropped most of an inch after I corrected that.

Just like a distributor on a gasser it can get in the way when dropping the engine in. Glad it was something simple.
 
At that point I should be ready for test firing. Tomorrow morning or bust!

Running behind schedule, but it fired up. Slowly. I forgot to charge the batteries, and the main one ran down to 11.2 volts while sitting. :doah:

The idiotic thing is I noticed a slight spark when testing my battery cables, so I knew something was discharging. But I figured it was a temporary thing due to the many dangling wires, and forgot about it. :1zhelp:


But it's running! :woot: :woot: :saweet:
 
Side note, the 2 cylinders dumping exhaust into the intake cavity, combined with the one missing exhaust pipe, give the truck an odd syncopation.
I enjoy the test fire sans intake, too. It’s unique to these engines.

David
 
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