It is a pressure fitting. I started out loose, then as I saw leaks I've continued to tighten it, but I've tightened it several times and I've not been able to stop it.
CK5
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The (hopefully) official R134a conversion thread
- Thread starter clandr1
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It is a pressure fitting. I started out loose, then as I saw leaks I've continued to tighten it, but I've tightened it several times and I've not been able to stop it.
Remove it and inspect the surface of the cones, maybe you had dirt on there or you tightened it crooked.
If not put it back on and tighten it good and see if it still leaks.
I trust copper pressure fitting more than I trust rubber Orings.
I think there isn't enough material where I cut the factory line in two. It seems the compression fittings may not have enough meat to bite on to get it to properly seal.
I'll open it up at some point and check it, but at this point I'm really leaning more towards having custom lines made so I don't have the question mark under the hood. I'm very OCD and if something doesn't work 100%, I'm always worrying about it even when I think it is "fixed".
I'll open it up at some point and check it, but at this point I'm really leaning more towards having custom lines made so I don't have the question mark under the hood. I'm very OCD and if something doesn't work 100%, I'm always worrying about it even when I think it is "fixed".
4xcrazy
3/4 ton status
I'd personally get the lines made to work with the o-ring seals, there's a lot of pressure on those high side lines. The first thing I thought of when you said you used compression fittings and copper tubing, was I doubt it would seal properly, just didn't feel right posting it, didn't want to seem like I was trashing your mods.
It was last minute and last ditch effort, I know my **** was ghetto 
Looks like I'll be having custom lines made. Taking a trip to Colorado in a month and a half and am trying to get the air con working and will be getting it regeared within a month.
Tapatalk
Looks like I'll be having custom lines made. Taking a trip to Colorado in a month and a half and am trying to get the air con working and will be getting it regeared within a month.
Tapatalk
Has anyone had luck with getting custom A/C lines made/ordered at the local parts store, or will I most likely need to get with a specialty A/C shop?
I haven't been to NAPA yet, but will drop by this weekend to talk to them.
edit: Here's an idea I got after seeing a picture of a 1986 K5 engine compartment. The A/C compressor lines are MUCH longer since it is located on the opposite side of the motor. This would be a great solution as it's still a factory part, and wouldn't require any custom fab or special order stuff.
Would this work for my application? Would the mounting plate/pad and thread pattern be the same?
I haven't been to NAPA yet, but will drop by this weekend to talk to them.
edit: Here's an idea I got after seeing a picture of a 1986 K5 engine compartment. The A/C compressor lines are MUCH longer since it is located on the opposite side of the motor. This would be a great solution as it's still a factory part, and wouldn't require any custom fab or special order stuff.
Would this work for my application? Would the mounting plate/pad and thread pattern be the same?
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So I quickly realized the lines for a v-belt engine wouldn't work because they stick out which would hit my air cleaner.
I did some research online and many companies make a GM Pad Mount adaptor to allow use of almost any type of refrigerant line. I'm linking below to the compressor accessory page of their site, but the specific part number I'll be using is 91-0007P which is the horizontal GM Pad Mount Adaptor ($32.50). This will let my lines clear beneath the air cleaner and just over the passenger side valve cover. Should work perfectly.
I have an email in to them for a quote on making custom length suction and discharge lines for my application and will update when I have a response.
http://www.oldairproducts.com/catal...cessories-c-1_50000000_57000000_69000004.html
I did some research online and many companies make a GM Pad Mount adaptor to allow use of almost any type of refrigerant line. I'm linking below to the compressor accessory page of their site, but the specific part number I'll be using is 91-0007P which is the horizontal GM Pad Mount Adaptor ($32.50). This will let my lines clear beneath the air cleaner and just over the passenger side valve cover. Should work perfectly.
I have an email in to them for a quote on making custom length suction and discharge lines for my application and will update when I have a response.
http://www.oldairproducts.com/catal...cessories-c-1_50000000_57000000_69000004.html
I just ran my air cleaner intake to the other side of the radiator.
Martin
Martin
So I'm going half @ssed now because the parts store didn't have the correct replacement suction/discharge lines, and I didn't want to pay the local A/C company $150 to make me some custom lines, plus another $32 for the GM Pad adaptor.
I spent $5 on some JB weld and will see if that holds up this weekend when I can get back over to my friend's place to recharge the system.
I spent $5 on some JB weld and will see if that holds up this weekend when I can get back over to my friend's place to recharge the system.
4xcrazy
3/4 ton status
You're going to end up spending more in the "half-assed-ness" fixes and trials than just getting the correct hose setup for your system. Freon is going to get expensive when you keep leaking it out trying these "fixes"
no
if compression fitting is not working, just go and make the right length hose, here in Sacto I can make one for about $35
Yep, you are much better off doing it the right way in the long run.
However, I also considered solder, but soft solder will not hold.
I could solder it with Phoscopper, and it would, but you have to get it too hot and would probably melt the rubber.
Also, Phoscopper will not solder to the steel well, you would have to use a higher silver content silver solder and flux.
But I could make it work except for the rubber. Even so, it would be a kludge.
However, I also considered solder, but soft solder will not hold.
I could solder it with Phoscopper, and it would, but you have to get it too hot and would probably melt the rubber.
Also, Phoscopper will not solder to the steel well, you would have to use a higher silver content silver solder and flux.
But I could make it work except for the rubber. Even so, it would be a kludge.
I know, but unfortunately the shop is in Ft. Worth and is only open when I'm at work Monday through Friday. Yesterday after work I charged it for a few seconds and heard a hissing noise coming from the underside of the fittings, so I put some more JB weld on it and I will try again tonight. I'm not doing a full charge, just releasing enough into the system to hear any leaks. Once I'm confident the leaks have stopped, I'll borrow my friend's vacuum pump and see if it'll hold overnight. If it does, then I'll know my JB weld fix worked.
If not, then I'll bite the bullet and see if I can get a day off to drive over to Ft. Worth and talk to the A/C shop about custom lines.
sorry, had to....
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Good news -- I found a shop in Mesquite that is open Saturday mornings and I have a call in to their custom hose guy to see what they can do for me. As soon as I get in touch w/ him I'll let you guys know pricing info & lengths.
One thing that is important: the Fort Worth shop only had standard fittings, and they were pretty sure the fittings on my condensor and drier are metric. I would have to bring in my lines so they could reuse the fittings for those attachment points.
I'm waiting to see if the Mesquite shop has metric fittings. If not I'll need to most likely buy a new suction/discharge line kit since I've properly f**ked my current condenser fitting.
To be continued when I get a return phone call...
One thing that is important: the Fort Worth shop only had standard fittings, and they were pretty sure the fittings on my condensor and drier are metric. I would have to bring in my lines so they could reuse the fittings for those attachment points.
I'm waiting to see if the Mesquite shop has metric fittings. If not I'll need to most likely buy a new suction/discharge line kit since I've properly f**ked my current condenser fitting.
To be continued when I get a return phone call...
4xcrazy
3/4 ton status
Reusing the fittings is usually what is done anyways, at least the past couple of times I've had hose/lines rebuilt, they'd just extend new lines some for more movement availability.
Have you ever heard of Swagelock fittings? It's basicly the same thing as your current setup, ie compression fittings with the exception of the materal being stainless steel. It is made for high preasure lines in the plants I work at, like600 psi.i0 the copper will expand and contract too much with temp. To make a correct seal.
