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The meaning of K5 versus K10, C20, V1500 -- or, how a K5 can be a C10

dremu

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Since this comes up a lot, I thought I'd lay it out in words and pictures. Purists please note I am glossing over some details and trying to give the general idea, so don't get your bowtie boxers in a bunch. Also remember I'm only discussing the 73-87/91 trucks of the "old" here, i.e. no 1988-91 IFS style, and only fullsize trucks -- no baby Blazers (S-10, etc.)

Executive Summary

In short, the "K5" is just a badge on the Blazers. Their actual model number is something else.

Numbers


1/2 ton trucks -- including pickups, Suburbans, and Blazes & Jimmies -- are called "10", "15" or "1500" series, depending on year. [Why the General called the Blazers "5" we'll never know.]

3/4 tons -- pickups and Suburbans only, as Blazers were never offered in 3/4 -- are correspondingly "20", "25" or "2500".

And 1-tons (only pickups) are "30", "35" or "3500."

The 10/20/30 designations were used by Chevy through 1988, after which they used 1500/2500/3500.

Series 15/25/35 were GMC's through 1978, after which they switched to the 1500/2500/3500.

So a '74 Blazer is a 10 series, a '74 Jimmy a 15, and either from 1990 is a 1500. With me so far? Good.

Letters

2WD trucks were prefaced with "C" and 4WD with "K", through 1986. For 1987-1991, the 2WD trucks were prefaced with "R", and 4WD with "V". (The "new" body style trucks got the C/K designations.)

This means that a 1974 2WD Blazer is a C10, "C" for 2WD and "10" for half-ton, and the 1990 Blazer is 4WD, so it's a V1500. [Did I mention that 2WD Blazers stopped in 1982?]

You'll see the old body style trucks for 1987-1991 referred to as "R/V" trucks for this reason. It's nothing to do with recreational vehicles, but delineates them as the old body style as opposed to the new IFS style. (R/V trucks included the Blazer/Jimmy, Suburban, crewcab pickups, and some cab-and-chassis trucks.)

Details

The full GM model for any given truck is even more complicated, as it indicates body style (Blazer, Burb, regular or four door pickup, bed type) and wheelbase. Depending on year, it would be something like C10103 or K10516. For examples, here's some material used for dealer training in 1977. First, the Blazer:


blazer4.jpg



...and here are the various pickup options:

pickups4.jpg


pickups5.jpg


Hopefully that all makes sense, although it's somewhat overwhelming.

If you want more information and/or are interested in the newer trucks, say, check out my Brochures pages. The pages above are from that site, and there's tons and tons more information, straight from the horse's mouth.

In conclusion, note that while us CK5-er's are knowledgeable Chebby nerds, you'll find lots of people -- and the parts houses -- don't know any better. MANY for-sale ads will list a "C20" that turns out to be 4WD (or for that matter, 1/2 ton :doah: ) and the like, so take what you read with a grain of salt. Even Helm, the folks that print the factory service manuals, get the letter/series designations wrong sometimes, and the parts houses will ask you about a 1990 "K1500" Blazer or whatever other nonsense.

Now that you know about the various options, you can prolly pick the right option on the computer, so that the pimply-faced idiot at the parts house doesn't have to know anything :D

-- A
 
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Cool, thanks for posting. I kinda knew some of it but never had it layed out like this, thanks.
 
My question to you is why was the family 69' 4x4 three door sub originally badged with C-10 on it?
 
My question to you is why was the family 69' 4x4 three door sub originally badged with C-10 on it?

I wonder if the badges for 67-72 all said "C". :thinking: I don't do so much for the older trucks, but there's some paperwork for them on the site.

If you get bored, check it out and let me know. :D

One possibility is that the truck was 2WD from the factory -- I know that early on, 4WD was often done aftermarket.

-- A
 
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This is getting linked from Facebook, so Dremu, could you correct the original post. You have 1987 being C/K, and R/V starting in 1988. That is incorrect. 1987 is the first year for the R/V body code.

Martin
 
My question to you is why was the family 69' 4x4 three door sub originally badged with C-10 on it?

I think GM just put C10 badges on all 1/2 ton trucks at that time, as I have seen multiple K10's with C10 badges.
 
Me too..^

I've seen many 67-72 4x4 pickups badged with C-10 and C-20 emblems..but who knows if they were "original",despite the original owners claims..

I had a '75 2WD Blazer that had factory K5 emblems,despite it not being a 4x4...far as I know the truck was unmolested,bought it from the original owners son...seems GM may have just slapped on whatever badges they had that day,just to fill the holes and get it off the assembly line ?..

Its hard to see in this picture--only one of it I have ..1975 K5 2WD Blazer.jpg
 
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Me too..^

I had a '75 2WD Blazer that had factory K5 emblems,despite it not being a 4x4...far as I know the truck was unmolested,bought it from the original owners son...seems GM may have just slapped on whatever badges they had that day,just to fill the holes and get it off the assembly line ?..View attachment 200908
Blazers always had the k5 blazer emblem on the fender whether they were 2 or 4 wheel drive. I always wondered why they didn't call the 2wd blazer a C5. Doesn't have a good ring to it i guess.
 
In conclusion, note that while us CK5-er's are knowledgeable Chebby nerds, you'll find lots of people -- and the parts houses -- don't know any better. MANY for-sale ads will list a "C20" that turns out to be 4WD (or for that matter, 1/2 ton :doah: ) and the like, so take what you read with a grain of salt. Even Helm, the folks that print the factory service manuals, get the letter/series designations wrong sometimes, and the parts houses will ask you about a 1990 "K1500" Blazer or whatever other nonsense.

Mann, do you have that right! When I bought my 1991 V3500 3+3 Silverado, the original owners had no clue what they had. When I was shopping for a truck, the newspaper advertisement read as follows "1991 Chevrolet truck. 1 or 3/4 ton. Good engine and transmission". That was it

When I called them on the phone to ask questions about it, I asked them is it 4- wheel drive? They said...Yes, I think so. Is it 1-ton or 3/4-ton? They said...I not sure. I asked...is it a single cab or crew cab? They said...whats a crew cab? I asked, does it have 4-doors or 2-doors? They said...It has 4-doors. I said...I will be right over!

When I came around the corner, after finding their house, I could not believe my eyes. It was a 1-ton crew cab 4X4. I tried my best not to show how bad I wanted the truck, but after starting it up, and inspecting the frame for damage, I gave them their asking price without questions.
 
I have bought a few vehicles and had that happen--you feel "too lucky to be true" when someone clearly knows not what they have..
It feels too good to be true...you wonder how people can be so vauge about what they drive daily..but many people are ..

You have to search "chevy truck" on craigslist,due to many not knowing if their vehicle has 4wd or whatever...those "short" ads always get me wondering..what is it REALLY?..


I dont try lowballing anyone if they aren't knowledgeable about what they own-if they are willing to sell it cheap,I still offer a good price--especially if they are nice people or elderly,etc....just because they are clueless doesn't mean I'll take advantage of that..I do not mind paying what a vehicle is worth "to me"...unlike flippers who want it for nothing and sell it later for huge profit..

I've also bought and re-sold a few cars & trucks for a few hundred more than I paid,when I could have gotten more--I'd rather see a truck saved from the crusher and someone else get some use out of it ,if I cant keep it..its better to see them be restored and driven,keep the hobby going..

I once bought a clean '66 Buick Wildcat 4 door with minor front fender damage,for 250 bucks,it had 66K on it..ran like new..mother who owned it had let her daughter use the car to get to Boston to college,and she had a minor fender bender,and the parents wanted "her in a safe car"..they had some notion once a car gets dented a little,it must be replaced..
Who was I to argue ?..

The woman wouldn't tell me what she wanted for it--she just kept saying "you make an offer"...when I said 250 bucks (which I felt was half what it was worth !),her face lit up and she said "YES!...like she'd won the lottery..I was the winner though --after we made out a bill of sale she admitted "I was really hoping to get at least 100 for it !---
I said "well,you can give me 100 back if you want..she declined,and we both laughed..her daughter was a knockout too..looked a lot like Sara Evans..

That car was one of the best I ever owned too..still felt like a new car,nice tight front end,the 401 nailhead ran great,the thing could suck the doors off many "muscle cars"..it was a neat sleeper..


I see quite a few "steals" that friends get from various sources,ones that have wholesalers licences and can buy at auctions or new car dealers--they like dealer trades the dealer "wants gone--need lot space for NEW cars"--they even sell a lot of them to nearby salvage and scrap yards just to be rid of them--let them deal with selling them,and all the potential pitfalls..

Most places here ,once a car or truck lands at the scrapyard or salvage yard,they wont bother selling it whole,knowing it is worth more in parts--and zero hassles with title problems or unhappy customers..which sucks,because many very desireable vehicles in decent condition with some issues that could be fixed fairly easy end up scrapped...
Unless you've been a steady customer of theirs for years,they balk at selling "complete" vehicles..unless of course,they can get top dollar..again,a few of my friends have done bussiness with many of these yards for years,so they have an "in",and can often score a nice vehicle for cheap money.

I've had cases where the sellers just wanted the vehicle gone too,and asap because they were moving,landlord said get rid of it or else.etc...after they had dealt with a few strokers on craigslist,they were frustrated enough to just call a salvage yard to come get it..
Usually though,when you show up to look the vehicle over,its worth suddenly increases to 500 or more bucks...still got some decent deals that way though...there are lots of deals like that around here due to forclosures,people getting locked up,etc..

I think its a shame that most of the history about GM's trucks and stuff like brochures and factory "build sheets" have been lost to time,or were just tossed--and we'll never really know the truth about what went on during the assembly of many of the vehicles...sadly most of the people who assembled them are now gone too.

I had a few older customers that worked at a GM plant in Framingham Ma,and they had many "stories" about working in the assembly line...how some parts were substituted during the 60's,like when they had to put Spicer rear diffs and Dana's in trucks when one gear division went on strike,and how they ran short of 2 bbl Rochester carbs in '71,when GM supplied Chrysler with them,when Carter went on strike...--things like that,that I found very interesting..one of the guys,who is now passed on,I saw at a cruise night,he was in a 74 Chevy 4x4 that was all original,but looked freshly restored--he was beaming,and said proudly "I was the guy who BUILT this truck in 1974 !..then I BOUGHT it!...:D...
 
This is getting linked from Facebook, so Dremu, could you correct the original post. You have 1987 being C/K, and R/V starting in 1988. That is incorrect. 1987 is the first year for the R/V body code.

Martin

It's critical that we have truthful information on Facebook :haha:

-- A
 
Since this comes up a lot, I thought I'd lay it out in words and pictures. Purists please note I am glossing over some details and trying to give the general idea, so don't get your bowtie boxers in a bunch. Also remember I'm only discussing the 73-87/91 trucks of the "old" here, i.e. no 1988-91 IFS style, and only fullsize trucks -- no baby Blazers (S-10, etc.)

Executive Summary

In short, the "K5" is just a badge on the Blazers. Their actual model number is something else.

Numbers

1/2 ton trucks -- including pickups, Suburbans, and Blazes & Jimmies -- are called "10", "15" or "1500" series, depending on year. [Why the General called the Blazers "5" we'll never know.]

3/4 tons -- pickups and Suburbans only, as Blazers were never offered in 3/4 -- are correspondingly "20", "25" or "2500".

And 1-tons (only pickups) are "30", "35" or "3500."

The 10/20/30 designations were used by Chevy through 1988, after which they used 1500/2500/3500.

Series 15/25/35 were GMC's through 1978, after which they switched to the 1500/2500/3500.

So a '74 Blazer is a 10 series, a '74 Jimmy a 15, and either from 1990 is a 1500. With me so far? Good.

Letters

2WD trucks were prefaced with "C" and 4WD with "K", through 1986. For 1987-1991, the 2WD trucks were prefaced with "R", and 4WD with "V". (The "new" body style trucks got the C/K designations.)

This means that a 1974 2WD Blazer is a C10, "C" for 2WD and "10" for half-ton, and the 1990 Blazer is 4WD, so it's a V1500. [Did I mention that 2WD Blazers stopped in 1982?]

You'll see the old body style trucks for 1987-1991 referred to as "R/V" trucks for this reason. It's nothing to do with recreational vehicles, but delineates them as the old body style as opposed to the new IFS style. (R/V trucks included the Blazer/Jimmy, Suburban, crewcab pickups, and some cab-and-chassis trucks.)

Details

The full GM model for any given truck is even more complicated, as it indicates body style (Blazer, Burb, regular or four door pickup, bed type) and wheelbase. Depending on year, it would be something like C10103 or K10516. For examples, here's some material used for dealer training in 1977. First, the Blazer:


blazer4.jpg



...and here are the various pickup options:

pickups4.jpg


pickups5.jpg


Hopefully that all makes sense, although it's somewhat overwhelming.

If you want more information and/or are interested in the newer trucks, say, check out my Brochures pages. The pages above are from that site, and there's tons and tons more information, straight from the horse's mouth.

In conclusion, note that while us CK5-er's are knowledgeable Chebby nerds, you'll find lots of people -- and the parts houses -- don't know any better. MANY for-sale ads will list a "C20" that turns out to be 4WD (or for that matter, 1/2 ton :doah: ) and the like, so take what you read with a grain of salt. Even Helm, the folks that print the factory service manuals, get the letter/series designations wrong sometimes, and the parts houses will ask you about a 1990 "K1500" Blazer or whatever other nonsense.

Now that you know about the various options, you can prolly pick the right option on the computer, so that the pimply-faced idiot at the parts house doesn't have to know anything :D

-- A
I know this post is ancient, but I wanted to comment on the meaning of the "K5" Blazers. My understanding of the "5" in "K5" was the designation given to the Blazer because the wheel base as shorter than the pick-ups. That was something my father told me way back in my teenage years. No idea if it's true, but it sounded logical.

For what it's worth, my father ran an autobody shop and his best friend owned a Chevy Dealership. That doesn't mean he gave me a true answer... It could've just been something he thought or made up without 100% knowing the answer. But I always trusted his car knowledge. Anyway, I just wanted to chime in with a possibility for the reason behind the "K5".
 
I know this post is ancient, but I wanted to comment on the meaning of the "K5" Blazers. My understanding of the "5" in "K5" was the designation given to the Blazer because the wheel base as shorter than the pick-ups. That was something my father told me way back in my teenage years. No idea if it's true, but it sounded logical.

For what it's worth, my father ran an autobody shop and his best friend owned a Chevy Dealership. That doesn't mean he gave me a true answer... It could've just been something he thought or made up without 100% knowing the answer. But I always trusted his car knowledge. Anyway, I just wanted to chime in with a possibility for the reason behind the "K5".

Nope.

It is a meaningless badge, nothing more.

Martin
 
Yeah, I don't think logic had anything to do with choosing that badge…:coolblue:
 
Most likely the marketing team mixed a little bit of heritage nomenclature and catchy name branding ( like GMC did with the extra whole “JIMMY” deal ) as they needed something that could compete with Bronco, Scout 800, CJ-5, Land Rover, FJ40 and Patrol - the branding of “K/5” met their goals and rolled off the tongue really well and was easy to remember. All of that was good for marketing and sales.

I really like the K/5 JIMMY name - a stroke of using GMC and naming greatness in my opinion!
 
My previous belief was that they were only rated at 1/4 ton so the 5.

Any way Welcome to CK5 @KevinG plenty of knowledge here even a few former GM corporate members, plenty of gm techs from back in the day. Feel free to ask anything.
 

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