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The "new" motor saga continues

prolinews

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What is necessary to run a e series transmission 60 or 80 with a 208 transfer case and have a mechanical spedometer? The reason I am asking is that in my number crunching for a replacement engine I keep trying to figure out what is going to be the best bang for the buck. I want more power reliability A/C and ease of installation. A stock replacement engine 2k no frills . A 5.7 vortec between the upgrades intake ebl 3k a ls swap 5.3 2k ? motor 500 dollars plus what ever else it takes to make it work? Custom harness and ecu 500 trying to get it to work with my 700r4 300? Trying to get my ac to work? Mounts exhaust? I have ran across a few late model 454 vortecs with 4l80 and everything else that goes with it for 1500. They look like a fairly easy swap? I was dead set on keeping my 700r4 at first but have ran across too many low mileage package deals with the e trans . Do I need to dump my 208 for a 241c passenger drop? I'm guessing that they all will bolt up to a 60 or 80? As far as the ls motors go , do you have to change the factory exhaust manifolds and if so what works GTO headers? Sorry for all the questions I just want to get it right the 1st time.
 
Decided to go. .................................454 vortec!
 
Seems like a lot of bang for the buck with the least amount of work. The transfer case with reluctor wheel situation seems to be the hurdle . I want to get all my parts and pieces together before I start pulling mine apart. I doubt my 10 bolt rear will last long so going to swap in the 14 bolt ahead of time just going to be goofy looking for awhile 8 in the rear and 6 lug front.
 
It's not a hurdle. Run a 241 and call it good. IMO ridiculous to consider this sort of swap then worry about little things like re-using an inferior transfercase, or at best one that makes things more difficult, when the "proper" one exists and is fairly easy to find. Take the instrument cluster and wiring out of the same donor rig as the 241, and be done with it.

Nothing is "easy", there will always be challenges. Looking for the easy way out only leads to problems. Looking for most cost effective is another story, but also have to be careful about wanting to save money only to regret it later...or spending money twice after you find a better solution. Do it right the first time, even if it costs more money. Always a good idea to ask opinions before dropping the $$, many people have done similar and are probably able to offer advice. No reason to have to do all the research like it's a new idea.

Don't fool yourself though, unless you've done this before, the truck is going to be down for quite some time, you are basically going to have to rewire it, along with all the other mechanical work to do.
 
As bad as I hate to say it but the A/C was the easy part that and motor mounts and exhaust. Just figure it will be a little bit easier than a ls swap. The harness and ecu will be just like a ls swap. There's a local guy that builds the harness and flashes the ecu for 500 s.https://atlanta.craigslist.org/sat/pts/5358169508.html these keep popping up too but are about twice the price as 7.4 vortec plus transmission.
 
You must ditch your mechanical speedometer if you want your transmission to shift. The VSS is not optional equipment and it will replace your speedometer cable drive when you put a 90/91 NP241 or NP205 in. You can run an electric speedometer from the same burb, K5 or crew cab quite easily. They look just like the older ones but work way better with no more jumping around and easy re-calibration. On top of that, the cluster will also have the check engine light in it as well, which an older truck will not have.

Expect your truck to be down for a long time while you re-wire everything. You also need to completely replace the fuel system including swapping to fuel tanks for fuel injection with baffles. These are not quick swaps. Even knowing exactly what I am doing, an LS re-power will take me the better part of a month working weekends.
 
I am pretty sure you can use the speed sensors that are in the 4l80, and run a mech speedo of off the t case. Seems like I remember somebody here talking about doing it that way, but needing ecm tuning to work correctly?
 
Thats alot of extra work to bypass using a better factory case in the first place. Plus those guys tend to have problems when shifted into low.
 
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