The rear window will not move

[SlicksInRain]

I am very sure the motor is still good. It used to just work to go up, but going down the motor would be dead. Then the switch in the interior went out completely, I could only use the key from the tailgate. Now nothing works and lucky the window is stuck up.

Sounds like it's wiring or something, but I don't know where to look or would even be able to tell what should be connected where.

Any advice guys?

 

[Silver84k5]

Check to make sure the latches on the sides of the tailgate are getting engaged all the way. If they dont, the window wont move...

I had a 77, and one of the pins, on the bed side was loose, when i slammed the tailgate closed, it would be latched on one side, all the way.

 

[Silver84k5]

If that isnt it, just get out a test light, and start poking around. Shouldnt be too hard to figure out.

 

[lectric80]

Check the grounds especially. The rear window works by providing constant power, meaning there are three wires going to it. One is always hot, the other two are hot with the dash switch. Inside the tailgate you have the switch at the key that takes that constant hot wire and switches depending on which way the window switch is turned.

First thing I would check is pull the access panel and remove the cable from the motor. Using an electric drill, run the cable up and down and see if the regulator is sticking or otherwise not moving, or if the cable is broken.

Next, use a test light to see if you are getting voltage through the (I believe) orange wire and a good ground through the tailgate. Especially in the rust belt, rust can form and cause a loss of ground. Remember, there is no ground wire, the whole shell and hinges provide the ground. If you have voltage through the orange wire, you can jump it to the other two to test the window circuit and see if the switch in the dash is bad. If you aren't getting voltage, look for broken wires or a fuse/breaker that is bad. If the voltage is good, and the cable/regulator is good, and the ground is good, the motor is probably bad.

 

[SlicksInRain]

I cannot seem to get the cable free. I know exactly what you are talking about though. I have done it a few times and since I had the truck redone, I cannot seem to even twist the plastic off. I am going back to that body shop tomorrow anyway.

As far as the tailgate not being closed all the way. I know it would still work because the "safety" feature was bypassed a few years ago and I never had a problem since then. I don't think the motor is shot because it was working. I don't know why it would work to go up, but not down... other than the safety feature that was bypassed. Even if it was to work again, the problem was the window not going up, going down was never an issue.

How can I remove that cable without breaking the plastic that you must twist?

 

[lectric80]

Maybe try getting some PB Blaster onto the connector might get it to break free. I don't know of any good way that can gaurantee you won't break the cable. Me being the impatient type, I would most likely grab a pair of pliers and get it off even if it meant breaking it.

As for the fact that it would go up, but not down, that leads me to suspect either the motor is worn, or the cable was binding. I say that because the safety switch won't allow the window to go up if the latches aren't locked, and you have bypassed this. But, when the motor is cranking the window down it is actually working against the springs in the regulator, whereas when going up the springs are doing a majority of the work. So if either the motor is worn or the cable is bad and binding, the window could roll up off the motor without rolling down.

 

[SlicksInRain]

Geeze man you know too much about these trucks!

I might be out near you area in a month or so and would love to buy you a drink. Thanks for all the info... all the time.

 

[lectric80]

It just takes time, and I have had lots of time in the past. Never a problem to offer advice, especially if it helps.