I have both. The 14bff has a detroit and the D60 has the ARB. They both have there place and I like my setup. It was a daily driver. I like the setup for street or trail.
CK5
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The ultimate locker post...
- Thread starter az-k5
- Start date
az-k5
1/2 ton status
This is just the kinda info I was hoping for. The going sensus seems to be that you can be happy with any of these set ups but would never live with an open rear end again. I am also happy to hear that what ever has been settled on works (nobody seems to regret their decision). This leaves me to believe that there isn't much of a driving difference to be seen between the options.
How about another question...
did any body have to "settle" for a detroit in their 14FF and still wish they would have waited for a selectable??
Keep it coming and thanx for the input
PS Yes I am pro auto-locker but I am also wondering which set up is better suited to the masses (selectable vs auto). I know this is like auto vs stick, but it is alway fun to hash out the details.
How about another question...
did any body have to "settle" for a detroit in their 14FF and still wish they would have waited for a selectable??
Keep it coming and thanx for the input
PS Yes I am pro auto-locker but I am also wondering which set up is better suited to the masses (selectable vs auto). I know this is like auto vs stick, but it is alway fun to hash out the details.
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1st off, I don't know how to vote because I too have a Detroit in the 14B and a ARB in the front D60. Which one do I vote for, front or rear??
No problems with either of them, never broke a single axle etc.
Having the ARB really helps the turning radius w/38.5" tires and I'd never change it. It also makes it easier on the 60 and the PS pump. Most of the trails don't require a front locker but when you need it, it's there.
My truck is not a DD but it does fine on the road.
If you have hydro-assist or a ram then a full time front locker might be nice but I don't think I would ever give up my ARB even if I had Hydro (someday I will).
Locked, Loaded and ready for rock.
No problems with either of them, never broke a single axle etc.
Having the ARB really helps the turning radius w/38.5" tires and I'd never change it. It also makes it easier on the 60 and the PS pump. Most of the trails don't require a front locker but when you need it, it's there.
My truck is not a DD but it does fine on the road.
If you have hydro-assist or a ram then a full time front locker might be nice but I don't think I would ever give up my ARB even if I had Hydro (someday I will).
Locked, Loaded and ready for rock.
I can't vote, 'cause you don't have a category for me. I have a Detroit in the front, and a spool in the rear. It's not a street truck, it's trail/off road only. If I was running a streetable rig, DEFINITELY Detroits front and rear.
MountainMan
Registered Member
i would love it if this site had a stats tracking area where all sorts of stats were kept about the stuff dudes run on their rigs, that would be sweet!
MountainMan
Registered Member
Done!
readymix
3/4 ton status
Detroit front and rear. Not as bad as most people make it out to be as far as steering goes.
i voted for selectable, since i have F/R ARBs. personally i love them, sure the setup is more involved and costs more than an auto, but i feel it was well worth it. i love the fact that my truck is open until i need it locked. personally the two reasons i went with arb was 1) f/r lockers arent the best choice for driving on snow/ice/ 2)forcing me to install a compressor so i can air up at the end of the day.i have had zero problems since istalling them 2 yrs ago.
one situation where my ARBs really made me happy about my purchase was wheeling up in the mountains on a snowy trail. this particular trail winds up one side of a peak, and then down the other, so there is alot of sidehilling and pretty severe angles. on the backside of the peak, the snow was 2ft deep and very loose. when putting along with the rear engaged, the rear axle kept wanting the slide downhill. this was very bad since sliding off the trail ment sliding off a cliff. the simple fix was to unlock the rear and run open/open 4wd. as soon as i hit the switch the truck gained lateral traction and kept putting along. if i had an auto locker i would be screwed.
one situation where my ARBs really made me happy about my purchase was wheeling up in the mountains on a snowy trail. this particular trail winds up one side of a peak, and then down the other, so there is alot of sidehilling and pretty severe angles. on the backside of the peak, the snow was 2ft deep and very loose. when putting along with the rear engaged, the rear axle kept wanting the slide downhill. this was very bad since sliding off the trail ment sliding off a cliff. the simple fix was to unlock the rear and run open/open 4wd. as soon as i hit the switch the truck gained lateral traction and kept putting along. if i had an auto locker i would be screwed.
I currently have a welded 14FF and a Lock-right in the front 60. A good friend is running a welded D70 rear and Lock-right 60 front in his Furd F-250.
Neither one of us have had any issues with the welded rear axles. I went from a l/s rear to the welded and besides for a little tire chirp at low speeds there are really no handling issues on the road. I did notice a pretty big increase in rear tire wear with both MT/R's and TSL's, with the TSL's really wearing quick (I tow it now, so it's not a problem). The Furd is still driven to the trails (average 200 mile round trip) and his rear tires really don't seem to be wearing much, if any, quicker than the fronts......these were the same size TSL's as I had. I imagine a lot of that is due to the light rear axle weight of the pickup vs. Blazer.
On the front Lock-rights, again neither of us have had any failures while running 38" TSL's and pretty heavy trail use. My Lock-right survived breaking the shortside inner shaft (old necked-down version) this fall and the Furd broke a front driveshaft this last weekend. The Furd is also now running 42" TSL's so that should put it to the test.
I had previously ran a l/s front axle on my Blazer before going to the Lock-right. For turning, I really don't notice much of a difference on the trail and really never have a steering issue that can be contributed to the locker. I do occassionally shift into 2wd if I need to do a multi-point turn, but mainly so I can spin the rear tires and slide it around easier.
Neither one of us have had any issues with the welded rear axles. I went from a l/s rear to the welded and besides for a little tire chirp at low speeds there are really no handling issues on the road. I did notice a pretty big increase in rear tire wear with both MT/R's and TSL's, with the TSL's really wearing quick (I tow it now, so it's not a problem). The Furd is still driven to the trails (average 200 mile round trip) and his rear tires really don't seem to be wearing much, if any, quicker than the fronts......these were the same size TSL's as I had. I imagine a lot of that is due to the light rear axle weight of the pickup vs. Blazer.
On the front Lock-rights, again neither of us have had any failures while running 38" TSL's and pretty heavy trail use. My Lock-right survived breaking the shortside inner shaft (old necked-down version) this fall and the Furd broke a front driveshaft this last weekend. The Furd is also now running 42" TSL's so that should put it to the test.
I had previously ran a l/s front axle on my Blazer before going to the Lock-right. For turning, I really don't notice much of a difference on the trail and really never have a steering issue that can be contributed to the locker. I do occassionally shift into 2wd if I need to do a multi-point turn, but mainly so I can spin the rear tires and slide it around easier.
I voted spool but I qualify for a couple of choices...
The axles for my trail project have a spool in the rear (D70HD) and a Power Lock in the front (D60).
My daily driver has a Detroit in the rear (14 bolt) and a Trac Lock in the front (D60).
For the record - I like the Detroit, it's 15+ years old and still super dependable with good street manners. The spool is going to be a new thing for me so I'm interested to see what that's like to drive.
The axles for my trail project have a spool in the rear (D70HD) and a Power Lock in the front (D60).
My daily driver has a Detroit in the rear (14 bolt) and a Trac Lock in the front (D60).
For the record - I like the Detroit, it's 15+ years old and still super dependable with good street manners. The spool is going to be a new thing for me so I'm interested to see what that's like to drive.
SlyDog
1/2 ton status
I have a detroit in my 14FF and open front 60 right now. I love the 14 bolt from the short time that I've had it and haven't even noticed it on the road. Very soon I willbe getting a detroit for the front and don't forsee problems due to the hydro/crossover steering.
Paxx
1/2 ton status
One thing I have noticed on the detroit is that the effects of it are far more noticable on the street with a manual tranny. My friends truck is equipped similar to mine only with an auto instead of the manual and with his set-up I hardly notice the detroit on the street where mine is extremely noticable. I think the torque-converter really softens the torque hitting the rear end and thus the effects of the detroit. I actually try to avoid driving my truck around town now. It is inescapable due to the fact that it is my DD but I can honestly say I don't like driving in town now when I used to love it. Off-road though there is no comprimise. Locked rocks period. I think the trade-offs are worth it though and I would never go back on my decision to install it, DD or not.
I think the trade-offs are worth it though and I would never go back on my decision to install it, DD or not.
pauly383
Daddy383
With an automatic , I think its more of the driveshaft is nearly always turning with the motor and trans working against the rearend and road unless you are stopped with the brakes applied , unlike with a manual where you can can clutch it and load/unload rather harshly . So the auto is mostly always engaged 
4trolls
1/2 ton status
I have a welded d44 in the rear of my cj3 and it fixed some problems for me, the jeep wants to drive straighter than it did ,which is good cause it wandered really bad before. I have a 78 suburban 3/4 ton on 39.5 irocks that I may weld the 14bff in but havent decided yet...wish I could drive a welded sub on 39.5s first to see ,if it is 2x worse than the jeep I'll do it but I am worried that it will be 4x worse with the bigger tires and more weight. I will say that Ive been invited to go wheelin 2xs this month and I find my self not wanting to go with open diffs and thats not like me at all!
blk87K5
1/2 ton status
I have ran detroits F&R in all three of the rigs I have driven/competed in (TJ on 9" axles front/rear, K5 on 60/14 and 42's, and now my comp buggy). I could be happier with the proven performance of a detroit. The detroit in my last D60 survived 10 broken shafts without a single problem. I have driven the K5 and the TJ on the street in almost every condition imaginable in Texas or Denver without ever wishing for something different. The traction offroad is undeniable, and a twin stick t-case will make up for not having a selectable locker on turns. I would however, love to play with the new 14 bolt ARB in my comp buggy whenever Tech Tim will let loose of a few. When my buggy was built it was designed around ARB's so it shouldnt be too much of a problem. Cutting brakes and an open rear can do some interesting things.
K5MONSTERCHEV
1/2 ton status
I have a detroit in mine, Ill be the one truck which isnt a daily driver, nor trailer queen, but it doesnt get beaten off road. I have a stick and the locker takes up all the freeplay where the spiders once absorbed it, so if you going slow, itll bang and clunk, which gets annoying. I dont mind it, its not as bad as everyone makes it seem. I got used to driving it pretty quick, but I also dont drive like a maniac. Its fun in the rain, just have to be careful, just too much throttle and itll get loose, espically with the 42's. You do get good at gettin sideways, and its so cool to get a big 'ol truck loose like its a car.
juanblzer
1/2 ton status
I had a truetrac in a dana 44 with a 14 bolt and detroit locker. With the wheeling we do the true trac fell apart and destroyed the r&p in the 44. I swapped in a dana 60 and had it "Open" for a short while.
When I gathered the cashola to go ARB I was pleasantly suprised. I can unlock on turns and when I dont need it locked. THis is really cool. I will only ever have selectable lockers up front. As far as the rear goes, I may (when the price goes down) delve into a selectable locker. Don't get me wrong, I love the detroit (its super stout) but it would be nicer as a daily driven rig, to not chirp the tires and attract police attention.
I had only a couple of problems with my ARB. The blue line that comes with the ARB burned on my headers ( I upgraded to the braided line kit) and got rid of my headers. THat hasn't happened again since. I also had a leak on the "can" side of my ARB pump. I tightened it and it is A-ok now. I'm pretty hard on my truck, i should probably maintain a little better, and baby it a little more...but i don't think that is going to happen.
When I gathered the cashola to go ARB I was pleasantly suprised. I can unlock on turns and when I dont need it locked. THis is really cool. I will only ever have selectable lockers up front. As far as the rear goes, I may (when the price goes down) delve into a selectable locker. Don't get me wrong, I love the detroit (its super stout) but it would be nicer as a daily driven rig, to not chirp the tires and attract police attention.
I had only a couple of problems with my ARB. The blue line that comes with the ARB burned on my headers ( I upgraded to the braided line kit) and got rid of my headers. THat hasn't happened again since. I also had a leak on the "can" side of my ARB pump. I tightened it and it is A-ok now. I'm pretty hard on my truck, i should probably maintain a little better, and baby it a little more...but i don't think that is going to happen.
6.2Blazer said:I currently have a welded 14FF and a Lock-right in the front 60. A good friend is running a welded D70 rear and Lock-right 60 front in his Furd F-250.
Neither one of us have had any issues with the welded rear axles. I went from a l/s rear to the welded and besides for a little tire chirp at low speeds there are really no handling issues on the road. I did notice a pretty big increase in rear tire wear with both MT/R's and TSL's, with the TSL's really wearing quick (I tow it now, so it's not a problem). The Furd is still driven to the trails (average 200 mile round trip) and his rear tires really don't seem to be wearing much, if any, quicker than the fronts......these were the same size TSL's as I had. I imagine a lot of that is due to the light rear axle weight of the pickup vs. Blazer.
On the front Lock-rights, again neither of us have had any failures while running 38" TSL's and pretty heavy trail use. My Lock-right survived breaking the shortside inner shaft (old necked-down version) this fall and the Furd broke a front driveshaft this last weekend. The Furd is also now running 42" TSL's so that should put it to the test.
The Lockright bought the farm in mid March 2005. Lockright/Richmond Gear Customer Service IS SUPERB based upon my experience. Would I run another lockright in another vehicle? Of course. Would I stick another one back in my off-road rig after one failed? Yes, if I had to. I bought a Detroit, and installed it. On paper, the Detroit is stronger. However, the Lockright has a two year warranty, and I can vouch for the fact that they stand behind it. The Detroit only has a one year warranty, and from what I have personally read via the internet, Detroit (Tractech -sic?-) are pretty bad about honoring their warranty......discrediting most warranty claims as, "An axle broke first, and that caused the failure." This information is directly from staff at PORC, and I doubt that they were lying about it. Anyway, I hope I don't break it (the Detroit) but I cannot say enough about the Richmond/Powertrax warranty department (ask for Jeff). They did not once ask me "what size tires are you running." If that question were to have been asked, I may have even fibbed.
I had previously ran a l/s front axle on my Blazer before going to the Lock-right. For turning, I really don't notice much of a difference on the trail and really never have a steering issue that can be contributed to the locker. I do occassionally shift into 2wd if I need to do a multi-point turn, but mainly so I can spin the rear tires and slide it around easier.
BTW, I'm new to this board, I drive a Ford, but it's still "Us" (Fullsize guys) vs. "Them" (Heepers) in my book.
Buford
