The Wonton

[folkenheath]

Perfect hot for teacher rhythm!

Man, I want one of my big blocks to sound like that someday.

Camshaft and headers.

He hit the first 4 bolt on upgrades I usually recommend for a BBC.

headers, cam, intake + carb (or EFI tune)

The next step gets expensive because it involves cylinder heads and/or cranks and pistons so you get a lot of bang for your buck with those mods he did.

 

[USSkoval]

Camshaft and headers.

He hit the first 4 bolt on upgrades I usually recommend for a BBC.

headers, cam, intake + carb (or EFI tune)

The next step gets expensive because it involves cylinder heads and/or cranks and pistons so you get a lot of bang for your buck with those mods he did.

I'm glad you approve, lol. I told him he needed that gen 6 and heads, and told him he needed that intake and cam. However, Jon did surprise me a with a double pumper. I assumed he would have went vacuum secondary. But Jon is a baller like that, lol.

 

[Jonathan L]

Perfect hot for teacher rhythm!

Man, I want one of my big blocks to sound like that someday.

I was stoked to hear it lol, it does sound pretty close to the hot for teacher rhythm too which is pretty slick

 

[Jonathan L]

Camshaft and headers.

He hit the first 4 bolt on upgrades I usually recommend for a BBC.

headers, cam, intake + carb (or EFI tune)

The next step gets expensive because it involves cylinder heads and/or cranks and pistons so you get a lot of bang for your buck with those mods he did.

Yes I didn’t have the budget to go all out but I wanted to to at least cover the basics

 

[Jonathan L]

I'm glad you approve, lol. I told him he needed that gen 6 and heads, and told him he needed that intake and cam. However, Jon did surprise me a with a double pumper. I assumed he would have went vacuum secondary. But Jon is a baller like that, lol.

Maybe later down the line I’ll get fancy heads but for now this is pretty darn good for me

 

[Jonathan L]

Well that stinks. My valve adjustments were not the best apparently LOL. Anywho, @folkenheath got any good reccomendatons for stock length sets of 3/8 pushrods for a gen 6 454?

 

[USSkoval]

Well that stinks. My valve adjustments were not the best apparently LOL. Anywho, @folkenheath got any good reccomendatons for stock length sets of 3/8 pushrods for a gen 6 454?
View attachment 532374

I already harassed him in a PM for you, lol.

 

[shady]

Check your intake bolt length.

When we had bent, fugged up pushrods on the wife's car recently, we found that an intake bolt was a bit too long, and just barely pushing on one of the rods. Which caused it to bend then break.

 

[USSkoval]

Check your intake bolt length.

When we had bent, fugged up pushrods on the wife's car recently, we found that an intake bolt was a bit too long, and just barely pushing on one of the rods. Which caused it to bend then break.

Nah... Jon is a victim of himself sometimes @Jonathan L

We are pretty sure it was a combo of a loose valve adjustment and 3/8" guide plates being used with 5/16" pushrods. Not positive, but nearly certain.

 

[Jonathan L]

Nah... Jon is a victim of himself sometimes @Jonathan L

We are pretty sure it was a combo of a loose valve adjustment and 3/8" guide plates being used with 5/16" pushrods. Not positive, but nearly certain.

Live and learn, that’s the way it goes sometimes. Now I know

 

[folkenheath]

I don't think I've ever seen 5/16 pushrods on a big block. I typically recommend one piece chromemoly pushrods. But I can get factory type replacements with pressed or welded on ends.

Are you sure the stock length was good geometry? Any good ones left to check that before we get a replacement set?

 

[Jonathan L]

I don't think I've ever seen 5/16 pushrods on a big block. I typically recommend one piece chromemoly pushrods. But I can get factory type replacements with pressed or welded on ends.

Are you sure the stock length was good geometry? Any good ones left to check that before we get a replacement set?

We checked length yesterday and measurements are roughly 7 5/8” and 8 1/2”

 

[USSkoval]

I don't think I've ever seen 5/16 pushrods on a big block. I typically recommend one piece chromemoly pushrods. But I can get factory type replacements with pressed or welded on ends.

Are you sure the stock length was good geometry? Any good ones left to check that before we get a replacement set?

Geometry seemed good, but we can double check. *Rough* measurements were 7 5/8" and 8 5/8"... whatever the stock length would be for a gen6. All my truck big blocks are/were 5/16" pushrods too. Seems ridiculous, imho. The '78 now has chromoly 3/8" pushrods after a failed timing sprocket incident in GA. The 3/8" was Jon's intent too (hence the 3/8" guide plates), he just forgot about them.

 

[folkenheath]

A set of stock replacement type Howards, (but thicker wall and hardened for guideplates are about $75), the chrome moly one piece are about $190 - $225 a set. I can check other brands just giving you a ballpark. They are about 7.600/8.600 to 7.700/7.800 in length depending on brand for the "recommended" length. Its best to measure for each application since you changed the cam but with the adjustable valvetrain many people get away with just using the standard length. Just make sure you check the geometry after you assembler to be sure it's good to go.

Since you had 5/16" pushrods in 3/8 guideplates make sure you aren't knocking a retainer loose or damaged some. I'd hate to see you put it back together and then drop a valve because of what happened before. So inspect all your valve tips, retainers, and locks to make sure they are all seated.

Let me know if you want me to get you a set.