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Theft proof with doors and top off??

85mudblazin

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I remember seeing a thread awhile back about this I think it was kidjethro that started it. But what are some ways to keep my rig theft proof when I take my doors and top off??
I can take the face plate off my radio but I am left with a amp and to 6x9s that I dont eally care about.
I was thinking of making some type of metal box that the amp can fit into but leave the top open but make it tall enough athat you would have to take the seat out to get to it??
so how to stop them fron starting it? I assume a hidden kill switch but is there another way since anyone that rides with me would know how to start my truck?
I have heard of these column locks, id like more info on them.
Thanks
-Chris
 
Kill switch, and a siren/strobe hooked into a keyed source with a switch on it. If they get to a point where they can try to start it the siren will go off so they will not have any time to find the kill switch.
 
Simple theft prevention is put the t-case in neutral. Adrenaline is pretty high when you are doing something illegal and most theives if they get it started and put it in gear will run away after a few seconds the rest of them will either grind the crap out of the t-case trying to shift it while the truck is in gear. This technique succesfully prevented my truck from being "stolen" (by a freind) once
 
Just make it ugly enough...

I leave my Jimmy unlocked always and I live in a not so great neighborhood. I think most 'kids' don't want to mess with the standard tranny. I also have a crappy stereo. Suits me just fine...no busted glass or messed up dash.

I'd leave my T-case in neutral if I had an Ebrake :blush:

Rene
 
I figure most of the stupid punk car thieves wouldn't be able to figure out how to drive my truck anyway. They'd probably see the shifter and whiz their pants and move on to the SUV next to me with the automatic tranny and push button 4wd.:p:
 
Yes we have 'bad' neighborhoods too. :) A year or two ago Surrey was the car theft capitol of North America, but things have improved a lot since then.

Rene
 
my truck has a toggle switch ignition and pushbutton starter. my toggle switch looks just like the ones fro my lights, etc. the pushbutton is under the dash, but i plan on moving it to the firewall where i can tap it with my toe, or on the front of my seat (under the upholstery). and on mine, you still have to have the keys to take it out of park.
 
Get a high beam switch that mounts on the floor (old style). That is your kill switch. Click it when you park and no ignition. When you get in to drive with friends I highly doubt they will notice you clicking it so you can start your truck.
 
thats a good idea, but i want to put the high beam switch back on the floor, i dont like the collum one:D
 
If you wire in a kill switch make it kill the ignition or fuel source, so the starter will still crank the engine but it won't fire. That way some thieves may just think it won't start......if it won't crank at all they will most likely start looking for a switch.
 
The column guards IMO are one of the best physical protection devices. Busting the column on these trucks is the #1 way to steal them, since it is identical to how you steal all GM vehicles with this column...you can steal one GM, you can steal them all. (again, with same column design, which is essentially most of the 70's through the 90's)

The column guard isn't theft proof, nothing is, but you'd need a fair amount of tools to remove it, and it would take time.

It's also red (the one I use) and you would HOPE that most thieves would see it before starting to tear up other stuff.

Basically, it prevents a thief from steering the vehicle. The steering wheel locks normally, but the housing to access that lock is the same housing where the key cylinder/rack assembly is, and worst of all, that housing is plastic. Break out the passenger side of the column and you unlock the wheel AND can start it as if you had a key.

The column guards surround that housing, so you'd have to remove that to start and steer it. The one I use is removable, which makes it a BIT of a hassle, (can use it on my car too though) but I didn't want one of the steadfast(?) ones that is more or less permanent and IMO ugly.

On a non-ECM vehicle, there is no way an ignition switch is going to stop someone that is even slightly determined. All you have to do is jump the coil wire to battery 12V, and turn the starter over, (you can do that with a screwdriver) and you've stolen the vehicle. If you can't steer, you aren't going far without a trailer, and if they have a trailer, its going no matter what you have for security.

I got my guard for something like $70, (I think the steadfast one is around $120) I believe I still have a source if interested.
 
You can get a moderatly priced alarm system and wire in a perimiter sensor (uses microwaves) to keep people out. One of our installers at work did that in his jeep. You can set it so that it will do just a bit outside the truck. When someone comes real close it will emit a warning chirp, then if they stick and arm in or smomething the alarm goes off with a starter kill. Works real good and keeps people walking to the next vehicle without the blinking light.

Oh by the way hello all.
First Post. Dont own a K5 tho, I have a 92 k1500.

Mike
 
Ive got the power wire to my HEI ignition running to the fuse box. I always simply unplug this wire when I park it anywhere. I used to have it wired to a kill switch but the switch kept failing and the truck wouldnt start so I now just unplug the wire. I like the idea of putting the t-case in neutral as well...oh and as far as being theft proof, that's impossible. Ive heard of rigs getting loaded on flat beds, there was one in Phoenix recently that was chained to a post, the thieves cut the chain and loaded the tube buggy on a flatbed in broad daylight. :crazy:
 
I have an hidden switch in-line to the fuel-pump's ignition wire that has to be on to fire.

I also, though I don't do it but can if Ineed to, have a line-lock that I can leave engaged... (but I bet it would drain the battery :confused: ). Also, the T-case in neutral is also a good idea, but not fool-proof.
 
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