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Theft Proofing your K5 - What to do?

well I have a fuel pump kill switch
just installed my msd 6al and timing control and going to add a kill switch to that as per msd website.... hmmm that lighter trick would be cool.....

My father used to use the highbeam on the floor as a kill switch.. and since I went to a newer column I could use that too......

I remember years ago... jcwhitney had a kill switch jumber plug... it clips to your keys... so you take it off.. plug it in and it X up wires ... when you leave pull the plug.....

my best theft deterant device is this...
my neighbor... he is sooo nosy that if he even sees anyone stop at my driveway he notifies me.. hell if he saw my truck move.. he would call me and also confront them while calling me... yes he is a black belt... I know a 357 to the tooth dont care about black belts.... :haha:




you could always put one of these on your dash...
istockphoto_3630193_enviro_emboss_buttons.jpg





or this...
first put a sticker on it saying..

incorrect sequence = NUKEM!!!!
keypad.gif
 
is it pretty safe to say most stolen vehicles are driven away...
Meaning if broken into.. the thief/a-hole drives them away to be stripped.. or trashed... ?

So the easiest way is to make the truck un startable? or started long enough to make it 100 yards into the middle of traffic...
I'd think a fuel cut off switch would do this wouldnt it? The residual fuel would let it start long enough to get out of the parkign lot perhaps... dyeing and drawing attention to the a hole thief???
 
Here's what I've thought about doing.

  1. Sinking 2 blocks of concrete in the ground and chaining down the truck.
  2. I have a Grant steering wheel and they make a setup that allows you to remove the wheel and install a cap all done with a key.
  3. Making my driver's seat tilt forward and add a devide to lock it that way so it covers the steering wheel.
  4. I park my truck so it's pinned in by 2 other vehicles.

I had my truck broken into almost 3yrs ago when I left it parked at our shop overnight. They stole everything, including the front seats. :( I have since bolted and/or locked down everything inside the truck. I even put a bicycle cable lock on my suspension seats.

My biggest fear is having the entire truck stolen, that's what my list is geared towards. My neighbor across the street had his nice, lifted '79 Ford stolen shortly after we moved in, and we live in a quiet, sleepy little town.
 
reddog64 said:
is it pretty safe to say most stolen vehicles are driven away...
Meaning if broken into.. the thief/a-hole drives them away to be stripped.. or trashed... ?

So the easiest way is to make the truck un startable? or started long enough to make it 100 yards into the middle of traffic...
I'd think a fuel cut off switch would do this wouldnt it? The residual fuel would let it start long enough to get out of the parkign lot perhaps... dyeing and drawing attention to the a hole thief???
Click to expand...
My truck was "stripped" without being moved.

The problem I have with the truck still being able to move some distance is that it may not help. My neighbor that had his stolen knows they didn't start his truck because he had the fuel pump shut-off switch concept in his truck. They figure the thieves rolled his truck a couple of blocks away where they could mess with it without my neighbor coming out and catching them. Or I've even heard of vehicles being rolled far enough away to be loaded on a roll-off tow truck.
 
Hmm. Maybe a locking e-brake setup? Make them take the time to crawl under and cut the cables if they want to roll it away.
 
When I was in college I had some issues with this. At the time the K5 was really nice and shiny with fancy chrome bumpers, lifted, with nice aluminum wheels, etc... Even though I lived on a busy college campus with people walking around at all hours of the night, and the truck was parked 50 ft. from my house, it was broken into once and then completely stolen later.

The first time I had one of those steering wheel clubs on it, and it worked...well, at least kept the truck was getting stolen. They punched the door lock, and then proceeded to completely shatter the tilt column (steering wheel was swinging around from the steering shaft) and you could see where they had beat on the club with a hammer or something.

6 months later they came back, but this time they must of had some sort of cordless saw and just cut the steering wheel and slide off the club (super clean cuts, no way it was a hacksaw or anything). Found the truck several weeks later stripped down and covered in mud in a parking lot on the edge of town. They started it by smashing the column.

After that I installed a hidden kill switch, and would put the t-case in neutral (and set the parking brake). The engine would still crank over fine but wouldn't fire, and I figured if they did get it started hopefully in the dark they couldn't figure out why it wouldn't move. Fortunately never had a chance to test these methods out.

I always thought that the removeable steering wheel with the guard over the end would work really good. Also a column guard would work since that's the easiest way to start the older trucks. As far as actually getting in the trucks the easiest, and least noticable way, was to punch the lock cylinder on the door. Always figured you could reinforce this area inside the door and make it really hard (the "theft ring" I dealt with always punched the passenger door, that way it wasn't as noticable to cops driving down the road....had at least 4 other friends have their vehicle stolen in this same area). When they came back the second time you could tell they tried to punch the pass. side but the previous repairs beefed it up enough to make it hard...so they just punched out the drivers side.
 
Buy 12V blinking LED's from radio shack, and wire the negative lead to ignition positive (Yes, positive!), and the positive lead to constant 12V. When you turn the ignition off, ignition positive has enough accessories to hold the ignition circuit at ground, and the LED will automatically start blinking when the ignition is killed. This is a cheap $5 added assurance. Most thieves wont mess with a car that looks like it is armed. Guys with power windows and locks already have constant and ignition power in the doors, so it is really easy to add led's at the top of the doors where they can easily be seen. If you cant find a 12V LED (Sometimes harder to find), a cheap resister can be used to step down the voltage.
 
3/4 Ton Blazer said:
Buy 12V blinking LED's from radio shack, and wire the negative lead to ignition positive (Yes, positive!), and the positive lead to constant 12V. When you turn the ignition off, ignition positive has enough accessories to hold the ignition circuit at ground, and the LED will automatically start blinking when the ignition is killed. This is a cheap $5 added assurance. Most thieves wont mess with a car that looks like it is armed. Guys with power windows and locks already have constant and ignition power in the doors, so it is really easy to add led's at the top of the doors where they can easily be seen. If you cant find a 12V LED (Sometimes harder to find), a cheap resister can be used to step down the voltage.
Click to expand...


you could put a starving gator on the front seat too!!!! :haha:

I also found this for steering wheels...
1043320069-disklok%20yell3.jpg

disclock.jpg


this for windows
ptdecal.gif



if you are not that electronic savy to do the led... you could buy this...
car_light_car.gif


http://www.spygear4u.com/proddetail.asp?prod=SW-WWM296
 
I has a buddy that had a mix of deterrents...

Push cig lighter in to start.
Grant Removable steering wheel.
Battery kill switch.
 
I use "old school" deterent

K5 parked near house. 2 very curious (& loud) dogs. 1 Shotgun, 2 .357s
 
i had an alarm in my blazer, i also used a battery killl switch, and pull the fuse for the coil (painless wiring harness). i have a msd distributer with just a mag pickup, so i could install a swtich on the 2 wires coming from the there to keep it from firing as well. theres lots of ways to disable a vehicle.
 
This is my setup whenever my K5 is parked. Plus I have a kill switch located in a safe place.

no drive.jpg
 
An other idea s to wire a switch to the driver seatbelt, two wires at the bottom that tell you to buckle up? I don't think that many thieves would buckle up first.

I was also going to wire a magnetic sensor used in industrial equipment, when a metallic object is close 1/2-1" it closes a circuit, but it does not need to touch, so it could be buried in the dash or bezel, just hold something over that spot to start.
 
That magnetic switch is a proxy switch and are pricey. But that would be original.
 
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