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Think I can man handle a np208 w/o a jack?

MrSchaeferPants

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I need to replace the input seal cause it's leaking pretty bad. Supposed to go to the park tomorrow for our club run but I've been putting off doing the seal cause I don't have a floor jack, and I know this thing weighs about 90lbs empty.

I'll be doing it on dirt and rocks and weeds... cause that's all I have :D

And, if anyone knows off hand, is the seal the same for the 208 input, and 700r4 output? Figure, might as well, ya know.

I do have a nice bottle jack but I mean, how would I slide the tc backwards, and then still balance it on a bottle jack... so. :dunno: Maybe if I had someone helping me balance it.
 
I'd recommend bracing/shoring your 700R4 w/ a couple 2x4's so you dont bend your flywheel and then use a piece of plywood on your jack to place your t-case on. I had to do something similar when I had my tranny rebuilt and tcase resealed about two years ago.
 
I'm 155lbs and 6'2". I'm a skinny guy, and I've taken out and put my 208 in with just these big ole guns :pimp:



Drain the fluid first, that's a little less weight in it.
 
I'd recommend bracing/shoring your 700R4 w/ a couple 2x4's so you dont bend your flywheel and then use a piece of plywood on your jack to place your t-case on. I had to do something similar when I had my tranny rebuilt and tcase resealed about two years ago.

Good call, I do usually brace the trans, had thought about it, and already forgot. Good to be reminded :waytogo: I thought about getting something to put on the bottle jack, still in the air.

I'm 155lbs and 6'2". I'm a skinny guy, and I've taken out and put my 208 in with just these big ole guns :pimp:



Drain the fluid first, that's a little less weight in it.

Yeah the weight itself isn't too big of a deal, but I hear stories of guys F'ing up the seal putting it back in. I guess letting it slide, wrong angle blah blah. I dunno, I'll go lay under there and stare at it for a while till I figure it out. I mean, I do needa just go buy a jack just cause. Left mine with my buddy when I moved :doah:
 
Those seals are a blast to replace :doah:


I bent up the end of a screw driver and ground it down so it fits in behind the seal, pair of dogs and a hammer and work your way around it.
 
I'd rent a floor jack or transmission jack,and use a sheet of plywood for a work surface...sure you might be able to bench press it up and in there,but why risk injury or dropping the case and cracking it?...hate to be reading a post here tomorrow about how it crushed your rib cage in...:doah:..


You can rent one pretty cheap from U-haul or similar places...

I use my floor jack with a transmission cradle adapter that slides in place of the saddle..its clumsy but much better than trying to lift one in lying under the truck..

When we lacked proper tools at the junkyard,we invented our own...

We had a crappy old leaky floor jack there,that couldn't be trusted to stay up for long.it leaked fluid and would slowly droop, so we hated using it under a car on transmissions,and no room to pump the handle, meant taking the handle off and using pliers or vise grips to pump it up or lower it...it sucked!


I remember us using an old push mower deck with no engine,a peice of plywood bolted over the hole where the engine went,and an old inner tube with another peice of plywood on top of it,to pull and replace a tranny...it was good for automatics ,they had a nice flat pan and sat on the wood without flopping around,unlike manuals and t-cases,
so you had to be careful they didn't tumble off during the lifting process.... it was a lot better than nothing!...had to use a peice of the air hose off an old manual type air pump so we could acess the valve stem to pump up and lower the pressure in the tube to lift and lower the "jack"...(good thing many junked cars had those foot pumps in their trunks!)..
We ended up using a 12V air pump we found in a junk cars trunk to pump it up so we could use it where our compressors hose didn't reach..

It worked pretty good on automatic trannies,they have a flat pan and sit nicely on the wood,but manuals and t-cases were a lot trickier,they lack a flat base and we had no means of chaining them to the plywood...

One day the boss saw us using it,had a good laugh,said "You guys are nuts,what if the tube pops?"...:eek1:... he felt sorry for us,and bought a used transmission jack at a auction/swap meet a few weeks later,for 50 bucks...he gave us a lot of credit for thinking of any way possible to avoid "working"...we were more worried about getting crushed by a heavy transmission..:rolleyes:..
 
At some point an investment in a transmission jack is a good idea if you work on your own stuff. I'm always finding uses for it, and since the operating range is much greater than your average car jack, it comes in handy on a lifted truck without using pieces of wood or other potentially dangerous methods. For that job, the $20 or so to rent one is money well spent in terms of saving aggravation and increasing safety.
 
Years ago I wouldn't have second thought it, just layed under there and dropped it, whatever happens :D I think the older I get the more I'm deciding to plan ahead, wait and find a more proper way, seen a lot of stupid things happen. But I still have my times, like right now, where I just wanna hurry up and get it done so I can go play tomorrow :haha:

Another question, all 4 of these. http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/s...982&make=Chevrolet&model=K5+Blazer&vi=1050501

Hope it pops up the same page I'm looking at, 4 seals. I think I want this one: Part # : 710928? Both have the same part number, I'm assuming the masterpro is a rebadged national. But more important, I probably wanna go with a dual lip I'm assuming.
 
I would use the bottle jack with blocks to hold up the tranny for when you undo the crossmember. I know you don't have a distributor, but there could be somethign that doesn't like maxing out the motor mounts. Its also nice to just jack the tranny up and down a bit when you are trying to re-align the cases.

You could always ask friends/family to borrow a floor jack. Then you just have to keep the weight balanced, not hold the whole thing. Getting it down is one thing, but holding it in the air with one hand while starting bolts with the other is hard and dangerous. You could also just find a helper.

You could try bolting some chains or ratchet straps to the frame to hold it. You could even use the straps to lift it by tightening, then holding the other side while you shorten the strap for the next lift.
 
IMO a second set of hands is the best option.

Buy somebody a case of beer and have them come help.



The tcases are such an odd shape that I think a jack with wood on top just makes everything more complicated. Holding the tcase up while using the other hand to work the jack, seems more dangerous to me.

Once you get the case slid on the output of the tranny, it's not going to drop or go anywhere.

I find it best to have two people. One guy picking it up, the other guy assisting with one arm, and spinning the front output of the tcase back and forth so the splines get lined up and it gets slid on easy and quick.

Then line up your bolt holes and reassemble.
 
I don't know how, but I did a 203 once without a jack. I put it on my chest and had my roommate roll me around on the creeper and start the bolts in the adapter. I bought a tranny jack the next time it came out though. If I'd dropped it on me it probably would have killed me lol.

You can pretty easily whip out a platform that pins in to a floor jack where the cup normally sits. That's what I would do (and what I should have done) if I had to do it again and I didn't have access to a tranny jack.

Whatever a Kia Sorento has in it (I think it's a 231...it's actually a conventional case), I was pretty easily able to bench press in place a few weeks ago helping a friend. We tried my tranny jack but it didn't fit right, so I got frustrated and just did it by hand. That was relatively low to the ground though, which can make it easier. A case gets real heavy when you're holding it up at arms length and you can't get your knees under it or anything.

Don't let the weight of the case sit unsupported on the output shaft of the tranny. It can very easily damage the output bushing.
 
the 208 and 241 are pretty easy to put in and out by yourself.

Though I am not a small guy at all. Same height as Adam twice the weight.

If his guns can put a 208 in anybody can do it :haha::haha::haha:

When putting back in I just put it on my chest get in position and bench press it. Carefully sliding it on. Not too hard to get it slid on nicely.

I do know a guy who rigs up a couple ropes with slip knots gets it all undone, and uses the ropes to get it down. Works really really well
 
I removed and installed the 241 in my K5 last year by hand. Really don't remember it being that big of an issue. I'm not a small guy but not Hulk Hogan by any means either.

The one thing I did do that makes it much easier is to buy one stud with a screwdrive slot in it. Loosely threaded it in to one of the bolt holes in the case so it made it really easy to get everything lined up. Once on the input shaft the weight of the case goes away, and the stud lets you line it up without "hanging" off the back.

I'm going to have to go look at it again, but why do you need to support the trans? The crossmember and tranny mount stay in place when you remove the t-case, right? Doesn't the case just hang off the back?
 
I watched a guy build a custom holder for a transfer case one time. No idea what case or why.
I doing some work on equipment in the shop.
He had a floor jack with a little round saddle on top. He pulled the saddle off and there was a hole there.
He bolted a frame made of plywood onto the jack. He glued the bolt head inside and used a nut to hold the frame on so that he did not have to hold the bolt.
It very roughly went around the transfer case. Higher on the sides than the ends.
He grabbed a couple of cans of Great Stuff foam. Sprayed them into the frame, and quickly jacked it up until it was pressing on the case with the foam oozing out around it.

After it hardened, he unbolted the case and lowered it down. Trimmed the foam and worked the case out leaving a perfect mold.

When he went back with it, that case was not going anywhere.

He had a couple of other frames leaning against the wall with imprints of cases in them.
I assume different cases.
 
This is by no means my first t-case removal. I've always done forms of what you guys suggest (keeping a jack on the trans for example). I'm just now w/o a real surface to work on, no jacks..etc.

I might wait, I pressure washed the t-case, trans, crossmember, I wanna see the leak again. I only saw leak the other week when I was out playing, but I was in 4low, pushing it hard, in hot weather. I noticed the breather on top of the t-case just goes to an inch or two of hose, and that's it. Might have/is just plugged, and pressure is building up. But a lot sure did come out. I put some in that day, drove it later, topped it off, haven't checked how much is in there now, but I haven't driven it too terribly much since.

but once that seal has fluid pressed out of it, it'll probably happen again? Plus I noticed after cleaning it all, I have a t-case to tranny bolt backed out a good 1/4"
 
If that seal is bad it will be filling the tcase and it will pour out the breather, and your transmission fluid level will be low.


If your tranny fluid isn't low, id say it isn't the input seal.
 
If that seal is bad it will be filling the tcase and it will pour out the breather, and your transmission fluid level will be low.


If your tranny fluid isn't low, id say it isn't the input seal.

I've read this. There are two though right, transmission output, and t-case input seal?

Tranny fluid is not low, I've been checking just for that reason, BUT, with it all being wet, I didn't however pay attention if the breather was pumping out fluid, dripping down, and dripping from where trans/t-case meet. :rolleyes: Why I didn't think of that, I don't know. But it's clean now, time to check :D
 
What about a couple of ratchet straps around the frame and under the tcase, with a piece of plywood between the straps and the case to give you a sliding surface?
 
I've read this. There are two though right, transmission output, and t-case input seal?

Tranny fluid is not low, I've been checking just for that reason, BUT, with it all being wet, I didn't however pay attention if the breather was pumping out fluid, dripping down, and dripping from where trans/t-case meet. :rolleyes: Why I didn't think of that, I don't know. But it's clean now, time to check :D

No, on a 4wd transmission there is no transmission output seal. Just transfercase input seal. If its leaking from where the tcase/adapter/transmission meet, its just a gasket or rtv. I actually prefer an anerobic sealant instead of rtv.
 
One truck a friend owned with a 700R4/NP208 leaked at the tranny to t-case joint and he put RTV on it twice,still leaked pretty badly after a few months...he got mad and made a gasket from a peice of rubber roofing and used 3M windo-weld yellow weatherstrip adhesive to glue it on the back of the tranny,and its still bone dry 2 years later!..
 

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