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Thinking of Painting the K5

m1ndless said:
Woah, that mopar link is awesome, I am going to be doing that, I have to do a little body work first though. I cannot decided on a color, I was thinking possible two tone, black and gray, the top and bottom parts charcoal gray with a 2ftish glash stripe along the sides? Or just alll charcoal gray..


Or should I do a bright blue, and call it the smurf-mobile?

EDIT kind of like this guys..

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Wow, I don`t think I`ve ever been referenced in a thread before:o
 
I have alot of time and patience, I dont know what I will end up doing. . I saw a sprayer at walmart for $40 bucks.
 
BIGBLAZE433 said:
Wow, I don`t think I`ve ever been referenced in a thread before:o
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:haha: I like that paint job, I think i am going to do something like that. Or I was thinking gray with two black stripes up the hood? And paint the camper black.

Do I need to do any special prepping with the camper before besides cleaning it really good?
 
Yeah, I rolled mine on, but if I could do it again, I would have loaded it into a wagner sprayer and been done. You don't do a roll on or spray can job for looks, it's more for corrosion prevention/ease of maintainance. Oh yeah, and ease of $$$$$$$ :D
 
m1ndless said:
I have alot of time and patience, I dont know what I will end up doing. . I saw a sprayer at walmart for $40 bucks.
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When you get a spray gun make sure you have the compressor to run it. If you have a small compressor stay away fron those HVLP sprayers with the cup on the top. They need a lot of CFM to work right.
The old style with the cup on the bottom will work with most any basic garage compressor. Find a gun rated for the CFM output of your compressor. Also be sure to use an air line drier/ water seperator and dont use an air line oiler. If water gets into the paint while you are spraying you will get orange peel bad.
 
I dont really care about how good it looks, I dont want it to be shiny, I just want to cover up all the spots where the paint was completly scraped off, and I want it to be a little different color.

I think rolling is the way to go, right? I am really patient, and broke, and rolling seems a little cheaper
 
m1ndless said:
I dont really care about how good it looks, I dont want it to be shiny, I just want to cover up all the spots where the paint was completly scraped off, and I want it to be a little different color.

I think rolling is the way to go, right? I am really patient, and broke, and rolling seems a little cheaper
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You get what you pay for, and prep is key to anything else.
 
76zimmer said:
You get what you pay for, and prep is key to anything else.
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Any tips? I know I sand down, with what grit? Do I sand all the way down to the metal? How many sheets of paper will I need?

I am looking for a hillbilly paint job, not something really nice... but I want it to last a few years before needing to be painted again.
 
Rustoleum and a foam brush

Yeah I'm gonna get my truck all the same color of blule this summer with the rustoleum technique described there. A friend down the street has a dump truck that just looks beautiful and that's what he does. My body is so crappy it ain't worth too much effort and I can't afford new panels. This should be the answer.
 
My body is in pretty good condition, I am replacing the hood, possible with a cowl hood, or just an oem replacment, not sure yet.

I decided on either charcoal gray or smoke gray, depending on how they look at the stroe, the charcoal gray almost looks blue to me.
 
I've painted a few cars with all these ideas, rustoleum, paint roller, spray gun, and even Earl Sheib and Miracle auto paint.

Please - DON'T USE A ROLLER!!!

If you want any kind of even remotely nice paint finish, spend the $400 to take it to Earl Sheib or Miracle. If you do all the prep yourself, it'll be just fine. Unless you have lots of paint experience, this is the best quality vs. expense you will find. I know because I've painted a lot of crappy cars.

This next advice is assuming you just want a cheap, durable, "looks cool from 20 feet away" kind iof paint job:

Get a cheap spray gun and a compressor (with a tank) and use that. You're index finger will thank you for sparing it from hours of pressing the little nozzle on the rattle can. :wink1:

Don't bother sanding it all the way to the metal. Just get any loose paint and old bondo off.

Don't use much if any body filler (bondo). Anything thicker than 1/8" will just crack and fall off in a few months. Dents aren't a big deal anyway with that kind paint job.

My personal preference of DIY paint is just plain primer gray. You can get high solids activated primer which is really durable and hardens like epoxy when dry.

Good luck and post pics!
 
Hmm, I might invest in a sprayer... but I dont have a compressor, but my neighbor would let me borrow his.
 
You'll need a compressor with a big enough tank to supply the sprayer. Depending on where you live and the laws they have regarding spray guns (CA is pretty tough to find good stuff) you can get low pressure-high volume spray guns or the good kind which are higher pressure-lower volume. The higher pressure guns are easier to spray smooth if you've never done it before, but it wastes more paint.

The catalyzed paint also tends to be more durable than the rustoleum type paint. They are more expensive though which is why I was suggesting at least looking into what a super-cheap paint job at a shop will cost before doing it yourself. Once you find a gun, compressor, paint, thinner, masking supplies, and a place to dump all the waste, it could easily be in the $400 range. Some good catalyzed paint is easily over $100/gallon in CA.

My first Earl Sheib paint job cost $99 back in 1995. I think they are a bit more expensive now, but it can be almost cheaper to do it that way depending on where you are located.

The rattle can method is probably the cheapest but the hardest to do. If you do it, use a flat paint instead of glossy. It'll hide problems much better.
 
Hmmm, I might go with a sprayer... I was thinking of painting my honda as well.

So dont use the rustoleum paint? Even with a sprayer? About how many gallons will it take do do my entire blazer?

Can I get away with rattlecanning the camper? Will that look okay? I was thinking of doing the body dark gray and the camper black...
 
It's all kinda relative, but if you are going to use Rustoleum for $$ reasons, I'd just rattle can it with FLAT paint. If you have a desire for anything glossy or even kinda nice, or if you're painting more than one car, use the gun and spend a few more dollars on catalyzed paint.

Also, gloss black is also the hardest color to paint nicely. It shows every flaw. But the fiberglass top is textured anyway so that's probably easy to do with 8-10 rattle cans, even if you use the glossy stuff.

I don't know about how much paint you'll need, but I used about 1 gallon to paint a 69 VW beetle. You might need more for a truck. If you use spray cans, plan on getting a few cases of them. :) I'd expect to spend an entire day removing parts you don't want painted and taping off everything else you can't remove.

Painting is kinda the easiest part (compared to the prep work), the prep is really time consuming and easy to screw it up.
 
Hmm, so rattlecan will be easier than rolling and tipping? I dont know if I want to invest in a sprayer for just 1-2 paint jobs... But rattlecans are kinda pricey, 4-5 bucks a can right?
 
I am almost considering not painting it, didnt realize how much money is involved, I might just save up and let someone else do it.

My paint right now is not in bad shape, and its white, so its not that hot in AZ...

 
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