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Thinking of welding the spider gears up front

xnoahx

1/2 ton status
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Would this be a really bad idea, i know that it would always be a full locked axle but if i just keep the hubs in the free lock then i shouldnt have any problems, right?? I do have a part time kit in my 203 so thats not an issue.

Check out my 73 K5 <a target="_blank" href=http://members.theglobe.com/xnoahx/73k5.htm>http://members.theglobe.com/xnoahx/73k5.htm</a>
 
From what I understand of spools, I think this would be a really bad idea. On a turn, the outer wheel turns more and faster than the inner tire. Since the steering is up front, this is highly exaggerated for the front wheels. Meaning, in a curve the outer front wheel turns quite a bit more compared to the inner wheel than is true for the rear axle. If you weld the front, I think you would have serious chirping or break and axle/gear.

But I could easily be wrong. I am just picturing the track my wheels (all 4) take when I go through water and then turn. I am picturing the track marks left on the ground. The inner rear wheel go the least distance followed by the outside rear then the inside front and the outside front goes the farthest.

Brian
Click to see <a target="_blank" href=http://tx85gmcguy.alloffroad.com> My 85 Jimmy </a>
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Yeah, you are right about the inside wheel and the outside wheel rotating at different speeds in turns but what i am wondering is would it be all right whem my locking hubs are "free." I raised the front end of my truck off the ground a while ago and and turned the yoke on the diff and both wheels only turned when the hubs were locked.

Check out my 73 K5 <a target="_blank" href=http://members.theglobe.com/xnoahx/73k5.htm>http://members.theglobe.com/xnoahx/73k5.htm</a>
 
I Have A Detroit Locker In The Front Of Mine.I Can Run With No Problems As Long As I Keep The Hubs Unlocked. With Them Locked I Cannot Turn Well On Pavement . I Have To Make Very Wide Turns Sometimes Even Off Road When The Hubs Are Locked .

A Big Hammer Can Fix Anything ..
 
That's why I don't have a front locker and I don't want one.

Tim
'84 Chevy K10, lifted, loud, fast, and 3/4 ton axles
 
Yes, once your hubs are unlocked it won't make a difference (ie on the street).

Pete

'83 K5, 350 TBI (ex 6.2), 700R4, NP208, Dana 60/14 bolt, 4.56s, Detroits, 3" lift, 15-39.5x15 TSLs
'97 Dodge 2500 4x4 CC LB Sport, Cummins 5 spd
 
The other post-ers are coorect, but "personnally" I think you asking for trouble.

Does anyone have a grinding disk I can borrow?
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3/4 in progress
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A detroit locker or any other no slip locker is going to handle the same as welding the spider gears or puting in a spool then i say save your $400 - $500 and weld it up use the money you saved and get some chromoly shafts extra u-joints and a twin stick shifter so you can disengage the front to make those tight turns.

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Or just leave it open and avoid the hassle, breakage, and steering problems (and give up some traction). It just doesn't make sense to me. Everyone says that only locked 10 bolts and Dana 44s break when locked. I can tell you for a fact that both are EXTREMELY strong, no matter what tires you have on them, when the're open. I've never seen any small block powered vehicle break one. But obviously you can do whatever you want.

Tim
'84 Chevy K10, lifted, loud, fast, and 3/4 ton axles
 
I second that 84, at the most I'd put in a limited slip.

Does anyone have a grinding disk I can borrow?
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3/4 in progress
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10s are not strong in the rocks---thats what I do---i need the extra traction, but cant afford a 60,,,so im gonna spool the front 10, get some extra shafts and take it easy--- mud and rocks are COMPLETLY different forums of wheeling---mud you need a healthy engine w/ HP and hit the gas and go...rocks---you dont need a "healthy" engine--you need torque, you can have a 6 banger in a k5, sm465 and low gears and a good driver and follow Mr. Watson--when diong the rocks there is going to be a point where only one tire is gripping and we all know what happens when you're open--but when you locked that one tire is going to get you out..you dont get to pick which tire is going to get the grip all the time so lock the front and back and its a wham bam thank you mam and your out

Hut in the well is goin on in here?

sun desert offroad <a target="_blank" href=http://4x4.alloffroad.com>4x4.alloffroad.com</a>
 
With a 10B it almost makes more sense to weld it up. If you don't like the way it handels then just go get another carrier. Even if you have regeared it doesn't matter because they use the same one from 2.73-4.88, and since its just the front axle the gear set up doesn't need to be perfect, ie a great time to learn. If you do it I would strongly suggest doing a cross over steering. Twin stick &amp; upgraded shafts would be nice, too.

Jim '80 GMC & '73 Blazer
Tread Lightly!
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and i have a D44, not a 10B

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Right, but you have a mini-spool, too. Same idea, if you don't like it you can "restore it to normal"
Crap, that was another thread, sorry! What I meant to say was you could get a mini-spool. Uh-yeah.

Jim '80 GMC &amp; '73 Blazer
Tread Lightly!
&lt;a target="_blank" href=http://www.gmck5.rockcrawler.com&gt;www.gmck5.rockcrawler.com&lt;/a&gt;<P ID="edit"><FONT class="small">Edited by bigjbear on 08/12/01 12:32 AM.</FONT></P>
 
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