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This is how I made my rock sliders

pblaze725

build bash rebuild
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I bought a piece of 2"x4"x .120" tube steel.

I ran a builders string where I plan to cut. I set straight with the edge of the bottom of the door opening.
rock sliders 009.jpg

:grind: the rear...
rock sliders 008.jpg

:grind: the front...

rock sliders 007.jpg

:grind: under the door...


rock sliders 015.jpg

I :grind: across the back side of the rocker in a (not so straight) line from the bottom of the body mounts...
rock sliders 006.jpg

rock sliders 009.jpg

rock sliders 008.jpg

rock sliders 007.jpg

rock sliders 015.jpg

rock sliders 006.jpg
 
Why did you choose to cut out the back side first? I like the chalk line method.
 
Body mounted rock slider

:weld: the front...
rock sliders 011.jpg

:weld:the back

rock sliders 010.jpg


:weld:the panel
rock sliders 004.jpg


:weld: the door
rock sliders 005.jpg

rock sliders 011.jpg

rock sliders 010.jpg

rock sliders 004.jpg

rock sliders 005.jpg
 
...Then I got rained out...

I threw on some black so it don't rust.
rock sliders 012.jpg

My welds look like rat poop but they are strong.
rock sliders 013.jpg


A better pic of the door.
rock sliders 014.jpg

I'm not finished yet. It started raining.

I'm going to test them out next weekend....

rock sliders 012.jpg

rock sliders 013.jpg

rock sliders 014.jpg
 
So you didn't mount them to the frame at all, just to the body? Hmmmm interesting.
 
thats almost exactly the way we did daves sliders on the Iron Maiden:waytogo:
 
I take my fenders off when working on the truck. What if you need to swap them due to damage? I personally would not weld the fenders. Other than that, nice job.
 
Why did you choose to cut out the back side first? I like the chalk line method.

I cut the front side first. It is just hanging by a thread in the pic.

So you didn't mount them to the frame at all, just to the body? Hmmmm interesting.
No,I welded it to the body only.

I take my fenders off when working on the truck. What if you need to swap them due to damage? I personally would not weld the fenders. Other than that, nice job.
:grind::haha: I'll say you told me so...:waytogo:
 
I'm going to take them out on Veterans Day weekend to Bronco Peak trail and beat the crap out of them. We'll see how they hold up.

I didn't want to connect the body to the frame or restrict any movement/flexing between them. I considered using poly bushings but decided not to.

This is way stronger than what it was before.
 
Pretty sure you will have no issues with them jsut being body mounted. they look sweet.


I wish i could get away with 2x4 since it is so much cheaper but i need at least 2x6 since i want to cut right below the lower door hinge.
 
I did my old ones the same way...

1004Moab_pic.jpg


Landed on em hard many times, not a single issue. They spread the load and the impact over such a large area...

I didn't weld to my front fenders though. Sure I could grind it for fender removal, but that doesn't mean i want to. The way I had my fronts trimmed it would only have added about 3" of weld anyways.
 
That's what Mnorby said.
At the metal supplier there was a section of cutoff's. I found it in that section for a lower price.
 
I did mine the same way, but I cut all the way so the tube was flush with the floorboards (had to cut a few inches off the bottom of the doors which were smashed anyway). Mine are just welded to the body, but I took some 2x2x.120 and put in four supports total. I cut open the beam that connects the firewall body mount and the A pillar and reworked it with the 2x2. I ran the supports to the vertical plate that's approximately between your feet and runs from the firewall back to beginning of the bed.

I used 2x5x.188 for my slider tubes. The B pillar is almost 5" wide if you cut it flush to the floorboards, the A pillar is probably 4-4.5" wide there. I welded the open end of the pillars to the tube where they intersect. The tube can put very little bending moment on the pillars with the geometry there, and the floorboard is loaded in shear (especially with the 2x2 supports that I welded to the floor) if you were to push the slider tube inward toward the frame rail. And like I said, pushing upward on the outer or inner edge has very little bending moment because the pillars are so wide.

I don't see it being necessary to go to the frame in this case. I have intentionally abused the hell out of my sliders in the rocks with no issues. I have frequently dropped a 40" off a rock and slammed down on the center of the slider tube, hanging both tires on that side of the truck in the air. While hanging there on a rock, I can open and close the door with no issues.

This was before I was finished welding obviously. I kind of guessed as to how I'll be mounting racing seats eventually when I do a cage and tried to make the center supports convenient for that, but I didn't feel like interfering with the seats in there now.
IMG_1378.jpg

IMG_1375.jpg


I had some rust I cut out from the sills, this was before I filled in with 16 gauge.
IMG_1376.jpg
 
after we did the ones on the maiden we got out the high lift and jacked one side of the truck off the ground from the center of the door opening. their real stout just to the body that way:waytogo:
 
X2

I know it's a different vehicle but I built some sliders into the rocker like that on an S10 Blazer without tying into the frame. Dropped them HARD on some rocks many times and they never moved. Doors always opened/closed no problem after.
 
I like those pics. :waytogo:

I plan to test out the highlift when I get done welding. Between the rain, and daylight "savings" I don't have much time lately.
 
I take my fenders off when working on the truck. What if you need to swap them due to damage? I personally would not weld the fenders. Other than that, nice job.

Yep, you told me so...:doah:


:grind::weld: I got bigger tires & I need more room.:saweet:
 
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