This was weird

[goldwing2000]

Silicone grease.

If you're going to be doing flame cutting and/or welding when you're replacing that spring bracket, be sure you drop your tank. Could get ugly, otherwise.

I would use grade 8 bolts instead of welding, though. That will maintain your frame integrity.

 

[Chevy305]

So now that I have a new spring hanger, thanks to LMC Truck, what is the best way to cut the rivets? Angle grinder them off, or drill them out?

 

[wildmouse216]

Center punch, small pilot hole, hole the same size as rivet. You don't want to waller that hole out in the frame any more than you have to. Use Grade 8 bolts ,don't weld.

 

[goldwing2000]

What I would do/have done:

~Grind/torch the heads off. Since it's near the gas tank, I'd use a grinder over a torch.
~Remove spring hanger with BFH
~Grind rivets flat to frame
~Knock rivets through frame with flat punch (preferably on an air hammer)
Don't use a pointed punch or you will spread out the metal and be forced to drill it out.

Don't forget to buy your bolts before you start!

 

[Chevy305]

Well, it took some time but I finally got the truck back together. It looks like it sits about an inch taller because the suspention isn't saging anymore. But man that gas tank is a BITCH! Could have saved me an entire day if I didn't have to drop it out. Mainly because the heat shield and exhaust system got in the way. I am happy there are no squeaks from the bushings. Also the truck rides a lot better.
Although I think that I might be getting a little bit of vibration in the drivetrain. The pinion is a near strait line with the drive shaft. So I will grease up the u-joints and get back to you.

 

[Hermy13]

Ive seen similar problems with the driveshaft pulling out like this. We were leaving school one day at a good rate of speed when someones mom cut us off we locked up the brakes on the kids old ford and the axle wrap was so bad driveshaft pulled right out of the xfer case

 

[goldwing2000]

The pinion is a near strait line with the drive shaft.

That could be your problem right there. For optimum results, the pinion angle should be the same as the angle up at the t-case.

 

[Blue85]

The springs must have been cracked and the high braking force finally pulled them loose. That would have let the rear axle slide back as far as the shackles would let it, popping the driveshaft out of the T-case.

With the driveshaft free, I guess you would be lucky to have the rear brakes locked up because it would prevent the shaft from thrashing the underside of the truck so much.

 

[Chevy305]

That could be your problem right there. For optimum results, the pinion angle should be the same as the angle up at the t-case.

Yeah so thats what it is. The vibration is hardly noticable. But I'll loosen the u-bolts and change that.

 

[Pookster]

I have seen this happen, out on the trail. You brake hard, your leaf springs straighten out, on a downhill.... your drive shaft pop out.

Get the proper sized shaft for your application!

 

[Chevy305]

I thought I didn't need a longer drive shaft for a 4in lift

 

[midnitewarya]

You really don't need the longer shaft, under normal driving conditions. But in your case, I would go ahead and get the longer shaft. Hopefully with your new springs (good job btw) it won't happen again, but just in case, you should get one. With 4" springs, there is more flex that can allow the spring to straighten out and let the driveshaft pop loose.

Plus, who knows what kind of damage was done to it when it popped loose.