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Those of YOU with headers

wilpetty

1/2 ton status
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Oct 14, 2012
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Location
Arlington, Tx
What do you do with the A"c Brackets? Also I want to use the Blue sprark plug wire W/O the long plugs, I just want the all of them short 90* plugs.....Pots pics of the results....I got flowtechs...Please post the cheapest exhaust wraps...
 
youre running into the same issues i did so luckily i had these pics on my phone. yep use the extended bolt with a sleeve - depending on how your front tube is configured you may be able to use both front long bolts. originally for my '86 k5 i was going to use a set of dynomax headers but went for edelbrock ones instead #68283 (which are actually made for k10). the dynomaxs wouldve required trimming the rear part of the ac bracket. for spark plug wires, it was easier to route them under the manifolds like the factory did. all 90 degs should be ok but if you do get a couple of straight boots (that comes in boxed sets), you can probably use them on #2 and #3 cylinder i think...

blazerheaders1_zpsdbcc84c0.jpg


blazerheaders2_zps0a2d2392.jpg


blazerheaders3_zpsde8b9e29.jpg
 
Thanks, unfortunately I am pretty sure I will have to trim or cut my A/C bracket to make it work...Yes I did get 2 straight boots, and I will use those on #s 2 and 3. If you know the dimensions of the sleeve you used please let me know
 
Now that I can see through the pics posted, I believe I did trim off the rear tab for the second bolt, using only the front one. Or has always worked fine like that. This was of course on my '86 setup.
 
Here was my solution. Get long grade 8 bolt, use factory sleeve and trim up A/C bracket but left all the holes.



 
Great solutions guys. 1 problem I have is that it did not have a factory sleeve like you have. I will just find something that will work. With the other bracket that goes on the same bolt before the a/c bracket, I can tell how long to make the sleeve(it makes sense in my head). I am going to cut it just like badmix. For header wrap, what can I use? pep boys wanted like 50 bucks for a roll and that's not happenin
 
You can use a piece of tubing rather than the 'factory' sleeve. Mine looks exactly like badmix's. I just measured the thickness of the manifold at the first bolt, subtract the header flange thickness, and the remainder is the length of tubing necessary. I had to clearance the spacer tube for the header tube, so I welded it all together once I was sure it was right. This may not be necessary for you depending on your equipment, but it worked for me.
 
I know mine wasn't using a sleeve, as some are saying, it was a stud bolt of some kind.. Tightened to the header flange, but then had the extended part sticking out, I believe I put a nut on the back side of the threads, installed the bracket, then another nut holding it in place...
 
I know mine wasn't using a sleeve, as some are saying, it was a stud bolt of some kind.. Tightened to the header flange, but then had the extended part sticking out, I believe I put a nut on the back side of the threads, installed the bracket, then another nut holding it in place...

I believe I have the same bolt you have. Well I am going to cut the bracket so it will fit and then the motor will be nearly ready to go back in:D
 

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