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Those Who Have Done Hydro 465 Swap ?

az ranger

az ranger

1/2 ton status
Joined
May 9, 2004
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Location
Safford AZ
Can I Use Still Use My Auto Steering Column And Just Keep It Park Or Nutrual So The Nutrual Safty Swith Will Work And Put In Reverse For Back Up Lights At Least Temporally Untill I Can Change Over To Manual Column.
Also
Do I Have To Take Whole Pedal Assembly From Donor Truck Or Can I Just Add Clutch And Brake Pedal To Existing Pedal Assembly.

Its An 88 Jimmy And Will Be Full Hydro Clutch
Donor Truck Is 87 2wd I Ton
 
you can just take the cluch brackit off, like in the tech write up here

a member was doing the swap and ran into problems with the brake plunger not lining with the doner brake pedel, so you might want to check.

and i think you could eather jump the nutral safty wires or wire it to the cluch switch.
 
I jumped the neutral start/clutch lockout switch, it pays to be able to move the truck via the starter, believe me. :)

IIRC, the auto trans or manual uses similar backup wiring, and you can just disconnect the wiring connectors and add/run the right end to the manual trans. I don't recall having to cut/splice any wires to run the reverse lights, but also not really sure if my harness was manual or auto trans originally.
 
its way easier to remove and install a full hydro clutch pedal setup than it would be to just remove the clutch pedal bracket. i didnt have any problems lining mine up on my truck, or Tim's when i installed the pedals.
 
I took the whole pedal bracket (brake and clutch) out of the donor truck. I wanted the small brake pedal but it was a trick trying to get that plate behind the steering column if you dont remove the column.
 
beater_k20 said:
its way easier to remove and install a full hydro clutch pedal setup than it would be to just remove the clutch pedal bracket. i didnt have any problems lining mine up on my truck, or Tim's when i installed the pedals.
Click to expand...

yeah i wouldent have said it, except for the fact a member doing the swap said it wouldn't line up.

check first if not you gotta cut..
 
darkshadow said:
yeah i wouldent have said it, except for the fact a member doing the swap said it wouldn't line up.

check first if not you gotta cut..
Click to expand...

his problem was he had the mastercylinder way to high.

you can leave the auto column, the nuetral safety switch needs to be plugged in. for the reverse lights, there is a wire that the plug from the switch on the column plugs into that runs threw the firewall and down to the tranny. this is a factory part.

when i did my swap i put in a manual column, instead of trying to rewire/jump/splice for the nuetral safety switch, i plugged it in, making sure its in park and zip tied it way up under the dash out of sight. its been working great for 2 months.
 
I kept my auto column just the way it was.I just took the shifter off and keep it in park to start it,and put it in drive when I park it (just in case I get a stupid thief, hee.. hee..)
 
will I be able to bolt the pedal assembly up with out dropping down the steering column. eventually I plan to swap the manual column but I have been working on this swap for way too long and I just want to get it rolling again before its to hot to drive it thanks
 
you need to pull the 2 nuts that hold the column to the dash, the pedal brackets bolts there also. but you should be able to get it in over the column with out completely removing it.
 
Well you can do it with the column up in place but just watch all the hanging or wires in the area and ...If I did it again I would STILL drop the column , much easier in the long run...(or it will take the better part of your sanity and temper to get it in without dropping the column..) Jm2c :D

Went from this ..
Mvc_019s.jpg


To this..I only had to cut one wire the rest just unplugged.
Mvc_020s_001.jpg
 
It did take the better part of my sanity and I learned some new cuss words and that was just taking the original brake pedal assembly out. I didnt have time today to put new assebly in. it looks like I will have to take the pedals off and put them back on when I get the assembly in place. and I do have the column drooped.

what about the clutch support rod is it a must have. I cant remember were it bolted to the donor truck.
 
I think the clutch support rods hold the studs that the clutch master cylinder bolts on to. so yes, you have to keep them.
 
yes keep those rods, if you don't the master cylinder may bend the firewall, depends on how much force is on it.

your 88 should have dimples on the firewall to the upper left hand corner of the fuse box on the engine side of the firewall. if not, i have measurments on where they are located, just let me know and i will find and post them.
 
dyeager535 said:
I jumped the neutral start/clutch lockout switch, it pays to be able to move the truck via the starter, believe me. :)
Click to expand...

yup sure does. Only way I was able to drive over 1,000 mile home when my slave cylinder's rod snapped so I no longer had a clutch!
 
big83chevy4x4 said:
your 88 should have dimples on the firewall to the upper left hand corner of the fuse box on the engine side of the firewall. if not, i have measurments on where they are located, just let me know and i will find and post them.
Click to expand...

Would a 84 have the same dimples for the master cylinder?? i am also doing a hydro 465 swap and was wondering about that.
 
the dimples are there for mine although I am confused becuase there are four dimples in that location I thought there would only be two for the master cylindar bolt holes.
 
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