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Those with 52" and 56" question....

BozoWise

BozoWise

1/2 ton status
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Mar 28, 2002
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Lubbock, TX
What drivelines are you guys running with your 52" and 56" springs? I am about to get some new drivelines and would like a poll on what has worked for those of you running these springs. Thanks a search brought up tons of info on the swaps and helped me a bunch, but not many talk about what they did with their drivelines.

Swapping in the 205 has left my rear short but I think with the new DIY4x4 flip and switch I might be able to running a standard u joint shaft. This is a trail only rig. I am waiting on a friend to return my angle gauge so I can start to get some measurements.
 
Either HAD or Tom's will be building mine. Just not sure what I am going to do. Looking for others who have already gone down this path.
 
i would chime in and have some kind of snappy answer...but...wouldnt it be wise to measure the driveshaft angles first...and then decide what to do with the drivelines?

thats what i plan to do with my 63's and diy flip.

although i'd hate tp buy a cv for my 208 and then later switch to fixed yoke...i guess move it out of the shop in FWD.

ryan
 
My rear shaft is a custom shaft from a local shop that previous owner had custom built when it had 12" lift - it works fine with the reversed 56's

The front is a HAD custom. Jesse was great to work with. I also talked with Tom, and he was great and helpful but Jesse seemed more willing to listen to what I wanted.
 
MTMike said:
My rear shaft is a custom shaft from a local shop that previous owner had custom built when it had 12" lift - it works fine with the reversed 56's

The front is a HAD custom. Jesse was great to work with. I also talked with Tom, and he was great and helpful but Jesse seemed more willing to listen to what I wanted.
Click to expand...

That is just the type of info I need Mike, did you shim your pinion at all with the non-cv shaft? Eyeball measurements looks pretty good w/ the reversed 56" and diy4x4 swapped sides on 6" shackels.
 
Because my is trail only, I just went to the junk yard and got just to make a drive shaft. The front is square. Both with CV joints. The only time you feel it around 45 mph.
 
BozoWise said:
That is just the type of info I need Mike, did you shim your pinion at all with the non-cv shaft? Eyeball measurements looks pretty good w/ the reversed 56" and diy4x4 swapped sides on 6" shackels.
Click to expand...

I didn't shim either axle as I wanted to try without first. Unless the previous owner re-mounted the spring mounts, there's no mods to either pinion angle. So far so good. The truck so rarely is driven on the street it's not even worth worrying about unless I have problems on the trail.
 
I'm running a homemade rear flip and 52's/56's (56's run backwards). i have a 700r4/klune/205 and my driveshaft angles are excellent. I haven't actually measured them, but i'm running 1350 singles at each end of square tube shafts. front and rear are the same length.

you can almost see the shaft angles in this pic...

Most of the AustinK5 ( http://austink5.net/ ) guys are running the 52/56 combo.
 
My transfer case rear output is sitting at 0 degrees (perpendicular to ground) the rear pinion input is clocked upwards at a 12 degree angle. Length of rear shaft at rest is 45 1/2" from center yoke on output to center yoke on input.

Front output on transfer case is also sitting at 0 degress and the front pinion input is clocked upwards at a 4 degree angle. Length of front shaft at rest is 28 1/2" from cv plate to center of input yoke.
 
if you t-case is level and your pinion is clocked up you need a CV shaft
i second the jesse advice
he is a awsome guy, call him up tell him what you got and he will hook you up
 
I have HAD shafts front and rear. 1350 CV's and the t-case ends and 1410's at the diff ends. .375 wall tube. 12" slip. With the Gen1 Doubler, my rear shaft is only like 33" long IIRC. The front one is longer by 10" or so. Had to cut and make new perches on the 14b. The 60 is fine with no shims. Long as hell driveshaft helps alot. :D
shaft2.jpg

shaft1.jpg

shaft3.jpg

:D
 
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Talked with HAD today and they said $1036.00 for front a rear shaft. 1350 joints cv front and rear. New 1350 yoke for Dana 60 and the 1350 will bolt to the factory 205 front output. New rear output for the 205 to accept the other 1350 cv and I use my stock 1350 strap style on the rear.

I am going to talk with Tom's and see his options also.
 
I'm running a stock front one lengthened to 40" collapsed. I'd rather spend the money spent on a driveshaft on a high pinion front axle... so then I don't need the expensive driveshaft.
 
mikey_d05 said:
alskjfalwhglnbvalwe what?
Click to expand...

I have a really long front driveshaft considering I have no doubler. The closest the yoke centerline gets to my transfer case is 41".

Instead of spending $500 on a long slip modified 1350 CV driveshaft I'd rather spend the money on a high pinion front axle and run either a stock CV or a non-CV shaft. We live in a world of less is more when it comes to lift so all you have to worry about is the angle at full droop and having enough spline.
 
Either that got revised or I am way too tired to be alive, sorry about that....I understand now.
 
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