start with an older style gm alternator as these are the easiest to convert.
First thing you do is remove the bolts that hold the case together. then seperate the two halfs. i had to use a deadblow and tap on the case till it came apart.
you will not mod this side so just set it aside for now.
this is the half where we will do the mods
We will be removing: top right is the capacitor, the top center and upper left is the exciter diode and components and the lower screw we will remove the plastic insulation.
I removed the copper winding
I removed the capicator and exciter diode and its components
i removed the insulation from the screw
here is what you end up with
then you slide the brushes back in the holder and i put a very small drill bit in there to keep them in place whal i put it back together
after the ase is reassembled then you can remove the bit and the brushes will contact the shaft
mounted.
You need a master on/off switch for the welder. Since the rotor can draw 4 or 5 Amps easily, a relay is in order. The system I came up with used an 'accessory' supply through a switch. That switch activated a relay that let 12V from the battery go directly to the rotor.
Now for the business end... Get two lengths of welding cable with ring terminals at one end. Bolt on one ring terminal to the + output of the welder. On the back of the new welder, there is a threaded hole. Use this to bolt on the other ring terminal.
we made up some quick connect leads
made a bracket to hold the truck side leads.
we welded the bracket to the core support
now you just plug the leads in and weld. remember to reverse polarity if welding on your own rig
First thing you do is remove the bolts that hold the case together. then seperate the two halfs. i had to use a deadblow and tap on the case till it came apart.
you will not mod this side so just set it aside for now.
this is the half where we will do the mods
We will be removing: top right is the capacitor, the top center and upper left is the exciter diode and components and the lower screw we will remove the plastic insulation.
I removed the copper winding
I removed the capicator and exciter diode and its components
i removed the insulation from the screw
here is what you end up with
then you slide the brushes back in the holder and i put a very small drill bit in there to keep them in place whal i put it back together
after the ase is reassembled then you can remove the bit and the brushes will contact the shaft
mounted.
You need a master on/off switch for the welder. Since the rotor can draw 4 or 5 Amps easily, a relay is in order. The system I came up with used an 'accessory' supply through a switch. That switch activated a relay that let 12V from the battery go directly to the rotor.
Now for the business end... Get two lengths of welding cable with ring terminals at one end. Bolt on one ring terminal to the + output of the welder. On the back of the new welder, there is a threaded hole. Use this to bolt on the other ring terminal.
we made up some quick connect leads
made a bracket to hold the truck side leads.
we welded the bracket to the core support
now you just plug the leads in and weld. remember to reverse polarity if welding on your own rig
your gonna need that the next time we hit the trails for me 
